Hi,

I'm about to install rear camber shims. I figured I'd do at least some initial toe adjustment myself. I have done it before on my earlier P85+ using strings, but now I had bought a chinese laser to make it easier.

I figured I'd measure my current setup first, before installing the shims.

First I measured camber with water level, it's pretty easy. I have about -1.5 degrees per side, with car in Low.

Then the toe. Here's my top notch laser setup:



The laser is this one from aliexpress:


Then I measured the beam distance to the front wheel cap, and also to the rear wheel cap. Front right was 120mm, front left 115mm, rear 78mm+20mm=98mm.



Now there was an issue that I did not know how much more inside the front wheel is. It obviously is a bit. Tesla claims that track width is 1690mm both front and rear, but even then there is the issue that front wheels have offset of 45mm and rear only 40mm.. Track width is measured to the middle of the wheel, so offset difference of 5mm would mean that the front hubs would need to be 5mm OUTER than the rear, which doesn't make sense and must be incorrect. Edit: Turns out offset is 45mm rear and 40mm front, so with same track width front hub would be 5mm inwards which does make more sense.

This site lists 1662-1700mm for the front:

Still not very helpful that gives a hint that there is some "tolerance" in the front track..

I decided to add marks to front and back of car so I could accurately measure toe without relying on the front hub location.



The boxes at rear are positioned exactly between the laser lines, and then there's plywood plates at front where I marked the laser location with a pen.

Distance between laser beams at front = 212.5cm
Distance between laser beams at rear = 210.0cm
Distance from plywood to the box = 645cm

Then it's just math. angle = atan( ( 212.5-210) / 645 ) = 0.222 degrees of total toe out! Isn't rear supposed to be toe in? Doh.

Anyway, now that I know the actual toe, I can use that to calculate how much more inside the front hubs are. Wheelbase is 2960mm. 0.222 degrees at 2960mm distance is 11.5mm. My measurements were 120mm+115mm-98mm-98mm = 39mm, from which we deduct 11.5mm = 27.5mm. That would be 13.75mm per side. Round that to 14mm and we have 1690mm-28mm=1662mm which was the number mentioned in car.info link above..

Toe per side calculated from my original measurements:

Left 115mm: atan( ( 115 - 14 - 98) / 2960) = 0.058 degrees
Right 120mm: atan( ( 120 - 14 - 98) / 2960) = 0.155 degrees

Total now becomes 0.212 degrees, slight deviation from the original measured 0.222 but close enough and very easy to measure from the front hubs.

But still it's toe out, doh.

I know, silly right?

But why do i want a Plaid, so i can melt my face off, go to drag race strip, impress my friends, etc. ?

I've done the research. And not bragging, but $ is there. But can i put $ elsewhere? Sure.

Help me go through some other set of reasonings to talk me into buying the MX (Long Range).

Situation: Family of 4, kids grown up, 18 and 19 ages. Don't need >5 seats. Fold down is a bonus.

So, comes down to 0-60 between 3.8 and 2.5 secs.

2.5 ! That i'm reading is 1G pull ! Damn...

I do like that litle bit of extra "range" on the Long Range model.

Why do i want a Plaid ???!!!

I hate to buy MX and get a buyer's remorse.

About a year ago we were supposed to get airbag push for horn via software update… any news on this?

Thanks
JC

I recently had my model y vinyl wrapped and now the front parking sensors are no longer working. The back sensors still work.

From looking online, some people are saying to cut around the front sensors on the bumper. What exactly does that mean? Do I leave the vinyl on inside of the circle, and just trace around the outer edge of the circle?

It's strange how some people have their car wrapped and don't have any issues, and some do.

Marco found a permit titled "Tesla EVC -1604" in San Antonio at the far west side of town. The address is 7010 W Loop 1604 N, San Antonio, TX 78254.





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@corywright @Big Earl @Chuq

Hi All,

Hopefully this thread can become sticky and be a place for autocross discussion with the Tesla Model 3. My question - Has anyone seen any of the rules for the SCCA EV-X class? I have seen a site (can't find it right now of course) that suggested the PAX for EV-X was only slightly higher (I think 2-4 thousandths) over SS (where the car is classed). I have emailed the SCCA and have heard nothing about the EV-X class...Anyone know anything?

For the international readers
The Netherlands is one of the leaders as it comes to installing public charging infrastructure.

Currently there are about 3600 public charging stations installed. 90% of them deliver 11kW (8 hour for a 85kWh Model S) of power (3-phase 16A) on two outlets.

The Dutch government has various incentives for EVs and charging infrastructure.

Charging at these stations can be done using a RFID card which can be acquired at almost all utility companies here. Down here a couple of links where you can get these RFID cards:
* Essent (Company from German RWE)
* Nuon (Energy Company)
* Blue Corner (Belgium)
* Laadpas.com (Comparison between companies)
* ZE Rijden.nl

A overview of all charging locations can be found at Oplaadpalen.nl which also has charging stations in Belgium.

Some of these stations are also mentioned on OpenChargeMap.org and ChargeMap.com

The rest of this topic will probably be in Dutch, but feel free to ask questions in English! Should you also a foreigner want to come to NL or BE and want to find out how to charge, ASK!

Note: All charging stations have a Type 2 socket!

FAQ (EN)
Q: What cables or socket are used on the Charging Stations?
A: All charging stations have a Type 2 socket and do NOT have fixed cables. So bring your own Type 2 cable!

Q: Can I charge a free charging stations without a RFID card?
A: No, although these stations are free, they still require a RFID card to allow you access

Q: Can I charge with a German card?
A: Roaming is being worked on. It might be that RFID cars from RWE work in the Netherlands, but it's not guaranteed.

For the Dutch and Belgian readers
Nu het steeds drukker wordt in de andere topics is het wel zo verstandig om discussies over publiek opladen hier te houden.

FAQ (NL)
V: Welke kabels heb ik nodig om publiek te laden?
A: Alle publieke laadpalen hebben een Type 2 socket. Voor een Model S heb je dan ook een Type 2 laadkabel nodig die te koop is op laadkabelwinkel.nl. De UMC van Tesla gebruik je NIET bij publiek laden.

V: Welke pas heb ik nodig?
A: Zie het lijstje hier boven. Vragen of toevoegingen? Post ze hier onder!

V: Hoe weet ik of een laadpaal betrouwbaar is?
A: Kijk altijd eerst op bijv Oplaadpalen.nl of er reviews of foto's zijn van de betreffende laadpaal. Plaats uiteraard ook eigen reviews en foto's om andere te helpen!

Wat hier verder te bespreken:
* Welke palen werken?
* Waar vind ik palen?
* Welke pas heb ik nodig?
* Welke kabels heb ik nodig?

22OCT21 Update: We are anticipating the release of v10.3 after midnight (PDT) tonight! Please keep your data current in the attached tracking spreadsheet ("S/S"). Please post your thoughts on v10.3, as either a new user, or one coming from v10.2. What improvements (or setbacks) have you noticed, etc.?
Thank you!

Link to the spread sheet.

Original post :

Hello all! For those of you who "pushed" the Beta request button, and have been driving like a granny for nearly two weeks now, I've created this thread to capture data around the actual downloads (starting on 10/10, hopefully). Here's what we need to know:

Starting at Midnight on 10/8, please report the following:

1. When did you "push the button," to start your safety score rating?
2. How many miles have you driven since "pushing 'da button"?
3. What is your safety score?
4. Did you receive the beta software? If so, when?

Okay, that's the key data, but of course, we want to hear your feedback on the actual FSD beta driving experience as well - after downloading and trying it out, of course!

Until then (Midnight on 10/10), we can use this thread for "predictions"! For example,

1. Will there be a minimum number of miles driven to qualify?
2. How many do we expect will get the beta on the first day?
3. Will you be pissed if you don't get it in the first week?
4. Will anyone get the beta by Saturday morning, 10/9, or will Elon push it "two weeks" to the right?

So, let us begin! My thoughts:

1. Yes, but not sure how many miles/week that may be.... 100?
2. Zero; see #4
3. Probably, after two weeks of not enjoying my Plaid!
4. 50-50, at best.

And your thoughts?

@2021plaid @Phlier @WilliamG
@diplomat33

Hi all

I recently had a wall connector gen 3 installed as part of a larger project (solar install).

My wall connector does not glow green and it will not charge the car. When I tried to connect it to the app , I got to the step where you hold the button to cause the green lights to turn on, and nothing happened. I then just tried plugging the car in, even though I didn’t add the product in the Tesla app, and the app says error no power.

I’m not sure if that error is simply because the product hasn’t been added to the app yet, or if it’s an accurate diagnosis.

Either way I’m calling the installer back today to have them try and diagnose/fix. If anyone here has clues or tips I will take them. Thank you!

OrthoSurg said:

TSLA Frankfurt is -4% Dont look at this ticker it should be the other way around :X

View attachment 772087

Click to expand...

Probably because of Good old Russian news. Russia to recognize the independence of Donetsk and Lugansk.
Russian index down 10.5%, check here

I don't do that many long journeys with the Satnav but am I getting forgetful or has something changed at some point?
Did a long motorway/dual carriage way journey at the weekend and the car was constantly telling me to "keep right" when passing slip roads. I did not need to "keep right" I just needed to not move left and take the exit.

If the road is splitting and the left most lane(s) are going a different way to me then this makes perfect sense and is a useful direction, even though the car seems to know what lane I am in.
BUT
if like the vast majority of exits the existing carriageways are going to continue on and the exit requires me to move over to a dedicated exit slip road then this instruction is completely superfluous and rather annoying.
There is no other equivalent I am aware of. The car does not tell me to carry straight on every time I pass a side road or say "not this one" for every exit before mine on a roundabout So why is it effectively telling me to not take the next exit every time an exit approaches on the motorway?

First drive today using FSD since getting the Holiday Update 2023.44.30.6. Unfortunately a few minutes into using FSD I got the red steering wheel, screaming alarm, and the error message "Cabin Camera Unavailable." Now I can no longer use FSD. I have done a restart by holding down the scroll wheels on the yoke and also let it sit and walked away for a couple of hours so I assume it powered down. AutoSteer works fine. Also the cabin camera works from the phone app. According to the text on the Autopilot settings page, I do not have any FSD strikes. Any ideas how to reset FSD? Anyone have a magical combo of button presses and special dance moves that needs to be performed?

FSD sitting at $8K. Enough for you to jump?

Another supercharger coming to

2828 El Centro Rd.
Sacramento, CA 95833



@corywright

I recently updated to 2024.8.4 on my 2020 Model Y with front USB port. I have used the same Samsung SSD T5 for years. I noticed that the TeslaCam icon showed a red X so I unplugged and deleted the files via my laptop. Now, when I plug the USB back in nothing happens. The red X remains and under Safety the options are grayed out. I tried to plug in a basic USB stick and still nothing happened. Anyone else?

Hello everyone, I hope you are doing well,

After the cancellation of the 500+ range Model S Plaid+, I have been seeing a big debate of Teslas or EVs in general regarding 500 miles worth of range on Twitter. The main argument I am seeing is that most people will want to stop as 500 miles of driving in one day is a lot. During that stop, they will be able to supercharge, eat, etc... However, the other argument that I have been reading is having the convenience of 500 miles of range as an option whether used or not.

My take, as we all know 500 miles of range is only achieved through the most ideal conditions. My 315ish MY does not give me that range when I drive in the midwest. Hills, high-speed interstates (60-80 mph), wind, etc lower my range. In my case, living in the midwest and traveling to southeastern states would benefit me when traveling. For example, in ideal conditions, if I was to travel from Indianapolis, IN to Atlanta, GA, I would need to stop about 3/4 times give or take. A 500 mile version of the MY, maybe twice at a 250 KW SC. When I do make these trips, I stick to my ICE becuase I can get there quicker then my Tesla. I would like to take the MY but the extra time isn't worth it for me as I do not stop unless for gas. To conclude, my take is just having that convenience factors of extra range, of course everyone has a different use case compared to me.

Any thoughts, TMC?

Can someone critique my back of the napkin ROI on adding a Battery to my Solar system.

I have a 15Kw Enphase system (new)

I live in NH with Eversource at $0.24 / KWh
200 Amp service.

Eversource offers 75% NetMetering (I think, I get mixed info on how it’s calculated). No off peak rates.

Most batteries are around 92% efficient (round trip).

You can think of NetMetering (for me) as 75% efficient (round trip).

Roughly 1 battery for $10K with a capacity 10Kwh.

NetMetering is unlimited Batteries for $0K with unlimited capacity and for unlimited storage time and 0 loss.

The battery is 17% more efficient than NetMetering. With a cap of 10Kwh a day.

So let’s guesstimate that 6 month of the year I over produce.

That’s 10Kwh * 30 days a month * 6 months
1800 KWh. But we are only saving 17% so I’d save 306 kWh (by storing in the battery vs the grid). That’s being optimistic.

Now multiply that by electric utility rate. 306 * 0.24 kWh = $73/yr savings.

$10,000 / $72 = 136 years to break even

I use about 30 KWh a day. Probably could cut that back to 10 kWh during a power failure. House is all electric (geo thermal heat). So 1 day of backup. It would cost a fair bit more to allow for true off the grid mode during power failure and I have a manually switched generator.

Hello!
I have been collecting data through the new Fleet API and doing some analysis and data visualizations.
I was comparing the data i was getting with the app to the data from the API when i noticed something of concern.
When I go to my Energy page it shows graphed data for March and the total kwh at the top being 80.8kwh
However when I view individual charging sessions and add them up they match the result I get from the API which is 69.3kwh!
Going back to the in app graph I can see that on March 4th it reads 25.7 kwh for that day but in app and api both report 14.5kwh.
The strange part is the app not agreeing with itself.
I haven't found anyone else discussing this yet when I searched.
I think it's a bug in the app.

Received my free 1 month trial today of Tesla FSD 12.3.2.1 on my 2023 MX LR with AP HW4.
I currently have EAP but previously had a 3 month trial of an older spec FSD.
Tried it local and highway so far with a bunch of trips today in the dry and rain.

IMHO. Its like my 15-16yo kid driving. Pretty good! Pretty safe! Far less errors than my prior FSD trial.
Prior FSD trial was 98% accurate but I always intervened once or twice a trip.
Current FSD has so far been >99% accurate. Ive only intervened once after several trips.

I dont like:
Hitting potholes here in Chicago.
Stopping 4 feet from stop sign and creeping and stopping again.
Waiting for really large gap to merge onto highway.
Doesnt always achieve max speed that i set depending on conditions.

None of the above are killer. Just annoyed like watching my teenage kids drive.
Most importantly it was safe. Finally FSD!

This thread is for the general discussion of the marketplace listing September 2017 Model S 75 D for sale. Please add to the discussion here.

2022 MX LR

My right passenger Falcon wing door is rubbing the paint off. I took the car to sc multiple times and was sent to a body shop once. They tried to adjust the alignment but the issue persisted. Has anyone had the same problem and was able to get it resolved?

Weet er iemand of er nog meer verschillen zijn dan dit ???

- aandrijflijn en motoren (duh)
- carbon interieur en carbon buitenspoiler voor de plaid
- high performance remmen voor de plaid (whatever that means), dit zijn niet de remmen voor de max. snelheid >300kph
- betere sportzetels (net aangekondigd denk ik)

Ben net gaan testrijden met een nieuwe plaid om het verschil te voelen met mijn 2017 100D.
Geen fan van de Yoke (zeker op een rond punt), ook niet van de richtingsaanwijzers met de knoppen (heb tijdens 1 uur testrit zeker een paar keer dubbel moeten drukken en niet omdat ik er naast drukte). Carrosserie maakt wel minder lawaai, acceleratie is waanzin. Scherm is prima en supersnel. De testwagen was wel beperkt tot 140kph.

Nu nog testrit met de Taycan2 4s+ en de i5-M60...

I’ve had my Model Y about a month now and having a strange issue with the Wall Connector, that I had installed by a Tesla recommended electrician.

When my car is charging, our dishwasher inside the house restarts (powers on/off) every 8-10 minutes. The only reason we know this is because the dishwasher makes a chiming sound whenever its restarted or the door is opened, otherwise we may have never known. The charging never seems to be disrupted and we haven’t noticed any other electrical issues in the house. We have had the electrician that installed the Wall Connector back out to check everything and he can’t find any issues. Its a new house (about 15 months old), so we had the builder’s electrician come out and check everything. Both have said that they checked all the connections and have attempted to diagnose it, but haven’t been able to find anything.

I’ve tried adjusting the charge setting in the car from 48A down to 40A to see if that made any difference, but that had no Impact.

We have the electrician coming back out tomorrow to try and figure out what’s going on, but wanted to see if anyone else has any ideas what to try or to have the electrician check?

thanks in advance!

Howdy.
As the model 3 highland refresh roll out is in full swing i thought i would create a separate thread for highland specific accessories so the discussion can be moved from the model 3 waiting thread so it can stay on track.
During my wait for my 2024 m3 i started buying accessories and charging equipment from various places. In the following posts ill describe them.
I encourage everyone to post their findings and interoperability of parts from 2023 to 2024+ models so we can all learn together.
I especially encourage people to check our supporting vendors for accessories too!