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LATEST SOFTWARE UPDATE

I RECEIVED MY LATEST SOFTWARE UPDATE AND HAD BEEN USING A STEERING WHEEL CLAMP TO KEEP THE FSD FROM DISENGAGING EVEN THOUGH I HAVE MY HANDS ON THE WHEEL. MY FSD DISENGAGED AND SAID I WAS SUSPENDED FOR THE REMAINDER OF THE TRIP BECAUSE I HAD RECEIVED MULTIPLE WARNINGS .
IN TRUTH , THERE WERE NO WARNINGS. ACCORDING TO TESLA THE STEERING WHEEL DEVICE WAS DETECTED AND I RECEIVED A SUSPENSION FROM FSD.
IF YOU RECEIVE THREE OF THESE SUSPENSIONS YOU ARE PERMANENTLY BANNED FROM FSD.
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  • Question
12 volt may or may not die before I can get it replaced🤷‍♂️

Woke up to the screen saying my 12v is dying. Hell of a coincidence this happened the day I got fsd🤷‍♂️. Now it’s looking like I can’t get a mobile appointment until Thursday. Do we think my battery going to die before my appointment 🫤. If so what’s the procedure after my car turns in to a giant paper weight. The tesla service center has been pretty cold and heartless about the whole thing. I’m kind of freaking out as my car is needed for my work. Lives are actually involved with the sudden disappearance of a vehicle. I’m just trying to work out the what if’s.

I never have to touch the wheel in NoA or FSD Beta

So when I first picked up my car, August 2020, the steering wheel was at a pretty obvious angle while the car was driving straight. Tesla service performed an alignment and that fixed it, but since that alignment I’ve never had to touch the steering wheel while in NoA, and the same with fsd beta. I can confidently say that I can drive through city traffic for miles and drive hours on the highway without a single hand prompt. When the car changes lanes, there is a brief blue flash then the car changes lane without me touching the wheel.
I’ve reported it to service multiple times and across 3 different locations, but the service appointment gets canceled and I’m told I need to read the manual…”the car knows when you are paying attention and only alerts for hand use when you are not”.
My concern is that with Tesla now being able to detect cheat devices, they will think I have one installed and kick me out of beta and maybe risk my fsd package.
Should I waste more of my time trying to get service to take my concern seriously? Or should I be happy I have a unicorn with a steering issue that will never need wheel torque?
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Reactions: ElectricIAC

Looking for advise on getting the FSD Beta update

Hey all, my car is currently on 2022.36.6 and my car is asking me to install the same version (2022.36.6). I'm trying to get the latest FSD beta (2022.36.20). Should I install this/same version and hope the Beta version downloads next? Or is this likely a glitch?

The full story:
- Yesterday morning, my car was on 2022.36.6 and had 2022.40.4.1 downloaded and ready to be installed. I was holding off on installing it to hopefully get FSD beta
- Yesterday morning, after the news about FSD beta going to wide release, I subscribe to FSD and press the request button to enter the queue
- Nothing happens until this morning, when it seems like most cars have already gotten the beta update, and my car was still asking me to install 2022.40.4.1
- This morning I submit a service ticket through the app, requesting FSD beta (2022.36.20) and a few hours later, my car has 2022.36.6 pending install
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MXLR rejected, Loveland, CO - mild pressure and mild BSing from the SA to take it

Been waiting about 1 year for delivery for a 5 seat MXLR. Got a vin assigned last week and made appointment for 3pm on the 23rd. Wife and I decided to go look at the car in the lot on the 22nd. Got up to Loveland and went in the dealer, the SA looked us up and said "hi Im XXXX ill be the guy doing your appointment tomorrow"

us: "Great, we just want to look at it before delivery tomorrow we are excited"
him: "OK, but its probably dirty from delivery but its an open lot, I cant stop u walking around and finding your car and looking at it, just dont sit in it”
us: "Ummmm. OK". Slightly odd interaction, as if we were breaking the rules by looking at cars on the lot, but he was pleasant enough :) We followed his rules and looked but didnt sit in it..

Found the car in the lot, mechanic has just plugged it in and said we could look at it all we wanted. It was dirty from delivery, so I only made a brief inspection but found numerous panel issues. Background note: I have restored multiple cars and aircraft over the years and owned multiple car brands at, above and below this price point. I do have enough background to know what would be an "easy" fix or a tough fix, even for a body shop, based on my body shop experience.

1. Drivers door "out" about an 1/8" at the waistline trim both the front and rear...but bottom of door and glass "OK" (level). This would be a difficult fix...sucking in the front top hinge and latch would cure the issue, but would pull the glass in waaaay too tight.

2. Looking at car from front, looking at where the "roof" (piece between the two FWD doors) meets the glass was "up" about an 1/8" on the drivers side and level on the passenger side. I have no clue if that center spine/roof piece is welded on, clipped on, or bonded on? Either way it was attached crooked. I would not personally know how to fix this.

3. Looking from the back of the car, there is a 60" wide by 3" tall strip that runs across the back of the car on the outside...this one was wavy AF and on the drivers side was even w the FWD and on the passenger side it was down 1/4". Again, no clue if this piece is clipped, bonded or welded on....but it was wavy enough and poorly attached it looked like they had trouble getting it. I had no clue how to fix this.

4. Both FWD doors opened and closed correctly, however, the driver side cleared the spine/roof in the open position by approx 1/32 (good). The pass side rear of the FWD impinged/rubbed on the spine/roof (not so good). I*probably* could have fixed this my removing the interior panel and repositioning the glass alone (I understand there is a certain amount of slop available).

There were a couple of other pre delivery MXs on the lot and sadly neither of them showed these issues (tho we couldn’t inspect them as thoroughly.)

We left and discussed on way home and decided to reject it. My wife was disappointed, but I can't justify 120k for a car that looks like it came of a 70's British Leyland production line (Im expat British). My primary concern would be their ability to correct these problems post sale. They aren’t a body shop. And I don’t want to work on my new car.

I went back up for delivery next day (23rd) alone as I knew I was going to reject. SA dude from day before was very chipper, car was parked outside looking very clean and well presented. I said I wanted to inspect again now its clean. He was fine with that and unlocked it.

It was actually more difficult to see the same issues I mentioned above now that it was all shiny, but nothing had been adjusted. I also found an additional door seal issue on the passenger FWD, it looked like the seal had come “untucked”. Nothing in the interior shouted out at me and I didn’t bother running thru anything else on the check list.

Went in and told him I wanted to pass on this VIN. He seemed genuinely surprised and asked me to show him the problem areas. This is where it got interesting…he summoned over his SA buddy (didn’t catch the guys title/name) who “knows a lot more about the MX than I do” (his words).

We went outside and I pointed out the issues….they made a little show of not being able to see what I was pointing out numerous times (dude…this panel IS QUARTER INCH DOWN….my blind 14 yr old Labrador could see this) and then I mentioned my background.

Long story short:

  • SA buddy agreed they would have a hard time correcting these issues post sale as they aren’t a body shop (thanks for your honesty)
  • SA buddy said “this is all within tolerance though” (dude, you’re losing me)
  • SA buddy said “you can pass, but the next one might be worse" (thanks for your honesty again)
  • SA buddy said (and this is the most hilarious part) “well once you get to this price point, cars are hand built, I mean robot built, so its within tolerances” (dude….I’m out).
Told them I was gonna pass, and they respected my decision, so I’m back in line.

Overall, I was saddened by the experience (saddened for Tesla and as a shareholder). It felt like a typical car dealer interaction (tho much lighter pressure), with them pushing to try to get me to take a sub standard car. I couldn’t tell if they had really never took a look around a Lexus or Benz lot to see if “cars at this price point” all exhibit panel issues or if they were just BSing…sadly the latter I think.

For anyone in the northern CO front range , if you have a blue MXLR 5 seater, vin ending in 2021, I hope it works for you!

Wipers activating unexpectedly, even on a bright sunny day.

The last couple of times I went for a drive, the wipers started in completely dry conditions. The first time I thought maybe there was some dew on the windshield, but today, in broad sunlight and completely dry they came on at the highest speed for about 15 seconds. Car was recently updated to 2022.36.20, but it happened at least once before the update. Any ideas?

M3 Hit and Run, how bad is it?

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Hello,

Had a hit and run at a red light on thanksgiving. Dashcam caught the crash, working with the police on that aspect.

But how bad does this look, based on what we can see, anyway? The car slammed into me going about 30mph, I’d guess. I was stopped behind the solid line and it forced the car forward enough that the rear tires were on top of the solid line.

Car is in Richmond, closest Tesla owned shop is in MD. Car is 3 weeks old with 500 miles on it. 😑

If there’s any hint of potential structural damage, I want to make sure it is properly evaluated as a potential total loss.

I’ve only been a Tesla owner for 3 weeks so any of the Tesla specific nuances are foreign to me as of now. Appreciate any help/guidance.

Thanks,
Thomas

  • Question
I need some help deciding on what to do in this situation

I got my MYP recently, then 3 days later I hit a deer, the car seemed just fine to drive, so I continued to do so while I wait for my insurance to give me an estimate for the shop, very little damage (idk how to post photos here yet, sorry)
So 5 days go by, and on the fifth day my windshield wipers stopped working and the slightly damaged headlight stopped working as well, then in the app it told my the 12v battery connection was lose, then disconnected, I decided I’ll go home and try to connect it myself, but I noticed the car was then telling me it may randomly shut down, and that it might not be able to start driving again after this drive ends, so about 5 min into my drive home, the car starts freaking out, red on the screen, telling me to pull over and the vehicle is shutting down and a few min after I pulled over, I heard a little thump or a clunk in what seemed like the trunk, maybe the battery? I told Tesla about that through text and they seemed confused as well, mind you the vehicle was sitting absolutely still and in park for over a minute, this happened before my drive as well, my gf was sitting in the car while I was at work and she heard it 2-3 times as well, and she was just sitting in the car listening to music, enjoying the car while waiting for me to get out of work, anyway once I heard it we got out, I called Tesla and they connected to my vehicle and told me they are getting a lot more warnings than they would get if it’s just the 12V, and they said “oh yeah, let’s get this towed to our service center” and I TOLD THEM it was damaged from a deer at that point, but they proceeded anyway, fast forward a few days and they tell me they can’t work on the vehicle because it’s damaged, and I have to bring it to an auto body shop first, and I’ll get charged if it’s not moved ASAP, over a month later (today actually) the vehicle is done and I’m going to get it, I mentioned to them that I couldn’t even drive it, and asked if it’s drivable, I see through the Tessie app they drove it multiple times throughout the month, and once up to 51 MPH, so I think it’s safe to say it drives, the question is, should I now finally take it to the Tesla service center? I just want my car back already, sucks to have it for 22 minutes on the drive to the Tesla center that made me tow it away to the body shop in the first place, sorry this was lengthy, but I appreciate anyone who reads this and offers some valuable input and opinions, thank you and happy (late) thanksgiving!

  • Question
LFP SR+ over old LR?

Hi I am looking to replace my i3 especially I will be traveling about 120 per day with my new role (we have charging at work but the price starting to get too high)
Always fancy a Model 3 and looking at used Model 3
I am looking at both 21 plate LFP SR+ and 19 plate LR
I wonder do I lose much if I pick the LFP SR over the LR, I think the LFP is slightly more robust battery? it will be a facelift and I will still have heated steering and rear heated seats if I find a 71 or later reg?
19 plate LR would have higher mileage on it, US rather MIC, but I gain more range and slightly better performance, nicer interior, front fog light and better sound system?

Thoughts on High Mileage Model S purchase

I’m considering purchasing an older Model S as I’d like one with free supercharging. What are your thoughts on one with 100k + miles? As many have gone through more than one owner by now, it seems unlikely to be able to find out whether the battery or drive unit have been replaced. Is there a way to find out this information? I asked at our local Tesla dealer but they were less than helpful.

I’m particularly interested in the P85 although a bit concerned a PO might have had a heavy foot (with matching grin). I’d love AP1 but those seem to be unicorns with the P85.

Thanks!

Tesla early termination of lease issue

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I leased a Tesla 2022 model y performance in March 2022, now I want to return it early, the vehicle has no accidents and damages, the kilometers are 17100, I just clicked early termination on my mobile app lease, and then the estimated price given is $0.00 final payment, I saw in the forum that many people also have a final payment of $0.00 and there is no problem, but after the final quotation, it suddenly becomes that I need to pay nearly $15,000 The final payment, I don't know what to do now, I think Tesla miscalculated the quotation? Can anyone help me and tell me what to do next?

  • Poll
How far will current selling prices fall after Jan. 1 ?

How much will 2022 MY & MYP prices fall when Federal Rebates resume Jan. 1 ?

  • $2k - $3k

  • $4k - $5k

  • $6k -$7k


Results are only viewable after voting.

With $7,500 rebates around the corner, I'm wondering how far current prices will fall to compete with new purchases.
I will be in the market around Jan. 1 and anxious to see how much the value of used '22s AND '23s will drop.
If there is a substantial price drop, I'd probably be happy buying a '22 or '23 used model.
Makes no sense buying one now (if not absolutely necessary) if Fed rebate is around the corner.
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Camera Recalibration: How Frequently?

I can’t get a straight answer to this question from Tesla sources, either the nationwide support phone folks or local service center.

It seems odd that Tesla would now include that capability under the Service menu unless they thought it was needed for us to perform more than once in the life of the vehicle.

Do we need to do this on every software update? I’ve been told repeatedly by Tesla sources to turn the vehicle power off for five minutes, restart and do a double scroll wheel reset after every software update.

  • Question
Was going to sell my car and got hit right before listing. What would you do?

Hello,
I have a 21 telsa model 3. I drive for work so I have put 65k on since I got it. I recently decided I wanted to sell and get a gas car because stopping to charge every day is not ideal.

The day I am going to list the car, someone hit me in a parking lot and left. My options are go through my insurance and pay my deductible of $1,000 or sell it and take the loss. However, my insurance agent said that she has seen telsas take months to fix and get extremely expensive.

Has anyone had to have a bumper replaced what did they charge? Is this something you would fix prior to selling or just take a loss and sell with the dent? My premiums will most likely go up $500-700 a year because of filing a claim. Pictures attached.

Also, the Kelly blue book is showing $38,896-$43,339 private party with no damage. I can’t find a single listing near me for less than 43k. If I was to post with the dent I was thinking 38k. Let me know your thoughts and what you would do.

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Model 3 Service after 1 year...?

Hi everyone,

I am coming up to 1-year ownership and around 11k miles on my Model 3. Brilliant car, all happy and no issues so far. I know I don't need to do a 1-year service (according to the manual) like an ICE car but it is difficult to change your mindset after 15 years of traditional ICE annual services!

I am wondering what your experiences are after 1 year and at what point you decided to get the car serviced or checked over (Tires/brakes etc) to ensure everything is optimal. Or do I not need to worry and the car will tell me when something needs checking?

When it comes to service, should I contact Tesla directly through the app, or does anyone have experience using mechanics/traditional service centres?

Perhaps I am overthinking but I am keen to hear about experiences!

My insurance appraiser is quoting $23K to fixing this Model X. Is that accurate?

Hello!
I was nearly stopped on a high on my Model X when I got rear ended at full highway speed from an SUV, and then pushed forward to hit another truck. However, the insurance appraiser is quoting 23K to fix the whole car (appraised ballpark at the tow yard before the tear down or going to a Tesla Certified Shop) - is that accurate? I was thinking this would be closer to a total loss than a repair job.

Thank you in advance for your help!

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  • Question
Most will hate this question...[is there a way to play exhaust sounds when I accelerate?]

All my life I've owned muscle cars, and made the switch to my M3 AWD a few months ago. Everything is perfect, however I'm missing the exhaust sounds of my old cars. Is there an app/program I can open that will play exhaust sounds as I accelerate?? There are some on the App Store but they are only compatible with the mechanics of a regular gas car. Free or paid is fine with me thank you!!

2023 MYP impressions

Just replaced my 2020 MYP with the 2023 today. Here are a few thoughts:
- Tesla got a good trade in - my 2020 MYP was wrapped top to bottom with ceramic, no dents, no dings but unfortunately trade-in values were coming down so I made the call to trade it in. Why?
- My 2020 was number 3xx off the line and had a really, I mean really harsh ride. Harsh enough that coffee from a sealed starbucks cup was coming out every time.
- I had no dimming side-mirrors, and I had massive rattle problems with the headliner, rear seat (replaced, but still rattles).

I DO miss the fact I had FSD, USS for parking, and was relatively flawless.

Impressions of the 2023? Well here they are:
- Much better suspension. Not cushy, but it blunts out the hard bumps
- Much better insulation - top down, back front.
- Dimming side mirrors are a plus
- Front and rear headlights much better
- Handling is just as good if not slightly better (perhaps it’s a placebo effect) compared to 2020
- Better center console

There is a slight rattle or cable hitting something noise in the dash, so I’ll have that looked at, and there was a crease in the drivers seat. I’ll bring that in once I have the car wrapped from top to bottom again.

Is it a clear winner? Depends on what you’re looking for. I was looking for a better ride, better build and more insulation. I do miss the USS sensors though…………

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