got the Vorsteiner Carbon Aero, and man I love the way it changed the car, I ended up painting most of the top of the hood and left only the center black since the full hood is carbon, i liked the way they showed the purple one on their site so I went for the same look. The wheels are Brada LX10 in case anyone was wondering.

Tesla only needs to achieve a MTBF of 1000 hours. Other companies such as Mobileye or Waymo can waste their time aiming for 10 million hours.

Why?

Tesla has Neuralink.

Even if a Tesla driver gets into an accident, their brain function can easily be restored.

This is a long-term competitive advantage that Waymo will never have.

Anyone FOOLISH enough to use a Waymo will have to accept that it's one and done for them. Once the Waymo fails, they're dead.

If a Tesla fails, they will be airlifted to a Neuralink facility and be given a second chance at life.

This is a little understood competitive advantage that Tesla has. It finally makes sense now -- why Elon founded Neuralink and FSD.

Has anyone figured out how to play own music in a 2024 Model Y? I can plug into a USBC, but can't find a way to play it.

Polaris now offering an electric ATV

But from $45K??

Why does the Tesla Navigation on Motorways treat every junction as separate Motorway section? When I'm on a long trip, as I was today, all I want to know is the distance until my next exit. I don't need to be told to stay on the motorway at every junction.

When did this change? I'm sure it didn't used to do this.

Took delivery of a 2024 MY Performance on 03/31/2024 in NJ. There is an “A” in the VIN indicating it is from Austin but the window sticker said the Final Assembly Point was Fremont.

Has anyone else seen this? I’m curious because up until now I thought all the MYP had 2170s and were made in Fremont but the A in the VIN has me questioning this?

We all know Tesla has car alarm, sentry video camera, walk away locks, pin to drive, multiple cameras, uwb digital key. I recently had someone unplug my car while using the adapter. If u charge on public non super charger stations u need to get the adapter lock. It’s just a few bucks but deters jerks from unplugging yr Tesla. Sooner or later it will happen to you. More security the better.

Looks like referral rewards are ending at the end of this month.

Fingers crossed they still honour existing orders delivered after this date.

Here we go again...

Hi,

I currently have a Gen 2 wall charger and am considering leasing a Tesla 3 single motor standard range car. To be able to claim back the costs of charging I have to be able to show how much charge has been delivered, does the Gen 2 wall connector do this?

Facebook report

Control arm bolt loose
Model Y Australia.

My wife bought a used 2019 Nissan Leaf last year. I just bought a new Model Y earlier this week. We've been using the mobil charger that came with her Nissan to charge the Leaf from a NEMA 14-50 on the wall of our carport.

I ordered a mobile charger along with my Model Y, but it hasn't arrived yet (UPS says Monday). I planned to charge my Model Y with her mobile charger and the J1772 to NACS adapter that came with the Model Y.

This morning I went to unplug my Model Y. The adapter came out of the Model Y fine, but it was stuck on the end the Leaf 1772 mobile charger cable. Wrestled with it for a few minutes and even tried prying with a screwdriver, stuck (@#$%). Did a little web research and was worried that it might be fused at the electrical connections. Went back this afternoon gave it a few more pulls and it came free. (Whew). It was about 60F when plugged in yesterday, 40F this morning and 70F this afternoon.

I've also used the J1772 adapter with no problems at my local Hannaford grocery store in Manchester, NH. Free charging

• Continue using my wife's 2019 Leaf mobile charger for both cars.
  • Worrying about the adapter getting stuck permanently.
• Use current 14-50 outlet and switch between mobile chargers depending on which car needs charging.
  • Worry about wear on outlet and frequent strain on charger connectors.
• Buy a 14-50 splitter. Amazon, and use both mobile chargers.
  • Cons: $319, Right up there with cost of another charger.
  • Pros: Smart switching. Won't overload main panel in the house.
• Install new 14-50 and use both mobile chargers. Set Model Y to limit current to 20 amps so I won't overload house if both cars are charging at the same time.
• Buy and install new wall mounted charger.

One last data point. My most frequent long trips are up to see my Dad in northern Maine. No public charger near his place, but he has a NEMA 6-50 plug in his garage for his welder. I plan to charge overnight from that when visiting him (I've ordered the 6-50 plug for the Tesla mobile charger).

Any recommendations?

Hi, Im after some inspiration. I want to upgrade my interior but would like your opinions on what the best interior upgrades are. My Tesla is model 3, blue. Im considering a swivel mount for the screen, Alcantara dash cover, maybe some lighting... Would love to hear your thought and or see your upgrades to hopefully inspire me... I also dont have a huge budget...

I feel like the question "can anything become detached in the driver footwell?" should be on the final design signoff for every vehicle...

I want to share my recent experience in hopes that it may help some of you save money and get a proper repair.

I own a 2013 Model S 85 with 123k miles, way out of warranty now.

Noise and issues with Tesla diagnosis:

About 2 months ago my car started making a tapping noise as I drove at lower speeds. I decided to make an appointment at my local Tesla service center in Westmont, IL. Their diagnosis was to replace the entire suspension for $4400. I decided to only spend $373 and have the front arms replaced.
The noise continued, and because the diagnosis was not specific, I decided to take my car to a local shop and have it diagnosed. There they scoped the sound and found it to be the drive unit, took them a few hours so the cost there was just under $200.
I immediately made another appointment with my local Tesla Service center, and upon bringing it in explaining the findings the tech confirmed that the noise which was now more pronounced is in fact the drive unit. The quoted me $8500 for a remanufactured drive unit replacement. I decided it was too much and had to think about my next steps. It was also the same amount of money they just quoted me for trading in my Model S, so it was a bit frustrating to say the least.

Research:
Now I wanted to find a 3rd party service center. I have heard of several but Gruber along with several others are too far AZ, CA, etc., Living in the Chicago Area I decided to deliver my car to Electrified Garage to repair my drive unit, which might be a good idea for anyone living near the east coast. I continued to do some research where I found a local Engineer and Tesla enthusiast Jordan Tesla Repair in Libertyville, IL. He was quick to reach back out and share a lot of information about my problem along with some other issues. Unfortunately, at the time he did not have a garage, so he referred me to Paul Erickson of Forklifts by day and Teslas by night in Armstrong, IA. After speaking to Paul, I was convinced that this was my best solution, and so very glad I found the two of them. I learned that my LDU was replaced at 56k miles before with a reman unit and now again at 123k miles which was less than 67k miles of life. Tesla offers a 50k mile warranty which is just too funny to me now that I see the trend of the LDU life.

Process and repair:

Paul was able to arrange transport of my vehicle to his Garage in Iowa (Armstrong Mobile Forklift Repair). Once delivered Paul went straight to work on it. I will share some of the many photos he shared with me along the process of repairing and informing me of the specific issues and precise solutions to remediate future trouble. My issue which seems to be very common in the early model LDU is coolant leakage into the motor or electronics themselves. Thankfully I caught it early enough that the electronics stayed dry/safe. The gears and bearings however were not as fortunate. The LDU was completely repaired, new gaskets, bearings, gears, and coolant delete implemented to prevent reoccurring issue. While he had it I also went ahead and had the rear cams, cv shafts, and air suspension replaced as well as Paul’s recommended battery pressure test, alignment, and brake inspection. Paul is very detail oriented and knowledgeable and just made me feel so confident that my car will be repaired properly and last longer than having this LDU swapped out at Tesla. His pricing is more than fair and his work speaks for itself. I ended up having all that work done for under $6k taxes included. If you live in the IA or MN area and are out of warranty, then look no further, going to Paul is a no brainer. I would suggest anyone in the Chicago area to reach out to Jordan now that he just opened his garage in Libertyville. He is capable and he can save you transport fees to Iowa. These two gentlemen you must know, especially if you own a Tesla out of warranty like myself. Honest, trustworthy and knowledgeable service tech/engineers.
Additionally, Jordan is manufacturing 3rd party upgrades to these older Tesla models as well which is fantastic.

I hope this information helps one of you Tesla owners out there in a similar predicament.
Feel free to post or reach out for any additional info or questions. I tried to keep this as short as possible but there is so much to share.

Last week I rented a Model 3 and noticed while parking it displayed what looked like a heatmap of objects nearby rather than the distance to the object. I can’t seem to find out how to enable this feature on my 2022 Model 3. Any ideas?

Just got off of a call with my project advisor and he said the system would be in "self-consumption" mode prior to PTO after installation, and output would be limited. I asked him whether this means limited in that it will not export to grid (known) or actually power limited. He said limited only in that it won't output to grid. Coincidentally, I just saw this post on Reddit of someone who just had their system installed and is in this "self-consumption" mode where their system seems to be vastly power limited. Is this really a thing? Why do they do it? Is it some kind of anti-consumerism where they don't want people to have lower/no energy bills AND no loan for however long it takes the utilities to give PTO? Or is there some technical limitation? If that is true, I wouldn't understand since even when PTO is granted and system is fully commissioned, it can be run in off-grid mode. How would that be different than self-consumption mode?

I am a very new owner of a 2019 Tesla 3. The previous owner told me charge when it gets down to about 20% and only to 80%. I have been on several forums and there seems to be a belief by many but not all that it should be charged daily to the 80% limit. I only use it around town so my usage is 30% + or -.
I don't know what to do. Please advise.
Thanks

... a Ford Lightning, that is:

https://youtu.be/XQ5gT9dTPEQ

As somewhat explained in the test accompanying the YT video, I had just left my veterinarian's office and was headed to a nearby Starbucks when a Ford Lightning ran a red light and nearly t-boned me. My light turned green, I proceeded into the intersection, while watching the oncoming truck on my left. I thought he was going to stop, but he just sailed on through the intersection. There is a clearly displayed red light from the right repeater in the second half of the video.

Wish the car saves the B pillar video feeds. Could have got a nice view of the front of the truck, with possibly the license plate. Although it does have a front license plate frame, I can't read it from the front camera, nor does the right repeater have a view since there was a car next to me.

Unfortunately our M3 has been written off by our insurer - with ~6 months left on 4yr PCH lease with TFS

So far 4 emails and a voicemail to TFS since Weds asking for a settlement figure and an urgent ask for the the V5C so I can take my private plate off it.

Nothing, no response, tumbleweeds, not even a thanks, we're looking at it.

Is this normal, is anyone there?

I know I can get a settlement figure on the app - but that looks to assume I'll be returning the vehicle to Tesla + paying off the ~£8k it quotes as it mentions damage deductions etc. - the vehicle will be going to copart not Tesla and I can't give that £8k figure to the insurance co. without TFS confirming the actual figure is correct / expected.

A ~£52k car, paid ~23k on the PCH so far over 3.5yrs so the maths don't work surely - Tesla must be owed £52k - £23k from the insurance to write it off.

This is blocking me ordering a model Y (as I need to be sure claim is settled 1st) to replace it, and is giving me serious doubts about using TFS again - there seems to be no way to speak to a human other than voicemail and requesting a call-back.

Anyone know of a way to escalate this to speak to a human?

My car was robbed by a thief who was able to keep my Walk-Away Door Lock from activating. Reviewing my Sentry footage, as my family walked away from the car in the back, he walked next to my car and depressed the door handle, thus cracking open the door and preventing the Walk-Away Door Lock from activating. He continued walking to not appear conspicuous but returned later to open the trunk and doors to remove multiple items.
Lesson learned to confirm the door lock before leaving the vicinity of the car. I shared the Sentry footage with the police but he was wearing a mask so was hard to ID.

The Unplugged Performance iron big brake kit uses PFC V3 two piece rotors. I'd like to replace the retaining ring that connects the rotor to the hat. Are these rings universal or specific to each application? Anyone know which rings I need? Thanks

Hi
I've got solar, a Powerwall, 2 Tesla wall connectors setup to load share and charge 3 Tesla vehicles (mine, my wife's car and my son's car).

Each car is on it's own account, I have access to my wife's account but can't see specific charging details on that car (2023 model Y). I can see her car including it's correct description when it's connected to a wall connector

My son has his own account, but I can't see that car other than as "Electric Vehicle" when it's connected - It's a Model 3.

I'm the "owner" of the solar installation and the 2 wall connectors.

The weird thing is I can only see vehicle charging graphs for my own car.

If my wife's or son's car gets charged, there is no vehicle graph data available, it's just treated as part of the house load. The upshot is, I'd like to easily see how much we're putting into charging all vehicles on the app graph for Vehicles.

I'm aware of the "View EV charging history" wall connector charging list in the Energy area of the app but its not easily consumed, and not graphed.

Is there any way of having all EV charging load appear in the Tesla app when a car charges?

I just picked up my Ultra Red, white interior, 20" wheel, tow hitched model Y on March 26th. I am coming from a 2018 Model 3 LR RWD. Here are some things I have noticed.

1. Every input is heavier or requires more force on the Y. The accelerator, steering, braking and maybe even touch screen inputs(ha ha). The 3 feels light and nimble by comparison. Even with settings set the same. Not surprising going from RWD to AWD but very noticeable.
2. The Y feels more planted and stable. It is faster and I even have the acceleration boost but the fast is straight line in nature. I just need to get used to the added bulk for slicing up roads and traffic but I am sure the 3 is a better tool for that activity.
3. I love the hatch-back and extra room of the Y. Powered tailgate is great. Not falling into or climbing out is a plus too I guess.
4. The color combo makes it much easier to find when amongst many other Teslas
5. Range is close for both cars. I do 110 miles a day commuting. Model 3 Charges to 90% overnight and gets to work (55 miles) at 60% or so. Model Y charges to 85% and arrives to work at about 60% as well. I am driving at least 70mph and am often having fun accelerating and going a bit faster on the back deserted roads.

I was lucky in my timing and bought at the perfect time. Free color, inventory discount, $1000 cybertruck preorder credit, referral bonus points (used to buy acceleration boost and console trays), 5000 supercharging miles.

I purchased advanced autopilot as well. I really just wanted the lane change without having to stop and restart AP when driving.

The new FSD beta released just after purchase as well, nice. I have three months free.

One question: My vehicle specs show Full Self-Driving Capability currently. Is this what people with a trial see?

Hi all.

Na een goed half jaar rond rijden heb ik enkele kleine issues met mijn model s.

- tijdens het luisteren naar Apple Podcasts heb ik 2 issues:
1) na een tijdje pauzeert de aflevering. Wanneer ik dan op play druk is er geen geluid meer. Enige oplossing is even overschakelen naar andere input (Spotify bvb) en terug naar podcasts gaan.
2) het is niet mogelijk om afleveringen van wttaa af te spelen. Ze zijn grijs gemaakt en je kan niets afspelen.

- muziek op laag volume:
Stukken zonder lage tonen worden harder afgespeeld. Wanneer er terug lage tonen komen gaat het volume meteen naar beneden.

- sinds laatste update krijg ik meldingen dat mijn raam rechts achter nog open zou zijn terwijl dit niet het geval is.

- opladen met mobiele lader (mennekes) van 13a gaat max aan 12a. Heel soms lukt het aan 13 maar meteen erna limiteert de dagen naar 12a max.

- geen weergave van flitspalen en andere verkeersinfo die naar het schijnt toch zouden moeten aanwezig zijn sinds enkele updates geleden.

Ik zit op update 2024.8.9 met MCU2

Alle tips zijn welkom!