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Phone key muddle

Hi all. Can you help me work out wtf I’ve done wrong.

So I share my M3LR 2021 with my wife we both have happily used our phones as keys and all has worked fine. Sometimes when we both go to the car and she’s driving it sees me and presents my profile but a manual change to her profile resolves. Other than that no issues.

Over the past week my wife started complaining that the car wasn’t recognising her phone as a key and that she had to use the key card.

So, forgetting the fact she was in the states last week and had all Bluetooth off and probably roaming etc I dived straight into solution mode. My theory was that some update or other had corrupted her profile, mine was unaffected and I had no issues. Please note this is STILL the case.

So I googled and YouTubed and reminded myself how to delete a profile and reinstate her phone as a key.

I went into my own Tesla app and by selecting manage drivers I deleted her profile. I went into the car and selected locks and tried to delete her profile. Not sure that was successful.

So now onto the add driver part and this is where it all seemed to go belly up.

Armed with my wife’s key card and her phone I opened her app and my car had disappeared. The only way forward I can see is to add a new product ie my car. Following this through the app asked for the VIN etc. I wasn’t expecting to do this.

I know it’s supposed to be easy but WTF have I done wrong?

Each time I left my OWN phone far away from the car so as to not confuse profiles etc.

She’s now away to work with the car but using the card as entry only.

Pretty sure it’s me and not the car any idiots guide for an idiot to resolve the issue?

NHTSA make roads across the world less safe

An observation, id love input on...

NHTSA force Tesla to set up the 5 strike system.
Road deaths are going up in Australia and around the world, one big reason for this is people checking phones, and generally doing things in the car other than operating it.
In a Tesla you have the option to lock the car in the centre of the lane and keep it from hitting the car infront, simply by engaging autopilot.
You can sit like this and see cars all around you ping ponging as people arse around with their phones while driving.

Tesla put out a advertorial showing how they don't just rely on the crash test, they use real world data to make their cars safer in crash tests.
Well this is real world, people shouldn't check their phones, but they do!

We used to have the option to make our cars safer, but now if you check your phone with autopilot engaged you risk losing that helpful function, so now Tesla drivers get to ping pong all over the road in an unsafe manor like everyone else or they risk losing their wingman!


I know some of you are likely just itching to tell me its the law.
Wonderful, it's the law, cling to your piece of paper..... Did that stop anyone acting this way or save a life on the road?

BTW big changes in 2024 Model Y vs 2023 earlier Model Y

Just went to the car show and then the tesla store, I'm noticing some big changes in 2024 Model Y vs 2023 Model Y namely:

  1. Trunk felt liner is now all the way to shoulder part where you put the trunk lid and goes into the sides of the backseat. This potentially reduces the tinny sound, and also definitely fixes the seat belt issue where it clangs on the side plastic.
  2. Middle seat is completely redesigned, the middle headrest is now super stiff, and cannot go up more than 2 clicks. It now clicks and locks down rather than in the 2023 where it just floats. The middle seat also is super stiff and stuck into the seat compared to the current loose version where you need to put electrical tape on the metal shaft to keep it in place.
  3. They've also increased the diameter of the metal shaft that keeps the middle seat in place, which makes sense why it feels far sturdier than before.
  4. Back seats also feel a lot more firm, rather than feeling flimsy. I am able to shake my back seat in 2023 whereas in 2024, I am unable to even make it move.
  5. the 2 rubber pieces on bottom of the trunk are now far smaller, and wider apart, not sure what this means from a design point of view but they seem to be better. Trunk also closes far more quiet than the 2023 model
I'm guessing a vast majority of rattle will be fixed in the 2024 Model Y, can owners please respond and see if they've noticed a big difference?

Not a single news or forum has brought this up. It seems like a huge update to fix rattling issues.
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Teslabox: ervaringen

Vandaag ben ik begonnen met het installeren van Teslabox op mijn Raspberry Pi 5 4GB, samen met de originele Tesla USB-stick.

Tot nu toe lijkt de software goed te werken. Het slaat alle beelden van mijn ritten netjes op en stuurt een samenvattend filmpje naar mijn Telegram.

Vooral de Sentry-optie valt op; het geeft vrijwel direct een foto en een volgend filmpje weer waarin het de bewegingen rondom de auto volgt.

Ik ben benieuwd naar andere gebruikerservaringen met Teslabox. Wie gebruikt dit nog meer en wat zijn je ervaringen?

Charging cable management?

I charge at work and I mount my own cable each time I start charging using the wall mounted L2 charger with Type 2 plug.

The cable is about 2-3 times longer than it should for this use case and it ends up on the floor.

I can’t mount anything extra on the wall.

I tried an elastic cord to organize the slack into a heavy loop on the charger side but it ends up being in diagonal to my charge port so now my cable rests on my car because I back up to the charger.

I’ve read others use a bicycle stand for this and have the extra cable rest on it.

Wondering if there are any other ways I didn’t consider of taking the slack easy and fast while keeping the charger off the floor and car so it remains clean.

Vendor Wish you could reduce Supercharging usage? Looking for testers

Hello, I’m Doug. I'm looking for testers to provide feedback. I'll deliver the unit for free then I just want to get your input on your experience and to understand what you think. No, I don't charge anything. I just want feedback.

If you rely on a supercharger/public chargers and you'd love to reduce time and money spent there, then I think you'll be a great candidate to give feedback. I have been working on this for 2 years. I live in an apartment and I have a 110V plug and installing L2 in my landlord's property doesn't make any sense (way too expensive and I move around).

DockCharged: provides level 2 charge rates with $0 installation cost.

How it works: It uses batteries and software to turn a 110V outlet into an L2 capable charger. It stores energy while you're away at work and sends stored battery energy directly into the car and in parallel sends 110V into the car (no, other battery back up systems cannot do this. My invention is the only one that can do this due to all the custom software and hardware).
  • Get up to 100 miles of charge in a night.
  • Reduce cost: Avoid on-peak energy rates but still charge during on-peak hours by using energy stored during off peak hours
  • It turns any 110V outlet into a level 2 charger and is designed for EV owners in apartments, condos, and old homes where installing L2 is not allowed or too expensive.
  • It is very easily movable and it can be fitted in your trunk but best experience is leaving it plugged into 110V and pretty much left in one spot.
  • I personally save 5 hours and $110 per month by reducing my reliance on the supercharger.
Video of our beta unit and how it works:

Login to view embedded media
Feel free to DM or message me here. Thanks so much. Doug

2019 Model 3 opvolger kiezen

Net als ik zijn er ongetwijfeld op dit forum veel 2019 model 3 rijders die nu al, of de komende maanden zich gaan verdiepen in een opvolger.
Ik ben benieuwd wat waarvoor jullie hebben gekozen of (denken te) gaan kiezen.

Ik heb gereden in de Model 3 Highland SR en de Model y LR en ter vergelijking ook in een Volvo XC40 en Audi Q4-45.
Ik ben sinds 2019 een best tevreden Tesla rijder en heb voorkeur om bij Tesla te blijven.

Ik wil een hogere zit en dan valt de Highland helaas af. Helaas, want een flinke stap vooruit en ik vind het vooral van de achterkant een erg mooie auto.
Model Y LR is op zich al een verbetering tov mijn 2019 Model 3, maar nadeel dat ik het van voren geen schoonheid vind, dat je ze op iedere hoek van de straat ziet en dat ergens het komend jaar de Juniper update gaat komen.

Voordeel van de Model Y is dat mijn werkgever een parelwitte LR erg aantrekkelijk maakt wat qua netto maandelijkse kosten een overslaanbare aanbieding is. Helaas valt er dan niets te configureren. Enige wat ik zou willen toevoegen zijn de 20” velgen, maar met het geld dat ik op zak houd door de ‘standaard LR’ te kiezen kan ik wel ergens een paar knappe zwarte wielen kopen.

Aangezien mijn huidige contract eind juni afloopt, hoopte ik dat ergens rond die tijd Model Y Juniper zou verschijnen, maar na de laatste berichten (US markt) lijkt dat eerder 2025 te worden. (Tenzij men Europa toch eerder gaat voorzien).

Optie zou nog zijn om na inleveren auto een pool auto te gaan rijden en te wachten totdat Juniper beschikbaar komt en dan te bestellen, maar dat kan best nog lang duren.

Benieuwd naar jullie afwegingen en keuze.

Battery Preheat - Down side

Hi All,

I had a small issue at the weekend, admittedly this was somewhat down to some poor planning with my charging and an issue with my overnight charge.

I was running low on charge on Saturday to the point I had to use a non-tesla charger. I put the destination in my satnav of the charger and it showed I would arrive with 3% battery remaining so I set off confident in the knowledge I would get there with battery to spare, I drove carefully to conserve range. I typically average around 220-230 Wh/mi but as I had put a charger as the destination, the car started to precondition the battery and my economy went up to 332 Wh/mi, my estimated % on arrival slowly went down until it hit 1% with 3 miles to go, at which point I cancelled the satnav as I knew where I was going, I arrived at the charger with 0% battery, high blood pressure and complete panic at the thought of the embarrassment when I told my family/friends.

Has anyone else found that this can happen, I am surprised there isnt something in the software to prevent preconditioning once you are below a certain percentage.

Windscreen replacement cost!

I have a 2 inch crack in the lower passenger side windscreen from a motorway trip on Wednesday night (sounded like a half 🧱😟). Checking with Tesla technical documentation it says nothing should be repaired in this section, and Autoglass decision tree also confirmed this. Going through the booking process, you have the option of via the insurance or to pay for the repair; out of interest I clicked the pay option. The quote was over £3k, this will be an insurance job but can’t help wondering how they arrived at the figure, for what is 3-5h work?

Mustang mach-e

Just a had a quick look at one of these as I noticed it at the local Ford dealer. I only had five minutes.

Yeah, I don't think much of it, I can't believe people say Tesla's have a poor build quality, this think felt like a $35k car.

Door cars are flimsy, the door release button is mechanical in some awkward position, rear seat room is significantly smaller than the Model Y. The rotary gear selector seems pointless, along with the start/stop and brake buttons Climate control wouldn't switch on without the fob. The GT model had a nice dark headliner and suede seats.

Forward visibility also poor because of the Mustang styling.

Seems completely UN-compelling at the price.

Worth just checking it just to see however.

Sales tax calculated based on Tesla center location instead of my registration address

As per the title, Tesla showing initial estimates based on my home zip code but after ordering, purchase agreement showing sales tax based on their sales center location. Any suggestions? This is n Illinois where state has 6.25% tax with some counties adding additional tax which my county doesn’t have. Isn’t the calculation supposed to be based on registration address for buyer ?

Cyber trucks are rusting….

ok so my bachelors is in engineering (focused on materials) so I am fully aware that most stainless steels rust or at least stain. But will all the hype over the last 4 years about how tough and durable the CT SS body would be this seems a little ridiculous. There are “easy” ways to prevent or greatly delay rust and stains.

Make me think more and more the only real world testing they did was Elon rolling around SoCal.

Tesla Cybertrucks Are Rusting. There Are Fixes for That.

2013 S HV Battery Repair

Hey All,

2013 Model S, headed to the airport during a storm and hit several points where I floated the car. I made it to the airport just fine but 4 days later returned to the car with a dead 12 V battery. Tried to jump start it with no luck and found the dreaded isolation fault codes. I have a machines and electronics background so am going to take a stab at repair before buying a new pack. After seeing a few threads here have a newfound hope I'll be able to dry this thing out and may just repair a few cells in the process.

A couple up front questions I couldn't find after an hour or two of searching.

What sockets do I need for the HV battery removal?
Do I disconnect the coolant lines and electrical connections prior to lowering the battery?

Anyway, here are the codes. I am guessing water ingress with damaged to some BMBs.. Just ordered the OBDlink and patch cable, so hoping to get battery voltages and more info soon.

BMS_U018 SOC Imbalance Limiting
BMS_W158 Low Isolation Wrn
GTW_w405 12V Not Supported
GTW_w018 hvac load shed
BMS_u008 Limp Mode
BMS_w172 SW Drive ISO Warning
BMS_w142 SW Isolation Degradation
BMS_w123 Internal Isolation
BMS_w110 SW Vsense
BMS_w059 Pack Voltage Sensing
BMS_w026 SW Ctrs Disabled
BMS_F110 SW Module Vsense

4 year MOT - Fail!

Well I've never had a car fail an MOT at 4 years old, but there's a first time for everything!

1) Rear brake discs and pads need changing due to rust and disc fluctuation.
2) Rear upper suspension arm play - needs replacing

and an advisory for both front lower front suspension arms!

Car is out of warranty so a grand to pay if all done.

Already been advised that next year will need front brakes....

Bearing in mind that is has already had this work under warranty , are they that good in the quality dept?!

Rear bumper as delivered with a massive scratch
Rear boot loom
Upper Front suspension arms
2x rear spoilers
Front wing and bonnet respray

Feeling disappointed with Tesla tonight!

EVSE died after 7years and 23MWh. Low cost dumb EVSE replacement recommendations ?

After more than 7years and >23MWh of throughput my eHome Wallbox dumb EVSE has started randomly tripping a 40a breaker. No visible scorching / issues inter After the third event today when there wasn’t anyone home and nothing plugged in enough is enough.

We have full control over charging time / current through the Tesla app and dont want the faff and failure points associated with a smart charger and another app that may or may not be supported in the future.

As such we are looking for a replacement dumb EVSE - the simpler and cheaper the better. And ideally one where we can reuse our existing tethered cable.

Any suggestions or recommendations ? Am happy to DIY it even if such kits exist.

My Truck has been at the Dealership since Saturday


Question for people who have got their Cyber Truck. My Truck was offloaded on Saturday around 10am at the dealership here in South Florida. The service advisor immediately sent me a text asking when I want to pick it up. I told them NOW of course.....They replied a few hours later and said I can pickup on Tuesday......

Now, this is the first delivery of the cyber truck at this little service station. Why do they need 3 full day's of my truck at the service center? I have my suspicion, but I wanted to hear from others what the average timeframe is once a truck is delivered to the service center, how long till they received it?

As a follow up question, how many miles did you have when you picked it up?

Planning on driving there this morning to see if my truck I paid cash for is being pimped out around town for their enjoyment, unless I hear from you all otherwise. Thanks!
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Cross shopping with Macan Turbo EV

Hey all,

I've had a 2022 M3P Red/white since December 2021. Originally ordered a 2022 MSLR but due to shortages at the time, the delivery was far out (april/may 2022) and I had just sold my old car for a good amount of cash (when the market was up) so I needed a car relatively quickly. Ordered the M3P and got a VIN within 10 business days.

I love my M3P, but I've had this lingering regret, wanted the hatch back, the air suspension, comfier interior, etc etc.

With the recent price drops, I'm now cross shopping the MSP (red/white, FSD, arachnids) with the new Macan Turbo EV. Part of me is leaning Porsche, the other Tesla. Configured, both are within about 5K of each other here in Canada.

Anyone else have thoughts ont his? Specifically with the tesla, it's the small things I think I will greatly miss on the Porsche, particularly:

  • Sentry mode
  • Ability to see the cameras from the app
  • Dog mode
  • Tesla App (I hear MyPorsche is crap)
  • Automations (on my iPhone, I have a bunch of automations to trigger defrost, car prep, frunk using Siri)
  • Continuous software updates/tweaks
  • Auto seat/steering wheel heating/ventilation (amazing how many cars don't have auto mode for this)
  • EAP/FSD (I don't have EAP/FSD on my M3P, but a friend does and it's nice, esp. for highway driving).
I have no doubt the Porsche will be better made, higher quality, likely more reliable. But it's the small quality of life things that keep pushing me towards the Tesla. My M3P has been perfect, no issues, hasn't been to the garage (maybe I got lucky?), and I put a full PPF on it, which I plan to do if I get the MSP.

Am I crazy cross shopping these, or leaning more towards the Tesla??

Raceland Coilovers

Hello, I want to start off by stating that I am not sponsored by Raceland Coilovers. I have been scouting for lowering springs for a while but due to owning the Model 3 RWD with the LFP battery the only company that proved fitment was Eibach. So I started searching coilovers and I constantly seen MPP, KW, Tein and a few others. But then in January I came across a few instagram posts of Raceland coilovers for our Tesla and I have to admit I was a bit hesitant till a enthusiast friend of mine told me he ran them on his 335i with no issues. So given his experience I pulled the trigger on them and for a little over $550 which is not much for a full set of coilovers. When they came in they were packaged nicely and upon observing the welds they were great. The front set were powdercoated red springs with gloss back body and came with their own set of nuts. The rears are powdercoated red springs and a matte black body and the oem shock mount bolts have to be reused. These are meant to be plug and play with no need of transferring your oem top hats over or shock mounts. Install took me about three hours in total for all four sides and it was way easier than my previous BMW m5. I would not that the rear rubber spring isolators fit nicely with no modification too. I am in love from how these handle after install, I went over bumps and they were not bouncy at all and the car feels nicely planted to the road. I would compare it to handle like the MPP coilover set that a buddy of mine installed in his model3. I took it out to an open parking lot and with the wheel fully turned there was minimal body roll. I do not plan on tracking my Tesla at all and this purchase was intended to eliminate the wheel gap and improve handling which I am glad it did! I will wait another week or so when I get my new wheels installed and for the coilovers to settle to get an alignment. As an enthusiast I have noticed there are products that are not highly talked about due to other competitors that completely flood these forums with brand ambassadors recommending products that they get a commission on. I am still a believer that there are great low cost products for our vehicles without the middleman markup! I included a few pictures of the Raceland coilovers before installing and afterwards to point out how they look and the quality of them. Let the comments begin :)


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Just took delivery of 2024 RWD, not happy with the audio. A few questions...

I replaced a 2021 Standard range/RWD with a 2024 Standard/RWD. I work remotely and it's a 2nd car for our family so the standard range has been plenty for our needs.
From various reviews online, people were saying the less speakers didn't make much of a difference, but I completely disagree. The extra speakers and sub make a significant difference. If you just listen to podcasts and talk radio it's probably fine, but not with music.
I'm wondering if anyone knows answers to the following questions:

1) Since the reduction is from 13 speakers to 7 (not including the sub), are the 6 speakers that are missing the following:
- tweeters on A pillar
- speakers on door near side mirrors
- speakers on tailgate

2) There are a few wiring harness kits out there for the model 3 that activate the speakers in the door and pillar. Is this the same for the Model Y (the speakers are there but just not wired)?

3) If I can salvage a factory sub and amp from a older Model Y, is there an existing wiring harnes this can this be plugged into? Not sure if this will work as the audio settings in the UI currently do not show a setting for the sub. Not sure if this setting will appear if a sub and amp are added.


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