Okay so I've only had my MY about 2 months but I've been consistently having some issues with the phone disconnecting randomly which leads me to need my key card to operate the car. I've been in contact with service about this and have done some steps and it has temporarily gotten better. However it appears starts happening again, and one thing that seems to be a result of the phone not connecting consistently is that I am not getting the windows open notification. So a couple nights ago the passenger window was left open and it rained, not terribly hard but hard enough to get the floor mat wet. I immediately dried everything out and contacted service once again about the issue with the phone not communicating properly with the MY. Although in the past they have called me to resolve the issue the person this time was texting and there were long waits in between each text from her. In the midst of a lot of redoing of steps including removing key cards from the car screen, the front passenger safety restraint system fault appeared which I notified her about. She then switched from finishing any troubleshooting steps which I was in the middle of, to setting up an in-person appointment. Said driving was still safe. So while driving to Thanksgiving yesterday these additional icons appeared on the screen. I assume the one means the airbags, haven't been able to find the green one in my owner's manual yet. Does anyone have any insight on anything from why my phone is not getting the "windows left open" notification, to this consistently inconsistent problem with my phone key not working and needing the key card, or the two icons that now have appeared in addition to the fault.
I have completely dried out the mats that were wet and everything in the car is dry, but it's also very humid here lately so I am running the heater and the seat heater a bit more this morning to see if I can clear the fault since it's been suggested in previous posts that the fault that has appeared is due to moisture around the seat. Still trying to figure out what those icons are.

Is there a way to get the wiper fluid to squirt without having the wiper blades activate? I'm trying to diagnose a faulty spray nozzle.

I have a '13 S p85+ heat went out and the tesla service center kept jerking me around with a rental 3 times. Nearest service center is an hour away and I have kids in daycare. All of a sudden started popping codes like crazy.

BMS_f107
BMS_w107
MGS_u008
GEW_w018

unable to drive voltage supply to low on center console battery at 18%

Tesla called me and said its not PTC , HV battery is hosed.

I thought timing was a little to suspect so I changed out the DC-DC converter, PTC heater with a gen 3, and new 12v battery in the hopes that it would fix the issue.

Now it fired back up with

DL_u014 - unable to drive voltage supply to low
GTW_w018 - Electrical system power reduced vehicle may shut down unexpectedly
BMS_u018 - Maximum Batter charge level reduced OK to drive schedule service
BMS_u008 - Vehicle may not start service is required
BMS_f107 - Service is required Schedule service.

attached are all the things from scan my tesla. Am I hosed ? HV the only way ? is there something I can do to reset ? Now I can not seem to get the charging port to unlock. It opens , but wont unlock when I click the button. = (

Happy thanksgiving !

Hello everyone! Whenever I try to purchase the HomeLink upgrade from the app, the item does not appear in the app for me to even click on to purchase. When I go through the website, the way it is worded sounds like the module is available for a 2018 M3. I'm wondering if this is something that I can purchase.

I hate using a sunshade for for windshield, and I know that using it helps keep the car cooler... but does it really protect the dashboard? Are there any long-time owners out there who have experienced cracked dashboards (and wished they had used a sunshade)?

Was rear ended on the freeway. Do you all think it’ll be a total loss or repairable?

The "Petrol Savings" bit of Charge Stats in the Tesla app seems to think that petrol costs on average $1.41/L these days (screenshot attached). The only way I can reconcile this with the $2+ prices I actually see at the bowser is that that this price is actually in USD, so it translates to a more realistic 2.16 AUD. The same seems to be happening with supercharger usage, where it's claiming ~40c/kWh when I actually paid over 60c.

Is there any way to fix the currency or manually adjust the price? I'm using manually entered AUD prices for electricity, so I can get accurate monthly reports to claim from my leasing company, but I don't see any way to do this for petrol or supercharger pricing.

Hi guys,
First post here and wanted to get your guys opinion on our Charging cable organizer mount. We kickstarted this project based on many Tesla owners I talked to (including myself) looking for a alternative to the garden hose holder setups to mount our charging cables. We spent close to 6 conceptualizing and revising the design to encapsulate the lore of Norse mythology and Tesla's design language into a mount that is functional. Its made out of Aluminum metal and slim mounts effortlessly with a large inlet to hold the entire length of the cable. Hopefully we did something impressive enough to share Let me know what you guys think.
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Anyone have a picture of the home charger opened up w the faceplate uninstalled, revealing the internal wiring? Charging handle was ripped off after car slide down driveway. I found replacement cable (used) on eBay yet took forever to come in. Total my mistake was not snapping a picture of the wire placement before disconnecting original. Thank you in advance! Semper Fi!

OK I’ve delayed putting this one up because it just sounds so strange but, my old model S didn’t do this but my new one does. When I’m backing out of my driveway and turn the wheel sharply, I get a crunchiness under my front wheels like the wheels are turning on sharp bits of gravel or rocks. It’s quite loud and makes a popping sound. I’ve got 21s on the car with Michelin pilot sport 4 or 4s I can’t remember. My wife has asked a couple of times if something is wrong with the car.

It’s only at slow speeds pulling out of parking spots, not usually going into them.

I was going to put my 19 snow package from my 2015 P85DL on this car and I guess that would tell me if it’s the tires or not, but I’m not sure if those will fit on the plaid?
Any ideas guys?

Thanks for reading and your help as always!

I noticed a small white pixel in the bottom left corner appearing when I shine a light to my display. Does anyone else's do this? The white dot is not visible during normal operation.

I discovered this while cleaning the display at night prior to installing a screen protector. I created a service request in case this is something but normal, but I don't have another screen to compare this with.

The rear power liftgate opens and closes randomly when I approach it. Sometimes only partially going up or down, but without the fob or remote engaged. Charge port usually opens whenever the liftgate acts up. Anybody familiar with this issue?

Hi, I recently bought a 2016 Model S and it came with only one key fob. In the interest of having a backup (and because my wife and I both sometimes drive the car), I want to get a new one.

I know I can have mobile service out for about $200 with a brand new one including programming, and I will do that if I can't come up with an alternative. I know it won't be easy.

Another fix I may need on the car before long is replacing the charge port since a) the ring light is out (I think that's separate from the port and probably part of the door/cover) and b) (more importantly) the handle lock tab is slow to retract, for some reason only when the handle is not inserted. I can hear a soft clicking sound as it tries about 3 times over 5s and then finally retracts, reliably so far, thankfully. Oddly, when the handle is in and I go to unlock it it seems to immediately release as I would expect.

So since the port will probably need replacement before long, I was looking at eBay for some lightly used or "new" versions of them, and there are some available for quite a bit less than the $300 or so Tesla wants for the part and the additional $150-200 they want to install it. I'm aware from some earlier research that you can't just swap an alternate part in but need to re-install the car software/firmware after the change so that the car will recognize the new part.

Of course one work around to this is to wait until you have an update to install anyway and wing it, or possibly go by your closest service center (about a 2h round trip for me) and once on their WiFi, get into service mode and *maybe* you can force the car to do the re-install there. Both of those prospects seem a little risky to me, so because I have this possible need and the key fob programming I may want to do, I thought I'd ask this:

Is anyone aware of any DIY kind of projects that have developed software that would allow an owner (with the right CAN or OBD, whatever hardware interface) to tap into the car and do key fob programming and also trigger the software re-install from home, without need for any of the other tricks?

I know it's possible because I've seen a couple of commercial software providers that offer packages they say will do this for you, but since they're intended for professional repair shops they're priced accordingly at about $3000 or so, and I'm not that eager to get into this.

So for me this is *partly* about saving a little money, but mostly about wanting to know a bit more about my car (I also have a 2013 MS that I've owned for longer) and figure I could save even more money over the years I hope to own these cars. And possibly fix some problems faster than waiting for service.

So, have I missed any such projects on GitHub or elsewhere that might help with this? I'm assuming I have not and unless I want to try tackling this on my own (I don't), I'm out of luck for now.

Thanks.

I recently received an unknown charge on my credit card I use on my Tesla account. On my credit card it says:
TESLA, INC. PALO ALTO CA $10.86

I have no idea what this is for and don't know how / who to ask. Supercharger costs always say Supercharger and my connectivity charges says something like that. And my connectivity payment isn't until December.

How do I find out what this is or who can I ask?

My credit card company says the only thing I can do is dispute the charge and they won't pay it.

Thanks,
Bob

I have a 2023 Tesla 3. My old car had a transferable SiriusXM subscription but the 3 doesn’t support SiriusXM. I know that there are module kits that can be installed but if I do it I will totally mess it up.

Is there any way I can get it professionally installed?

Auto Vox Wireless Solar Camera and monitor

I'm considering buying this to provide low level front vision in the cabin and overcome the park assist limitations of my new Model Y. Has anybody tried this product or a similar wireless camera please?

Note: I'm purposefully avoiding any product that requires power from the car's harnesses or wire fishing through from cabin to bumper, but if that's the better way...

Pirelli Scorpion Winter 255/50 R19 103H , MO, 3PMSF

I'm at bit unsure if they can be used or not? It's mostly the 103H that makes me uncertain.

Has anybody else on here experienced there main car screen keep on glitching and turning on and off for about 5 seconds?

Mine used to do this on the odd occasion, but as of the last week it has been doing this every day every few minutes.

Has anybody else experienced this?

Hi all,

For the past 15K miles with my Model 3, there has been a very strange feeling in the steering wheel and pedals around 67-68mph. It can be felt a little lower or higher than that, but that’s where it’s the loudest.

The issue presents itself as a pulsing low-frequency (200hz) or less noise, but only when steering left. The logical conclusion is wheel bearings but both the SC and other mechanic couldn’t feel anything. The problem is it’s only really apparent on newer roads, otherwise the road noise will drown it out.

I’ve already done the following:
-New tires (moved from Michelin CC2 to Pirelli P-Zero Elect All Season Plus
-Fresh balancing
-Fresh alignment
-Have the SC diagnose for 8 hours and still not totally sure on what it is

It’s honestly frustrating because I feel like I’m going crazy and nobody else hears it. Has anyone on here experienced anything similar?

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Best to listen to this with headphones or holding phone close to ear.

Second drive. Sounded like a rotor was rubbing on metal at relatively low city speeds. I have read elsewhere this can be a rock or pebble lodged in a brake or even a new tire label rubbing. Anyone else have this experience, and if so, what are recommended steps? Thanks.

Anyone know where have cybertruck in san jose? I would like to have a look cybertruck interior. thank you!

How is the co-registrant listed on the title of a new Tesla? Is it "AND" or is it "OR"?

Back driver’s passenger window not closing. Any suggestion for repairs in San Diego besides Tesla?
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What places could you recommend in the Puget Sound area that does exceptional tints for cheap? And what's the best percentage range for specific areas? (Trunk, Front & Rear Windows, & Upper Pano Windshield) (Mind you, this is for a 2016 X)

How do I know if my July 2013 LRY purchased in Fremont has HD4?