Is this clicking noise the bash plate needing to be retorqued that I hear a lot owners refer to, or is it something else?

Noise from outside:
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Noise from inside cabin:
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Hello

A new weird problem has started with my 2018 model S. Right right-hand headlight's turn signal is permanently stuck in glow. It's on all the time even if the car is locked or asleep.
There is excessive moisture inside the unit so my guess is something is horted.

The question is; is there some way to disable that light strip, even if it is destructive? It's quite powerful and lights up the whole parking lot at night.
The temporary solution is to disconnect the whole lamp while waiting for a replacement. Would the car be able to keep up charge on the 12v if it happened to be let on for days at a time?

Just got my Y a few weeks ago and loving it so far as well as my wall charger. 2 quick questions. Am I ok to keep it plugged in when not driving or pull it? Does it hurt the battery if I lets say only drive 50 miles and I keep recharging it up to 80 percent or I am I better off for longevity to let it run down to 20 percent and then recharge?

This past weekend, I parked on a gravel road at the back of the church due to being late. When leaving after the service, my car emitted a concerning sound reminiscent of a struggling accelerator, accompanied by a sensation as if I had run over something, despite the car moving forward. There was also a strong burnt plastic or rubber smell, which dissipated upon returning to the concrete road. Now, I'm experiencing a wobbly sensation and reduced traction while driving. Despite having rotated my tires and confirming good tread, I'm uncertain about the cause of these issues. Should I seek assistance from a Tesla service center or a discount tire to diagnose and address this problem? Does anyone know what this could be? sincerely a scared 23 year old woman

I plan to order a Tesla 2024 Model 3 Highland.
However, I have a question regarding the interior and seats.
Are the black and white seats made of the same leather in the Tesla new Model 3 Highland?
Are the black seats and white seats different only in color, and are everything else the same?

If anyone knows exactly, please respond.

Hi, ive recently discovered a problem with my CAN bus system, however tesla and other cars seems to be quite different.
I had some questions regarding the CAN bus system, as tesla have 5 CAN systems. And I'm experiencing trouble with my drivetrain CAN (CAN 3), is there any way that if one CAN system experiences fault it can affect the other 4 systems?
As when the car is off there are THC and RCCM error codes, but when the brake is pressed, every single unit on the DRivetrain can bus goes into error and gives fault codes. Ive measured the resistance and voltage for can high and low.

For pins 18/19 (CAN 3), its correct, however if u measure at the OBDII port under the driver footwell, between CAN high and low I get a 120 ohm reading, which doesn't seem to be correct.
Anyone have any ideas on what I could do?

Helaas brak ik deze onderdeel los. Weet iemands waar ik dit los kan kopen?

In the Tesla app, if you tap on "Refer and Earn", it brings you to a new screen with a big "Get Started" button, and 4 tabs along the bottom: Home, Earn, Redeem, and History.

If I tap on "Get Started", the second option there says "Order a New Tesla Product", "Get 10,000 credits", and there I can order pretty much anything. Do I get 10,000 credits from ordering anything from the store?

If I tap on "Earn", I can refer or purchase a new Y, X, S (but not a 3) and get 7,500 credits.

Just wondering what is the difference between these two options.

So, I got the pucks but when I went to put a jack underneath to lift car, the puck was in the way-height is too low for Jack-what type of jack do I need ?

I have not recently used ABRP. But last year you can adjust the date and time to calculate the routes in ABRP without subscribing. However I tried it today but couldn’t see an option to change the date or time? Has that gone under subscription? Does anyone know?

Hey everyone, we’re hoping to join the Tesla club in the near future. I’ve been searching for awhile and I found a 2015 Model S 85D that is in great condition…excellent almost. It has 103k miles on it but had a new 85kwh 400VDC battery put in by Tesla back in May 2022. The previous battery didn’t even fail, the owner just wanted to follow the suggestion of a new one put in at the 7 year mark. The car has free supercharging and is priced at $23k. We were ready to pull the trigger because it fell in our budget when we thought it qualified for the $4k tax credit but just found out it doesn’t qualify as it was 1) bought from previous owner and not a dealership and 2) was purchased after Aug 16, 2022. Do we suck up the unexpected $4k? Or is this not such a good deal anyways (tax credit or not) and we should continue our search? TIA!

My 2017 75kw MS (late 2017 with refresh) suddenly experiernced a failure of the power steering assist while driving, and had to be towed home. So far, the closest Tesla Dealer has not been helpful, indicating they cannot do anything remotely to diagnose the issue, which I find doubtful, and won't address the issue until the car is brought in for service. I'm over 150km from the closest Tesla dealer and so need to do some trouble-shooting locally in case things can either be fixed here or fixed enough for a road trip down to Tesla.

I figure the problem has got to be either software, electrical, or mechanical in nature. To that end, I've worked on the electrical side of things and checked for bad grounds (none), and bad wire connections (none) on the assist motor unit and torque sensor unit, and inspection has indicated no problems with the insulation integrity of any of the visible wiring. Mechanically, the steering links and steering gear seem to work smoothly when the weight is off the car (manual with no assist), with the steering operating smoothly from far-right to far-left, suggesting that there is no mechanical jams or excess stiffness in the mechanical linkages. This all leads me to point to a software (or firmware), or assist motor control-board, or torgue sensor issue, or a failed assist motor as the culprit, at which point there should be fault indicators in a technical log somewhere. If I had some understanding of Tesla's remote analysis capability (ie over the car's web-connection), procedures etc, I think this would enable me to be more specific about what Tesla can do to help trouble-shoot this issue remotely. There is also the question of whether Tesla's mobile service would be able to provide diagnostic capability physically connecting to the car's OBD connector.

If anyone can provide information on the sort of remote diagnostics Tesla can do that might help shed light on the problem, that would help me a lot. Any thoughts will be welcome.

My 2018 Tesla S is not charging on 3kw or 7kw at home. I can charge my sons Tesla S at my house with no issues. I can also charge my Tesla at work at 7kw with no issues.
I have tried different cables, switched my home charger with my work charger and made no difference.
When I try to charge at home, it starts to prepare (flashing green) to charge and disconnects, tries again, disconnects, tries a 3rd time and then the red light comes on.
No issue with Tesla superchargers or any other high kw charger
Any ideas ?

I have Model Y 2024 and its seems to be rattling from the rear paranomic roof glass. Anyone experienced this and if so what would be the fix? My car is in service and i am not confident if they can fix it

Kuntal

Bear with me as I describe my migraine headache with a fairly recent purchase of an 11 year old 2013 Tesla Model S, P85+.

I was brand new to Tesla 9 months ago when I purchased a used 2013 Model S, P85+ with low miles on it from a Mom & Pop car dealership here in So Cal. As usual my sales person said what most say when you're looking at buying any used car. "Its great, it has low mileage, its a great price," etc... But wait, he said, "we replaced the motor recently with a Standard motor." My response was "Great you say you replaced the motor, that's awesome." "Yes", was his response. "We put a standard motor in this P85+."

Being absolutely new to Tesla that meant nothing to me. Fast forward 2 days later and I purchased the car. Of course I eventually noticed that my dashboard and 17" screen never showed P85+, it showed S85. The VIN# on my Tesla App says that I own a P85+. Carfax shows that I own a P85+. Even Tesla headquarters confirms that the car is a P85+. Every detail on my car, including the badging shows that this car is a P85+ however both screens on my dashboard show that its a S85.

My unfortunate dilemma is when I attempt to sell the car sometime in the future, what model is this car? Is it simply a P85+ with a Standard motor? That's like pulling a V8 out of a sports car and replacing it with a V6, right? Confusing at best.

I'm not blaming the dealership but it would have been nice if they actually took the time to truly explain how significant swapping the motor out of a P85+ with a Standard S85 motor truly was. Knowing what I know now, I wouldn't have purchased the car. BTW, the dealership is out of business and my insurance company is billing me for a P85+.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Try not to kick a man to hard when he's down, I just need some help getting back up, thanks. I attached recent pictures to this thread.

Hello,
I found a 2022 Tesla Model 3 with 109,000 miles on it. Since it is 9,000 miles past the Tesla warranty, Would I want to get the Tesla insurance? or would it be better to go through someone else like Allstate or something? Also, for peace of mind, I would want an extended warranty. I spoke with a Tesla rep, and he stated that the warranty is only valid if I purchase my Tesla from Tesla, not any other dealership; he also said that the only extended warranty to get on a used Tesla is the one included when purchasing through Tesla there is not another one to buy. I saw that @XCare offers an extended warranty, but they don't mention whether it has to be purchased from Tesla.

Any help with this would be a great help,
I am hoping to purchase by the end of this week.

Howdy,
My NEO Gateway has the no signal and no ethernet lights on. We contacted Tesla because our last one had the no signal light on as well and they sent a new NEO gateway and the new one was connected and There is a link light on the port on the back of the modem. There was never any instruction that you have to do something to connect it to the solar panels. Just plug it in to your modem do a power cycle on the panels and other equipment but nothing about logging into it in any way. Most other wireless equipment you have to enter a password to show that you have permission to be on that device if not anyone can login into my solar equipment I would think.

Does anyone know if the '21+ Tesla Model S wheels will fit pre-21 Model S?
I'm thinking about putting the 19" Tempest wheels on my 2016 -- without wheel covers
I believe the bolt pattern is the same at 120mm x 5, and the offset is the same, though the wheels are wider, I don't see a problem with clearance. the centerbore on the earlier wheels is 64.1mm. If the later wheels are the same or larger, it can work.
On my previous Model S, I put staggered 20" Model X wheels on and the 9.5" wide rears were just fine, even with 305-section tires.

Hello everybody, is it possible to change the charing port socket from nacs to ccs if yes does it require more parts than the socket it self? 1490374-20-C

I had my Tesla Model S 90D 2015 in for service about a month ago to replace the battery fuse and a broken window. After the service was done and i went to pick up my car I instantly noticed a hissing sound from the A/C unit, but didn’t think much of it to begin with since i didn’t need the A/C at that time. Now that it’s gotten hotter outside and i actually need the A/C, it doesn’t work anymore. It blows out hot air, even with multiple times of powering off the car, etc.

My question is: Since this problem started after it was serviced by Tesla, should they cover the A/C repair? I got an estimated quote of 1000$, but i don’t know if it’s worth it to fight it. What should i do?

Hi everyone! I recently upgrade to the McU 2 on my 2015 Model S 70D and was checking out the new features in service mode. I ran a thermal test and All was good aside from the Temperature_Sensors which failed. Does anyone know what this could be? Thanks!

This is my first post ever so please forgive me if I’m in the wrong spot.

For unknown reasons, a large list of radio stations suddenly disappeared. Does anyone experience the same thing? Thanks a bunch. Nicolas

Hi, has anyone replaced a rear parking sensor themselves on the Y? Damaged one against a wall the other day and looks a relatively straight forward replacement once the rear bumper is detached - but was wondering if any computer reset was needed once it was replaced? Otherwise it's an expensive garage job... Thanks!

I have quite a strange problem, the car warns for almost everything, DI,DIS (inverter) fault all antispin/EBC system all safety systems snd so forth, disabled, car goes into limp mode (Front DU disconnects), you name it. However, when unplugging the charge port connector. (The 12v small one not the HV system) all the errors dissapear. And the car works just as normal. And only some errors remain. (Pic below)
Anyone have any ideas of what this might be?
(When cable connected car goes haywire, gear flickering and so on)

Does anyone know if adding a spoiler to my model 3 will reduce my range? I really like the look of a carbon fiber lip but range is important for me. My round trip commute everyday is 124 miles so every mile counts

Thanks in advance, hope someone’s already done this with their highland model 3!