Recent content by atokosch

Yes, this is what I found too. All failures that I have seen (including mine) have been rather quickly, like within the first 500 miles. My second drive unit has been great since 271 miles and I am now on about 12k miles.

The clicking noises are the high voltage relays engage and disengaging. Those are nothing to worry about. As for not being able to drive, sounds like you may have had a drive unit failure. I had one within a week of picking up. It isn't fun, but can happen. Thankfully the drive unit seems to be...

This is typically what I get on a normal drive. I was just saying that I have seen it be in the 1000s when I only drove half a mile, so what you saw was normal. Depending on driving habits, you should be somewhere between 210 and 230/240 even when driving at around 70mph

That is great, just verify that the rear seat doesn't have any wrinkles in the leather when you pick it up. If it does then they will need to replace the seat if it isn't addressed and corrected right away. I didn't notice when I picked up my car and they had to replace the seat because the...

This is normal, especially when you have only driven less than a mile. I have seen it in the 1000s when I only drove half a mile, so it’s not a big deal.

Sorry to see this. Yes, drive unit failure is correct. I had mine fail around 300 miles, but I have been fine ever since and I now have 6.5k miles in less than 4 months. It sucks, but it can happen. I asked Tesla for feedback about why and they put a ticket in but I never heard anything. Not a...

Oh thats awesome. Thanks for the info. I will check it out.

Ahh okay, I see. I wasn't sure if the neural network was able to be updated without a physical firmware update, but what you said makes sense. I have only had my Model 3 for 5 weeks now so I didn't know that updated maps via the cloud could help in the driving of the car, and from what I...

Just looked it up, you guys are right. I forgot that they dropped the external heater in the 3. Not sure if that was when the issue happened, but haven't heard anything from Tesla, so I am going to assume that I never will... :(

Any idea what is in the latest update? I have a Model 3 and just got 14.7 yesterday (4/18), was on 12.1 before that (got that on 4/13) and before that was on 10.5. On 10.5 my car was slowing when coming into turns after 4/9 when similar behavior was coming out with Model S/X on a new 14.x...

Sorry, just realized my post was quoted... It was about 40 degress F out that day. I was under the impression that the motor was used for heating when the car was moving or/and it was stationary and there was excess heat that could be used. Unless the motor is going to draw less power from the...

Just wanted to give a little update on my car. Heard from Tesla service center yesterday (Monday, 3/26), the drive unit on my car had a fault and according to the advisor blew the fuse on purpose, so that is why my 12V battery died. The service center worked with engineering pretty much all day...

Thanks, but ughh... still hoping that it is a software bug or something related to software, or as someone mentioned too, a loose connection. Really, hoping that it is a quick fix and they don't have to do any major replacement or parts on the car.

Okay, thanks for the info. Hopefully that or a software issue was the cause. Hopefully I get my car back with 10.1, but we'll see. I have since purchased a jumper battery and put a 9V battery in my bag so that if this happens again I can at least try something without involving Tesla, kinda...

How would that work if the car was in an accident and the 12V is still powered on? I thought the main purpose of this was so that emergency responders could open the frunk and then cut the 12V power line to the battery/relays? The reason I used it is technically not the correct use, at least...