Recent content by dc443

As per original OP #1 they asked, is "Watch app for Tesla" by Kim Hansen the one to get or not. Both of you have quoted "Watch for Tesla", and this seems to be referring to the same app but I can't be 100% sure. Can you please confirm?Sorry to be pedantic. But it's $20.

AP1 2016 model S here. I used to get my text messages on my iphone delivered in the dashboard. It would make a sound and give me a prompt allowing me to choose whether to read it out or not. After the recent update with the new UI (I actually like it, it gives me one button access to the...

@CarsonGallo How is this working out for you? Those MOLLE organizers seem… a bit much. But curious if it was a good solution for you. I have a model S so I’m looking for the mesh one that you linked that you originally said you wanted, but now I cannot find a place to buy it. A tacticool MOLLE...

This is neat! Unfortunately I'm on AP1 and don't get sentry mode, so not sure how much I could benefit from this knowledge myself, but under 200W is decidedly not too bad. I'm very curious what your 1KW load is! Based on my ScanMyTesla app observations I could agree with this but I don't know...

I'll play around with it some more. Definitely jumped to this conclusion without a lot of data gathering.

Nice, I haven't exactly seen those types of units, that is cool. Yeah I think a DC powered PC build would be neat. But for my personal use I would want a single high spec SFF PC that can take as input either 120VAC or 12VDC with reasonably practical hotplug interface and 400W or so of capacity...

My 2016 post facelift AP1 S has now been upgraded to 2021.24.4 and SMT is no longer working. Does anybody know what's going on?

Yes. At this point in time, there are not quite any widespread adoption in high end pc parts of 12v only motherboards but I think it will come around within the next 5 years for sure. I forgot to mention I also had the diagnostic port under the MCU hooked up to an OBDLink MX+ and was using the...

Driving back from NYC this weekend I noticed my dimming mirrors had stopped dimming. I don't know what the cause might be but it may be somehow related to the fiddling around I did with the rearview when I was originally trying to run the 12V ACC to dashcam hardware kit. I ended up giving up on...

As I understand it, (older?) model S (of which I have one) is ok to tap 12v (and draw from it at rates that are within sane reason). For 3 and Y this is not as feasible due to the car detecting the drain on the 12v battery and assuming at that point that the battery is degraded/defective. But...

I see. Pretty much all fuses are populated on mine! The SC replaced the blown cigarette port fuse for me for free. Maybe there are some spares stashed in here. I’m slightly worried that this passenger panel will become loose from all the repeated opening up and closing I’ve been doing lately…

Pretty sure the best solution to this one is a direct tap on the 12V battery, because any other solution to keep the 12V accessory powered on will power on the car computers which will draw 5x more than your fridge (when it runs…) If it’s only for the fridge then you’d only need wires that...

To clarify for posterity they are F202 and F207 listed here: Tesla Model S (2015-2017) Fuse Diagram • FuseCheck.com Both are blue 15A fuses so it indeed does not seem to matter which one to tap. The 3rd and 8th from the top on the left side tall column of them. I’ve got these posi-taps that i...

OMG I’m an idiot for not considering the cornucopia of connectivity options at passenger footwell, which is far easier (it’s along the way…) to run to the dashcam area than the center console! Thanks for that reminder 🤦‍♂️

Wonderful. The ability to pop out and put a larger cup is great, I wonder if it’ll be strong enough for that much liquid but I could easily reinforce the 3D model myself if necessary. PLA is what you used, I’m assuming?