Recent content by flashflooder

I just tried at my local service center in Charlotte, NC and they denied warranty claim on it. When I asked if it was covered as part of battery warranty, they said "NOPE" Such bullshit, when this is an obvious defect.... they should at least cover the early adopters as a sign of good faith...

The RWD (at least my 2018 build) has 3 legs in the PCS. Capable of charging at 40A from a 14-50 or 48A from a wall connector. I am here because 1 of mine just went bad, a few hundred miles out of warranty. I can only charge at 32A at home now.

I have the required updates (and beyond) on both my 2018 M3, and the iOS app but this just does not show up for me. I was enrolled in the FSD Beta for a few months, but opted out about 2 months ago - FWIW.

My observations were mainly about cruise control (though I did notice minor regressions in other areas as well). And I can tell you, unequivocally, that the adaptive cruise control experience is made MUCH worse by the removal of radar. I don't keep up enough to know about what stacks they're...

This was my experience to a T, and the reason I ultimately opted back out of the Beta. The phantom braking while using cruise control is just downright embarrassing, not to mention dangerous. I am not at all going to be happy when/if they push Vision on me again, unless it has progressed...

sorry to threadbump, but... I think you'd be crazy to sacrifice the front door woofers. They are very unique in how large they are, I upgraded mine to Focal ISU-200's (along with the tweeters), and it sounds fantastic. edit: sorry, misread.. you were talking about the rear door speakers.

I almost forgot, I had to wire in a relay circuit (detailed in another post in this forum) to prevent audio cut-outs. I never got any error messages per se, but Tesla changed the behavior of the car at some point and the 12V switch circuit that I had tapped into was causing the amp to turn on...

Yes, and the amp does stay powered on until the car goes to sleep (usually ~20-30 minutes after getting out). But the draw is so minuscule that it doesn't bother me.

I just bought the Michelin Pilot Sport 4 All-Seasons. 25k miles on my Primacy set and I'm down to the wear bars. Also in NC.

Happens to me, music over BT from iPhone. This has been going on for about a year, for me.

My LC2i no longer gets the yellow "overload" light, either, where it used to at about 50% if I cranked the sound all the way. It is outputting a little bit of sound to the amp, but turning the gain knob does absolutely nothing.

I did not get an error, but I've got some extreme weirdness going on with my system after that latest software update (may or may not be related). My LC2i and Rockford Amp both come on when I start the car (LEDs are on), but the sound output is practically nonexistent. I went back to my trunk...

I just noticed that my radar detector and aftermarket amp, which both tap off of the VCLeft connection, are off. This used to happen when the car “blew” the fuse after seeing abnormal power drain when the car went to sleep. When I first made these connections, they would shut off after the car...

The firmware line is their go-to when they're stumped. And FWIW, I almost always have mine below 77 and still get it. Personally, I haven't been able to figure out the conditions under which it happens. There seems to be no rhyme or reason.

As far as I know, it is. I still occasionally get it, and all I've seen are reports that Tesla techs are stumped / can't replicate.