Recent content by JasontheBeaver

Ceramic coating will do nothing to help this situation because they are not designed to react to this substrate. They will act more like a wax and provide minimal short-lived protection.

Once the anodized coating’s sealant is removed, there’s nothing that can be done to permanently restore it. All the fixes people suggest in here are just temporary cover-ups. The only permanent fix is replacement, period. A PPF shop can apply black vinyl (like a chrome delete) to mimic the...

Waxes do not damage ceramic coatings, but they are useless and aren’t recommended on matte-type finishes because they’ll accumulate in the more textured surface. An OptiCoat No Rinse type product is the best choice for washing any matte-type finish, whether it’s ceramic coated or not.

Great! Glad you got it protected. I’m sure you’ll be 100% thrilled with their work.

I’ve never heard a single complaint about the quality of Alset’s work.

Welcome to Oregon! I can help you get the protection you’re looking for. I know what it’s like to have a car that you want protected and looking great for years down the road. New cars aren’t cheap so we might as well maintain them huh!? I’ve specialized in ceramic coating Teslas since their...

I see all the Portland area PPF guy's work regularly in my business, and I recommend Tony at TCTWraps. Fantastic quality of work from a small shop that takes their time to do it right.

Yes thy are the same, people just use different terms to describe the same type of product.

OCNR will freeze at 32F; your ready-to-use anti-freeze will freeze at let’s say -20F (they all vary but it’s printed in their label). So if you dilute it 1:1 with OCNR then your new mixture will freeze at 6F because that’s halfway between 32 and -20. To calculate the freezing point of...

Auto parts stores carry washer fluid anti-freeze. I dilute mine with OCNR down to about 10F because I know my area will never get colder than that.

I think the RPM Tesla mudflaps are the most factory-looking. I also recommend only installing the front ones, the rears aren't needed due to the design on the rear of the Model Ys...

I've used Sameday Scratch & Dent in Beaverton countless times over the decades. Not the cheapest, but they'll guarantee their work and your panel won't look like it was blasted from a shotgun from the inside like so many of the other guys I've seen.

I would start with the RPM mudflaps in the front. You can certainly have PPF applied to the lower portion of your doors also, but the black textured plastic rocker panels don't do well with PPF as others have mentioned.

Lacquer thinner and very light pressure with a MF towel, let the solvent do the work, not brut force. I do this almost daily at my job; removing client's attempts at DIY paint touch-up.

I prefer the RPM flaps, and just installed another set this morning. They look more "factory" than the OEM ones too.