Recent content by Jeecups

So I fully charged the 12v and reinstalled. Car powered on (MCU powered up, AC was blowing air, all lights work etc...) In the hour or so after I put the fully charged 12v in the car while I was screwing around, the voltage dropped to around 10v. DC DC never clicked on. Eventually the 12v lost...

Good suggestion. Thanks! Dumb question, but does the DC DC only supply power to the 12v while driving (like an alternator)? I have it off the car now, in pieces since I was checking the fuses. Is there any other thing that’s testable with it off the car? Just removed the 12v to put it on a...

For clarity, I never replaced the 12v with a lithium battery. I replaced with an AGM battery from EV Tuning As to the $1200: The first 400-ish was for diag and to replace the EV Tuning battery with an OEM battery. I didn’t really think that was the root cause, and that was confirmed when the...

Good point. I’ll investigate that. Thanks!

It’s just a regular AGM 12v that’s the correct size and has the terminals in the correct place to match the OEM. The OEM that Tesla uses is basically impossible to find, at least for me. I believe that’s correct. Interesting idea. It might be something to try except that the car won’t...

Hi all, Kinda of at the end of my rope with my ‘12 Model S (and with Tesla Service.) Model S started displaying the low 12v message, and, assuming Tesla would charge an arm and a leg, I ordered a replacement from EV Tuning. I installed it following a couple of YouTube videos. It really wasn’t...

Just updating this - I was able to get in touch with someone at the service center and was told that connector is the Ethernet, and unrelated to the instrument cluster.

Hi all, My out of warranty 2012 Model S was recently at the service center for a Service Required issue. I was told it needs a new DC DC converter and given an estimate, which I declined. Upon the tow company dropping my car off, the smaller instrument cluster display was black (it had worked...