Recent content by s-hysteria

I have a late 2016 XP90DL with upgraded MCU2, HW3 and FSD-eligible and am also stuck on 2023.26.12 for a few months now. I've not followed the Tesla community for a while but felt Autopilot getting increasingly unreliable or unable to engage, often due to sun/weather or camera obstructions...

OBD2 is under dash. There are other options around the back, like the auto-liftgate.

They fit physically, but LED headlights are CAN bus controlled, older HID ones not. The plug is the same. DLRs work, but nothing else. So you can only upgrade LED headlights to the raven version.

After troubleshooting my setup I realised I had mixed up a Tesla wire and had also missed a connection on my trailer connector. So all is workin 100% now. The Tekonsha Zero Contact box is definitely the best option. I power it from the permanent 12V coming from the OBD2 port.

I went down the Zero Contact route. As I'm in Europe I also needed to hook up an extra converter to get a dedicated stop signal. Indicators work well so far, rear/running only on the right hand side of the trailer, stop not at all, if hazards are on, suddenly both rear/running lights run as...

Can’t confirm that. Had the same experience on Tesla WiFi as recently as October after just driving up and parking for a while.

Excellent. Also happy to test and help with UK manufacturing contacts or distribution here if needed.

Hi @artsci, How far have you come in the process to make the custom T trim? I would really consider this but only if I can retain the hood, latch, drunk trims etc. Also, it would be reversible. Unplugged have been uncooperative in terms of offering me a viable solution installed in the UK...

Ignore that. It's there, just not when forum is viewed on a mobile browser.

Just trying to find the link for this again, it used to be in @artsci 's signature but no longer is. Are they all gone?

I asked Unplugged. They say - and I still struggle to compute this fully - that they are fabricating all parts, not just the T insert. They say the entire bumper is their own, too. Given what we know from the thread it would appear totally OTT as all that's needed is a list of Tesla spares for...

Would be good to add a message of that nature instead of an access issue so people don't get confused the way I did..

I would think you get the most accurate mould by @artsci re-asselbing the car to the point where the gap is visible again and then make a physical mould. I'm not sure this can be done solely virtually without having actual Tesla CAD data. I would hope whatever comes out of this is better...