Recent content by twiersum

Had my car off for a month now getting fault with those errors & comm problem & powertrain problem. I thought it wss the battery but apoarently it comes comes & goes. It comes on immediately when I open the trunk. Anyone?

Installed new 12v battery at 12.9v...was UB12120 not YB12120. Fault with error codes & non driveable. Reinstalled the YB12120 that Gruber installed at 7.2v and it all went away. Crazy!

Its us darn near 2"

Before you criticize me just know that I will never sell this car so I'm unconcerned about resale value.

It's not dirt...it's carbon from the brushes INSIDE the sealed motor. Car has 49k pem & motor clean.

It had the dual blower.

I've been wrestling with the annoying beep for a few years. After talking to Peter I decided to get new connectors back by the motor. That didn't work. I decided to pull the fan and clean the motor. Once I separated the cover I blew compressed air and it was thicker than a 6.7l diesel...

I guess I'll cancel the rest of my rally cross events. For anyone that's interested I used a 2" bump stop on back which was perfect.

I forgot this forum is only full of naysayers & know it all critics that love to hear themselves talk. I remember now that is why I quit a few years ago....too many people warning me not to rebuild my battery, my plexi cover would kill me and on and on and on. Good grief!

I had to firm up the springs to keep them from rubbing. lock tighted and blocked the inner lug nuts so they can't loosen.

Yes, need to keep contacts closed. I accessed the HV wires going in to motor. Turned off 12v and emergency disconnect...pulled plug over plastic cover, checked for 0 volts, removed bolts on HV wires. I then drilled holes in plastic cover and used metric studs with nut inside to tighten HV...

I have been planning to set my new home up off-grid in Socal. I knew I could use S modules but it seemed counter productive to pull apart the car and have to re-engineer the amazing hvac and charging Tesla has designed. So I bought a salvage but driving MS and hacked into the HV wires...

Peter at Gruber mentioned his docs state 3.36v is equal to a 1% SOC which would mean it is probably 3.3v to 0% and 3.2v shutoff...same as Model S. I am going to run mine down to below 3 4v and reset my soc parameter and I suspect my range will increase. We'll see.

Good find. That correlates with what I found in recovering the pack....the system woke up at 3.0 volts. However, the curve doesn't look like many capacity tests I've seen where there is still significant capacity from 3.7v down to 3.2v.