Recent content by wiztecy

FYI, I work with embedded Linux systems testing them and looking for failures. My expertise of 20 years is with Unix embedded systems. At my current company our test units have no power button and we do as part of our daily tests abruptly pull power on a running system, so no clean shutdown...

Linux will do an FSCK check of the filesystem and automatically fix things if needed. Only bad thing of pulling the plug on an OS is that you can't guarantee your data will be written and that same data will be there after the reboot sync memory wasn't flushed and synced to disk.

From what I know about the battery cooling threshold, those are the same for the 1.5 / 2.x's. However what is different is the PEM cooling thresholds. The upgrades the OP discussed are with the blower upgrade on the 2.x's, the upgrade gave them a dual blower/fan with a single motor. This...

If you can see pressure readings in the VDS then it appears the TPMS sensors are functioning. I believe you can take the Roadster to any tire shop and they should be at minimum be able to read the TPMS battery level. I'd check that out first, but don't hold me to that. Its a "should" that...

12 miles is low, I'd expect it to have kicked in a charge around 20 at the lower limit. If you don't live an a climate where its extremely hot or freezing I honestly feel the best way to put the Roadster into storage mode is to pull the ESS service disconnect. The battery holds up for a long...

The rat took it up there. It has chew holes in it plus it chewed on my CD case. My friend said these varmints like to sit in places that are warm at night, so my Roadster was parked in the front of the house where its sunny during the day. It holds the heat though the night so these creatures...

So today I checked the fuse block by the passenger side that's inside the cabin, all fuses appear to be good. In doing this I found one of my yellow shop rags tucked up into the under dash area by the foot-well, by the VMS box. I pulled it out and its chewed up as well as rat droppings fell...

Agreed, the 1.5 TPMS thread(s) and these solutions were from my hunt to find an affordable alternative to the $400-$500 Tesla priced one which we were stuck to. There's no need to go any other route then Tesla for the 2.x's since they already are at an affordable price point. While we're on...

I didn't have any rattles or creaks to start with but I did have a very hard and harsh ride whenever I hit bumps or uneven surfaces. Switching out the stock shocks for Nitrons helped, but it was the combination of both a good set of shocks / springs combined with the spherical bushings that...

I did pull the lower PCB out, had to do that to tighten down the loose HV+ line and also to inspect that R4 solder point. The solder point on the lower portion of the PCB looked fine. All of the solder points and lines look good as well. Interesting enough the bottom of the lower PCB board is...

Buttoned everything back up after tightening down the loose lug, still get the same errors. Note that if you don't put on that external ground in the HVAC 400V Control box that the Roadster will immediately fault out, plain old yellow fault on instrument panel. Nothing shows up on the VDS...

In taking out that PCB board above I found the far right HV+ line or lug (gold) is loose! Possibly vibrations took its toll on it, backing it off and then when I hit that bump in the road jostled it enough to cause a spike down the road. Still pulling the board out but that's another oddity in...

So after talking to my friend, that resistor / solder point from the 400V control box lower PCB (red circle location) it appears a little bit suspicious. He said it appears it got hot there and recommends re-flowing the solder at that point. I may try that this week and see what happens...

Here's some of the pics of the opened HVAC 400V controller (top and bottom PCB), the resistor that has the odd solder pattern as well as pics inside the PEM showing the fuses.

Will do when I get the time for the pics. So the (V_ess too low during precharge, T2) is an error code indicating that there is too much capacitance on the High Voltage Bus or possibly a leakage path that is drawing down the battery during precharge. While I had the time I popped the PEM cover...