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We ordered MY LR 11/28/20. Estimated delivery 4-5 weeks. Took Delivery 1/5 in Alaska

Definitely a head turner.

Locals have known about plans at Whistle Hill in Soldotna for some time. Unfortunately this is nowhere close to the Alaska Hwy.

259 can be caused by low coolant level or bad pump.

You verified that the micro switch on the access port on top of the PEM is working? You will not get high voltage from ESS if any of the HVIL is broken.

Do you have a picture of the connection on the circuit board? Did you have to modify the circuit board?

You guys are killing me with this “Y” switch. It’s called a double throw switch. Number of poles depends on application, ie double pole or triple pole.

Carl did the sound deadening upgrade on our car and it made a big difference from stock. But the car is nowhere near as quite as our Model S so don’t have unrealistic expectations.

The last pins I bought were less than a dollar each and are easy to replace. Not sure why a person would monkey around trying to fix them. If my better half was stranded on the side of the road because I saved four dollars I would never get to drive her car again.

Nice job digging deep. I’m pretty sure 3005 is a communication fault which would make sense, but I don’t have any definite information on that one. The acuator has hall Sensors to know the position of the pawl. I’m guessing you already have checked the wiring harness to the TCM and the...

One source. YMMV. http://www.digipas.com/documents/Effects-of-Galvanic-Corrosion-on-Au-Sn-Plated-Contacts.pdf

That is the proper fuse. I’m afraid I have no more suggestions. Hopefully someone else will reply with more information. Good luck and keep posting on the repairs moving forward.

I do not know the location of the TCM. Have you tried rebooting the VMS? If you are familiar with the service menu I would try inhibiting APS and unplugging the VMS. TCM gets power from APS and CAN messages from PEM.

Have you checked the fuse for the TCM? It’s on right side between PEM and boot box.

Molex 0194270032 tin Digikey WM17505-ND Replaced mine in 2016. No trouble since. Molex has a good web site. You should be able to find the # for the gold plated ones.

I like the ‘crew one’ on the shirts.

More and more L2 charging all the time. Three now in Talkeetna. A couple in Palmer. A nice place in Soldotna with at least three. Two near Cantwell. Chena Hot Springs has 2. At least one in Homer. There are several, if not more in Anchorage. Cordova even has a couple if you take the...

If the connector is damaged and you are unable to release the pins simply cut the connector off and start fresh with a new connector and pins. These things are inexpensive. The gold ones are a good suggestion. Remember to replace the PEM side too, as it is no doubt by now compromised. I...

I can reach it, just barely. Pretty sure you will find exact instructions for this by searching the forum. Damage can result if you screw up but it is not hard. Don’t break the latch or immediately plug it back in. Disable APS first.

I have car schematics, not PEM. I’ve never seen PEM schematics nor hear of anyone who has. The ESS heater/connector would not have anything to do with your symptoms. I think the ESS heater is active when the charge port is flashing blue but never really confirmed that. I get lots of that...

the fan connector is a two stack 90 degree. The ESS heater is the next one over and has six pins, 3x3. Five pins are used. Do you need the car schematics? Kind of looks like someone did a poor job of installing the CIC board in your PEM.

Look at photo #4 in post 39 for a hint about how the pins are connected to the board inside the PEM.

I’ve always pulled mine solo. Except the first time when Carl Medlock was here. A helper for 5 minutes would do it. Don’t expect much from the cat, they don’t appreciate sports cars. If you are sure it’s not the motor or the wires or the connectors that pretty much leaves only one thing.

according to the spec sheet maximum current is 28A. Depends on static pressure.

Yes, you could reach the board mounted connector that way but you can’t get the connector or the board out because it is screwed to the PEM from the bottom.

It really helps to remember Ohm’s Law when diagnosing with a multimeter. Just because you measure 12 volts with the meter does not mean that you will have enough current to drive a motor (or lamp). If the connection has an impedance of 120 ohms you could only push .1 amps through it...

Both connectors are toast. You need to replace the right angle Molex connector inside the PEM. I made a temporary fix once by cleaning up the pins from the PEM and soldering on a pigtail that’s mated with the connector to the fans. Eventually opened the PEM and replaced the connector for a...

The VDS, VMS, instrument panel and a few other things are powered by the standby power which comes from the ESS connector J4 pin 1 (+12v) and pin 2 (ground)

It is not difficult to remove the PEM yourself. There are very good instructions in this forum. Look at the sticky threads at the top of the list of threads. People regularly remove it for annual cleaning. Once removed you can ship it to your preferred repair facility. I believe there is a...

The car has three sources of 12v besides the aux battery. The APS has a main 12v output, a separate APS 12v output that goes to the PEM and there is a small 12v output from the ESS that powers the standby 12v. From my armchair location and limited qualifications it seems those are all working...

Confirm a couple items. Previously you said the car would not move, even in tow mode. Will it charge? The rear trunk lid will open with the button on the dash? The glove box will open with the button on the dash? When you pulled the fuse for the TCM by the PEM did you check for 12v in the fuse...

The diagnostic connector you posted a picture of will be the DC Converter 12v. If you raise the front bonnet then near the wind screen on the passenger side you will see this fuse. Not sure if placement is reversed on right hand drive cars. Pull the fuse and measure the voltage from each...

i am able to reach in and pull it without removing anything. Granted it is not easy and even slightly painful but doable. Just part of owning a TR. I am 6’ with long arms :). Don’t forget to disable the APS first.

the latch on mine was broken and the internal bulkhead connector was cracked. The cost to replace the whole thing myself was low so thats what I did. The results were better than expected. I believe the connector was loose due to the broken latch and cracked body and that was what was causing...

See posts 20 and 28. If you do not have 12v on the mentioned wire then that may well be your problem also.

Starting last night I lost connection. I unchecked the tls Box in WiFi? (Maybe it’s in network) settings and then it reconnected. I’m guessing something to do with the certificates.

OK. Worth a try for sure.

I performed a factory reset and went through all 5 steps of the wizard again. The modem does not appear to work. The ICCID number never populates on the configuration screen. WiFi is working fine. In status I just see modem powering on... I’m using the same antenna as I had for V2. Any...

Looks like I’m definitely missing something... maybe time to start over

On the hologram website my device says “Ready”, not “Live” like in the video.

Looks like I am connected over WiFi just fine. My phone app shows good data

I activated the sim last fall so it has been a bit over 30 minutes. I’m not sure about the 5 steps. I set up the OVMS at my main HQ last fall and the wifi has worked since then. I have just now gotten HQ2 connected to wireless and that seems to be fine. Still no cellular... the car was...

I opened my module and checked that the SIM card and board were properly seated. I don’t see anything obvious. This seems to say that I’m not registered. I visited my Hologram acct and it says all is in order and the sim is ready. I tried reactivating the sim after double checking the number...

I have never gotten my hologram sim working. I went through the setup on the module and it looks ok except I never had it read the sim#. I entered the sim# manually in hologram when I set up my acct. I have a hologram acct with $20 in it and there is a device listed in my account and it says...

Ok, but normally you would pull the fuse and check the battery side. Max should be about 12.7. When the car is ON the APS charges the battery through the switchpack with about 13.6v. Something like that. Either way I don’t really think this was your trouble.

You should check the aux battery. Especially if it hasn’t been replaced in the last couple years. It might not be the cause of this problem but if it is not in good shape it will be an upcoming problem. I honestly don’t know if the APS is always on. I didn’t think so. No one else seems to...

#21 is correct. Trunk release and door locks (among other things) are controlled by VMS so it sounds like that is working. If the APS overheated on low ESS coolant it could shut down and cause this error, as reported by others but you should have seen more errors and warnings. Have you pulled...

There is also a fuse for the TCM (transmission control module) in a small fuse box on the right side of the trunk by the PEM. Some vehicles may have a single in line fuse.

I think losing 12v to the PEM or VMS would cause this. If not the connector on the PEM then it might be the APS itself. Any work been done on the car lately? Accidents? Custom work? The APS is buried in the ESS. Verify that VMS works by trying trunk release. Check VMS fuse #21. Try...

I agree. Cheap preventative maintenance.