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Mine seems fixed as well. 2022.16.2

I agree. There should be a section added to the owner’s manual describing the jack process. It is very strange that there is not. Also I’d like to see them add some sort of decal under the car indicating the importance of lifting only on the lift points. It is so important to get this right, and...

This is encouraging. I've tried everything I could think of and nothing had any effect on the blue jean stain on my seats, but have not tried Oxiclean. I have not tried chlorine based bleach yet either as I am concerned it might harm the material. I suspect Oxiclean may be a bit less harsh.

Great chart. Looks like Tesla really shines in the efficiency numbers (Wh/miles). They may overstate their EPA range a bit but their battery and motor technology must be extremely good to get these low consumption numbers, especially given how powerful the cars are. Well done.

I agree. Same for the MY. The acceleration of the P is nice but I prefer the higher suspension and taller sidewall tires of the LR for Winter weather.

Right! 16K more *and* a 12 month wait. So sad. We can only hope inflation doesn't continue so that even today's price looks cheap a year from now. ;)

Hard to believe the MY is now 16K higher than when I bought last July. I would not buy at this price. I simply could not afford it. I understand the supply and demand makes sense for Tesla, but I think the new pricing has put these cars out of reach of many people. If only I bought 2 (or 3) ;)

So did you guys buy a a few in that 3 hour window down there? ;)

Ouch! Hard to believe they have increased so much. The MY is now 16K more than when I bought it last July. I could not afford it at today's price. Wish I bought 2 or 3 of them ;)

In fact the installation instructions for the WC say not to install it on a GFCI protected circuit if I remember correctly. It has its own built in GFCI as you pointed out. Maybe having two GFCIs in series does something weird?

No, they are still for sale. Seems shipping for such a big flat box is expensive. That’s why. Hopefully someone in northern NJ or NY can pick them up.

Why would a higher voltage system (over 150v) if it existed be excluded? Just curious.

Also, with the wall connector you can run 2 conductor cable instead of 3, which saves even more. WC is the clear winner if cost, convenience, safety, performance, and appearance are concerns.

I'm no expert, but I'm pretty sure that wireless Apple CarPlay requires both a bluetooth link and a WiFi link. The WiFi is needed if you want to play lossless CD quality audio. The bluetooth is for control. We know Tesla has the bluetooth link, but that only gets us compressed audio AAC 256. I...

Great looking car! Already looks perfect for any mom or dad. To give it a feminine touch just role the window down :) Ok, if you must change something fairly cheap, paint those red calipers hot pink?

Just as a follow-up. I opened a service ticket on this issue and Tesla got back to me and explained it is a known problem and will be fixed in a future firmware release. They were very thorough and requested exact dates as to when the red X appeared last, and asked for my permission to close the...

That's really interesting. I didn't realize the mechanics and optics of reading the physical disk were a contributing factor. A/Ds and D/As have a similar problem even today (though not at such low sampling rates as CD anymore). They have a spec called Effective Number of Bits (ENOB) that is...

I agree the compressed mp3 crap we all got used to over the past 30+ years is the real deviant. Call it "LoFi". I'm okay with CD quality being called HiFi though, because if it's done right it should be pretty close to ideal. The CD format (44.1kHz/16bit) may have been around since the 80's...

I prefer the LR because it sits higher and has smaller wheels with higher sidewall tires. To me both of these are advantages on rough roads and winter driving.

I believe there are two separate coils in the cabin air handler. One evaporator and one “condenser-like”. Octovalve details show independent and simultaneous flow of refrigerant to each.

The hotspot is essential to hear any difference. However, once a song is played in HiFi it is stored locally and can be played again later without hotspot. It gets a blue HiFi icon next to it alerting you to the fact. Nice perk.

You are fortunate to have ears good enough to hear the difference. I tried so hard to myself and could not. Maybe with a direct A/B switch I could. I am really impressed at how good the compressed audio sounds on my MY system actually. Perhaps one sad benefit of not great hearing.

All of the sudden mine is working again as well. Could Tesla have fixed something without a new software download I wonder?

Rebooting and reformatting did not help in my case.

Same here. I charge at 40A even though I could go to 48A. I figure lower current is a little less stress on everything, and I am not in any hurry. 30A would be fine as well.

I get your point, but I don't think it is silly. One could just as easily argue "Do you really need a car that can go 0-60 in 4 seconds for everyday driving? How many times did you have to go that fast on the highway?" It's the same sort of argument. We don't *need* either of these things, we...

Glad I found this thread. I have been experiencing the same dash cam problem for the past couple weeks. That quote from Elon's tweet does sound like he is aware of the problem. Glad it's not just me.

That's interesting. In my breaker box the neutrals and grounds are all tied to the same bus in no apparent order. White and bare intermixed. Do some locations require physically separate busses?

I had a rear door panel in my 2021 MY replaced by a Tesla service call at my house, and while the panel was off the technician showed me there is a fully functional mechanical door latch with cable connected to it, but the cable end is just hanging there not attached to an interior handle. He...

As mentioned previously, your longest trip average showing 302 wh/mi over thousands of miles is typical, and indicates energy consumption while driving is normal. As for where "other" energy goes I cannot overstate the value of TeslaFi for this purpose! It will show you exactly where energy is...

The following distance seems to have no predictable effect as far as I can tell. No matter how I set it, it just seems to follow as far back as it likes, and is often too close and too far in the same drive.

I agree. Although it will work fine of course, it is very important to distinguish between ground and neutral. Someone might see the white wire and assume it is neutral. I'd swap it to use the bare wire for ground. Should be simple fix.

That's the way it works on my car as well, but it seems some cars are different based on reports here. It might no be possible to disable auto high beam if FSD (beta?) is active. I don't know because I don't have FSD. But yeah, I disable it by the left stalk every time I activate AP.

So happy to hear this! Tired of having to pull over and stop to get out of AP jail.

Oh, Maybe you have fsd beta? On my regular AP Model Y forward flick just toggles auto high beams on/off with no flashing.

I can see where someone might think that because they look like two 50 amp breakers in parallel, but in reality they are in series. All the current that flows through one also flows through the other. As mentioned above, it's a 50 amp circuit.

Flick stalk forward, not backward.

You know what’s funny? I have the 3D MAXspider floor mats (front only) brand new never used and I would trade them even up for a set of OEM carpet. Want to trade? :)

We also gave the ID.4 some serious consideration. It's nice looking, and the 7500 tax incentive makes a big difference for sure. You're buying into a lot of unknowns with a VW EV though. I hope they are successful. We sure need more competition. Model Y price is so high now.

Btw, for anyone wishing to estimate shipping costs, the box measures 32x22x5 inches and weighs 6 lbs.

Yes, I still have them. Still in the box. Send PM if you want to buy them please.

I agree. The fluctuations are too extreme to say much about battery degradation with resolution any better than about +- 5%. Btw, I have a very similar capacity chart as yours with a big drop in Winter and recovery in Spring. Not sure what the weather is like where you are but here in NJ USA I...

Exactly. It is like a gas gauge not telling you how many actual gallons remain, just that the tank is 25% full. It’s still very useful, but gallons would be even better because that tells us the actual quantity. This is exactly why I’d like to have an option to display battery in kWh. Showing...

True, and this is pretty much the same as percent of course. The problem is, with a battery your “gas tank” is getting smaller as the car ages. To take the ICE analogy one step further, a battery meter that measured in kWh would be like a gas gauge that measured in gallons. I would much rather...

I’ve been saying this as well. The “range” shown by the battery icon is really just energy remaining times a fixed scal factor for the particular model of car. So yes, it is really an estimate of energy and I’d like to see an option at least to display it in some standard units of energy as you...

The result is correct if your battery really is 82 kWh. I'm not sure of the actual usable capacity of the M3. Note: I am assuming 10000 was a typo and you meant 1000. (1000/251)*82 = 326.

The most important thing is to use a puck designed for the car’s jack pads. You only need one. Using a jack stand sounds risky as I don’t see how you could keep it from sliding off the jack pad and puck. A simple floor jack and one puck under the pad near the rear wheel is how Tesla roadside...

Agreed. His choice of words was confusing. I wish he would offer a clarification. He should make it clear that the “error” referred to is in the algorithm, not the human. It is merely revealed by the human.

I think this is exactly what Elon’s comment means. The human driver’s actions are the truth data, and by definition are the correct response. Any time the driver has to intervene to correct the car’s decisions this human input represents the error signal to the Automated system. It indicates...

Are you sure having the radar makes it any better? I’ve heard plenty of stories that claim AP/TACC is just as bad with or without radar. It sounds like in your case the it made a big difference. When you run with FSD with radar deactivated is it the same exact performance of vision only cars...