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Not at all. They can be written that way (like the Tesla app which needs to work as a key) but it's not a requirement nor the norm. The disable/force is there for things you don't want installed that the carrier forces on you, or something that misbehaves.

Ahh yes, because a tiny, mismanaged Li-Ion couldn't be killed in a year either. You can kill a Li-Ion in one charge if you charge it below 0F. They are much more complex to manage.

Software also doesn't work this way. Just because word is installed on your PC, doesn't mean it is doing anything until you run it. All of Tesla's functions are not running at the same time, and "disabling" them wouldn't do anything. If it did, why wouldn't Tesla just "disable" beach buggy...

Did you spill water on the seat or passenger seat?

Yeah, that too. Tesla insurance is an awful idea for anyone that ever tracks their car. They hit you for "unsafe driving" while doing something that they don't even insure, but is making you a better driver. Big data computer algorithms will save us all though.

Lots of ICE batteries are not under the hood. I had a BMW whose original battery lasted 13 years and was still going when I sold it. It was in the trunk. Plus, it's continuous heat that kills them. 1 hour at 150F under the hood is not worse than 12 hours at 100F just because it's 100F out. So...

What? 481 wh/mi over 30 miles is far from a high score! I did 1500+ over 15 miles this weekend, and I'm at >500 wh/mi over the last 7k ;) I wonder what I could do if my car didn't handle like trash 🤔

Too bad @dfwatt has me blocked or he'd hear me say that the BMS max voltage is not the issue and it's trivial for Tesla to detect a LiFePo4 battery without triggering the high voltage protection in a BMS. Just look at the resting voltage. Any kind of sophisticated lead acid charger has a...

Your trip computer shows you the energy consumption for any trips it has... So unless you have reset both A and B recently, you have a long term reading right in the car.

This is likely very location dependent, as heat really does impact battery life. My 2017 Model X battery and my 2018 Model 3 battery are both original and fine.

I know I would never, ever remember this all 12+ times a day I need to. Just this weekend I ended up with a rock in my rotor and had to park the car to get rid of an awful noise. To remember to reboot before putting it in park? Good thing I bought a car "with all hardware needed for FSD" but...

Ok, I mean "Adjust" tire pressures? They will for sure be wrong after a run. And yes, I run 0.5 PSI accuracy. And I don't run TPMS in my race wheels, because what's the point.

1) That is crazy, having to remember to do a reboot after every run when your adrenaline us up, everything is busy, and you need to hop out to check tire pressures. 2) If you are any good at AutoX, your safety score is trash from normal driving :) 3) The reboot doesn't work anymore...

It does not, you get judged on the track.

Because the car can't tell what size the wheels are. But it can tell the diameter, and grip. I assumed the Zero G was closest to a sticky 275/35/19 setup. But Interesting note: I was wrong I was in the Zero G config. I had the car on one of the dark 19" wheel options. I set it to Zero-G before...

I keep saying it- I've hooked a 30Ah LiFEPo4 pack to my car with NO BMS. It always gets detected within two weeks. It's more complex than just having a BMS cutoff. And other batteries do have issues: https://www.teslaownersonline.com/threads/quite-a-number-of-error-messages.20307/ Max LA...

Tons of info on the internet and TMC says it does. So if it doesn't, I'm just the messenger. https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/soft-vs-hard-reboot.208067/ https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/radio-issues-and-spotify-question.204096/#post-4933570...

Autocross. That's less than 70% of the distance on the power. It's just that it averages energy use on like a 1/3 mile bin, so you can't see any detail. That's actually a bunch of 1 minute runs with 5+ minutes inbetween, but it's by distance, not time, so none of that shows up. I've done the...

The other aspect here is they are training repeat users to not use that latch every time. If it damages the trim or window 1:1000 times, it will probably never happen with a random passenger fumbling, but if you use it every time, one day you will be in a rush, leaning on the door, moving quick...

The irony in all of this discussion is that it was started around a Model S fire. And in the model S, per the Tesla manual: The estate here is arguing about the EXTERIOR handles not working, and we're all discussing the interior handles as if they would have saved this person even though they...

Because race car. But my lifetime average over the last 7K miles is 506 wh/mi: M3 performance lifetime average Wh per mile

Still winning, this was on flat ground. ;)

I assume it has tradeoffs, or Tesla would have done it. I mean, why did they go to the electric poppers at all? I bet this was not cost driven. Most people aren't comfortable about talking safety vs cost. How much would you pay for this? Tesla has sold 2M cars, so if this costs $10 per door...

No. This just tells you what hardware your car had from the factory. The 15V Lithium batteries from Tesla use a lot of different HW in the car. The fact that they are doing this likely means they have features coming that require specific hardware that you otherwise have no idea you have.

No rational human runs positive camber on the rear end of a Model X, so I don't know what you are asking for. 290 mm gives you -0.4 degrees TOTAL, it doesn't change what you currently have by 0.4.

Wait until you hear how the Model 3 works on the front and rear doors.... I love that you give an example where you couldn't operate even the simplest device in the car, so no simple solution would have saved you. And you were fine, because in the end, there was no rush to get out of the car...

You're replacing every single joint in the suspension because you have no faith in them? How do you evaluate an aftermarket part to be better for sure? While it's no 911, I don't think I've heard anyone call the Model 3 handling "trash." In fact, the car is so fast it's in SCCA's top stock...

Yes, negative 0.4, when the car is set to LOW, on a Model X.

So you're saying Tesla should not be selling these cars? I guess that makes them somewhat at fault for selling a product that endangers the average purchaser and the public around them?

I can't figure out if you are saying Tesla shouldn't sell 1000HP cars to anyone that shows up or if they should but it's the driver's fault.

M3P in track mode with stability control at -10, bias 50/50. Whatever the pretty recent SW versions are over the last 2 months.

The reason I doubt it's the wheel sensors: I ran hundreds of runs on 265 RE-71's and 265 PS4S's and never had this error before. I changed to A052's and on the third run had this issue. It now happens every ~10 runs over multiple venues. I've run 50+ runs on PS4S's since, 4K street miles on the...

275/35R19 A052's. Published diameter by Yokohama is 26.6"

The other thing that misleads people is that places where you end up using regen a lot is in the city, but the efficiency comes from lower overall speed as well, not the stopping. Yes, 30 MPH with a bunch of stop and go using regen is way more efficient than 55 MPH, but 30 MPH with no stop and...

My issue wasn't the lack of regen when whatever is happening to me happens. When it happens to me, the first thing that happens is TC turns off and the car goes totally unstable, spinning one or more wheels. Then after I back off the power, the car highly limits power for the rest of the run...

Nope. About 3 weeks ago, tesla made all their service manuals free. Just go here and sign up for an annual subscription, which is now $0: https://service.tesla.com/service-subscription

Super interesting that you did get a 12V warning after, but as you can probably guess, you can't reset a car without power, so your 12V could not have hard failed like it has in other reports where it strands the vehicle. I'm still interested what reset she did- two scroll wheels (soft), two...

Glancing around the internet, there seems to be the same question with other platforms. Replacing both a toe and camber arm seems questionable. Some think it's OK as long as the toe arm uses identical geometry except length change. Others not at all. There's also an issue with the arms you pick...

Yep, I'll double check everything, but this is where I am too. It's happened 10+ times, never once on the street, always resets when I get out/back in. I really don't see how damage could be so reliably intermittent. Got an AutoX this weekend, gonna check the wires and then try a different...

5 links solves all of this.

Yet again, nobody can link to one of these ubiquitous posts. Like I keep asking, did it happen to the people you personally know in the last 6 months? Nothing before that is relevant, Tesla completely re-vamped their 12V failure detection and behaviors. Super interesting that you suddenly came...

Please link to one in the last 6 months, where the owner was stranded by a dead 12V battery. I keep asking, nobody responds. Yes, it happened in the past. Tesla fixed it in firmware. This fix messed up Ohmmu batteries because a LFP "12V" battery IS a messed up 12V lead acid battery. The correct...

Look at Flybyglass' post history. Literally 1/3 of his posts include the word "Ohmmu" and over half are about 12V batteries, and he repeatedly posts the nonsense that the reason the Ohmmu has an issue is that the BMS takes it out of the circuit, and acts like it's something special that Ohmmu...

I always love the "every 100 lbs should give you 0.1 seconds!" You realize the car weighs 4,300 lbs and does 0-60 in 3.2? So you're saying it should go 0-60 in 0 seconds if it weighs 1,100 lbs, right? Plus, why would taking 2.3% of weight away increase acceleration by 3.1%? You'd also need to...

Modern firmware versions don't let this happen. Once you have the message that the 12V is bad, it stops going to sleep, which is the only time it needs a 12V battery. Even if the 12V dies, the car will be OK. The old case of a "dead car" happened when the 12V died while the car was asleep, which...

Interesting thought. Thought I had checked this before, but worth a very close look again.

Tesla's 12V detection method on a Model X in 2019 has nothing to do with their detection method on a Model 3 in 2022. My 2018 Model 3 battery is super healthy (based on checking it outside of the car) 3.5 years later.

Appreciate all the thoughts! I don't get it with RE71's or PS4S's, so I do wonder if it's due to the last 0.1G a really sticky tire can give. It's happened both left and right. I have checked my sensors. Given it only happens with specific tires, and only in high speed corners (meaning not a...

So for people running A052's or other very sticky tires, is nobody else having traction control freakouts? I mentioned a while ago that about 10% of the time, at some point during a run, I'll get a traction control malfunction in the car. This disables ABS, regen, and highly limits your power...

That's a very specific example, and the restriction is placed on Tesla by the Gentex corporation (who owns Homelink). This part has the same restriction on other brands. Yet you can walk into Tesla and buy a 12V battery, wheel hub, shock, seat, etc. They will happily sell you almost anything...