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No where close
Camber wear I would expect to look more like this vs what I have. May just be a combo of the PS4S plus slight toe out from having it aligned to 0 toe with no ballast in the car (and I'm no small guy). Maybe I need to go for slight toe in.
Yeah it’s odd, this certainly isn’t “normal” camber wear, I would expect normal tire wear just biased to the inside of the tire. I just ordered 19x9.5 wheels and will go with 265/35/19 DWS06+ for street use, I’m sure they’ll hold up better than the PS4S
Destroyed yet another set of PS4S on just the inside edge. Anyone else running full front camber full time? I'm thinking this looks more like toe wear but we dialed it in for 0 toe on the rack. Wonder if I need to go back to swapping shims :|
Like most SCCA rules they seem out of touch with reality and most people aren't fully class legal anyway, I ran a short throw shifter for years in SS/AS in my C7. lol.
I always have a wood block in my sub trunk, otherwise you’re never getting a jack under it in an emergency. I also run 12/10 on the street and 5/5&4/4 for AutoX, I think some of the single adjustables may just be a knob under the Frunk but not sure.
MPP sports can be adjusted on the ground. Turned wheel to get to compression and the rears just need creative parking on a wood block to get enough rear fender gap on a lowered car to get to rebound.
Front rebound is easy with the frunk in… a drill, 3D printer and a long reach 2mm hex key to...
Handling balance I would leave at 50/50 or go to 45F/55R if you really want to rear bias it slightly. The car runs full power F/R in a straightish line anyway and AutoX has a lot of different inputs so the transition can do some weird stuff.
But yeah join us in the AutoX thread lol
I’ve set FTD on 300tw PS4S back in my supercharged 620rwhp C7 corvette… talk about a handful. I do think running on them for years improved my driving once I switched to RE71R and now RT660
I agree with the above.
I ran one year with just 255/40/18 RE71R's and it was frustrating from an understeer and tire wear perspective. Then I did MPP Sport Coilovers & MPP Front Upper Control Arms and switched to 19x10's with 265/35/19 RE71R and had a much better time, took FTD 3 times and won...
Nice newbies are getting 10.12 while I’m still on 10.11…. I couldn’t care less about the FSD stuff but I’m getting tired of being months behind mainline releases 😑
Hrmmm I never quite had that feeling going from a 14 C7, the Tesla is decent for it’s weight (much better now on a bunch of MPP parts) but the C7 would have run circles around it in lateral grip.
But it’s awesome you’re enjoying it, it’s a great car.
I'm finally starting to jive with these 660's, I bumped pressures way up to 40F/38R yesterday and the car felt fantastic. Still getting slight rollover on the fronts, may go to 42 next event.
Anyways, took FTD for the second of 4 events this spring. We are on break until September now but I may...
Event 3 was yesterday. Carlin has certainly tightened the gap this year with his LR AWD, Updates to the party box have him really happy and me sweating.
Still trying to figure out these 660's and what pressures make them happy. I used to run 32 in my RE's and ran 33.5-34 yesterday but they...
I tightened it until there was an obvious reduction in movement behind the swivel. Here’s a before with it just making contact and an after. There was an immediate difference.
Finally got mine in… for anyone struggling with getting to the adjuster and jam nut (I tried with a stubby 13 for a while) a 13mm (or 1/2” in my case) crows foot on an extension made quick work of both.
19x10 et35 MRR M600…
What don’t you like about them? In 2 events so far in less than ideal conditions I’ve been 3rd in raw and FTD. Seem to be doing just fine
Not intended to be backhanded at all, mine would loosen after 4-5 Autocross events so I kept a pretty close eye on them until I changed them out for the MPP bearings
I guess I’m confused as to what needs fixed? Retorque the bolts to 100ftlbs and move on.
Also I see a pic of the car on track in your profile pic, those bolts should be checked after every track day if not every session if not using the MPP Solid FLCA Bearings
Totally forgot about having to drive up (I usually used summon) on wooden blocks just to get my jack and pad under it before.. but my old jack had a metal pad and I wasn't comfortable with metal to metal. So much better now that I dont need them.
I use Authy for my entire life. The cloud backups were a life saver last week when my iPhone decided it didn't want to stay on for more then 30 seconds before rebooting. Made switching to a new phone effortless
I added the control arm bearings to my setup this spring and they have been phenomenal. I did the compression rod inserts for now until my stock bushings tear as I wasn't ready for the NVH commitment but I will get them eventually.
Event 2 was yesterday, it was a crappy rainy day and I didn't get any dry runs. I managed to take FTD on a wet run and then I had to sit and watch as the lot dried up and Jay in his 2007 GT3 on A7's got to make 3 of the driest runs of the event. He got within 0.059 of me and then the skies...