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Or go for the Ghost module for even more smiles! :)

Follow the commissioning procedure to tell the hpwc what breaker it's connected to

It is unlikely to work with three phase, sadly. Does the car have any notifications?

L1 to L2 at 200V is reasonable if the power is coming from two of three phases(usually 208V), but the car shouldn't be reporting ~236V in that case. Unlike standard one-phase power of a typical residence where the two 120V legs are 180 degrees out of phase with each other, on a three phase...

I'm not sure how the Gen3 deals with three phase, or if it does at all. The Gen2 could accept either two of the phases as L1/L2 and give you 208V(which is fine but slower), or even one phase(277V) to ground as L1/L2, which gives a whopping 13kw at 48amps. How long did you leave it connected...

I gotta say... I've had pretty mediocre results with glass crack repair. I had Safelite out(for our CRV) to fill an impact that was barely the size of a dime. Wife said it looked the same after they were done. Fast forward a few weeks, and its a 6" crack and the entire windshield was...

There's absolutely no risk to the battery regardless of the outlet's power. If it goes well out of spec(short of perhaps a lightning strike), the car will cut off charging. It may or may not actually be a 240V outlet, since some commercial/large-residential complexes might have 208V circuits...

See if the receptacle says "leviton" on the plastic. Unless given specific instructions and extra money, an electrician will install the cheapest/crappiest outlet they can.

Ya, no way that's anything over 22kw(80A x 277V). The power cord would literally be in flames at 72kw.

www.plugshare.com will find local chargers, and some will probably even be free.

+1 vote for just getting the Tesla version. Also consider asking nearby SC if they have them in stock locally, as I know that the 14-50 adapters were frequently available in the SC when they were not orderable from Tesla directly.

Charging table - time to charge at 120/240V considering efficiency+ might be worth a look.

Yes, and not much. 120V charging is around 80% efficient, while 240 is a bit over 90%. The difference is that the car is kept awake for the duration of the charge event, and takes like 250W or somesuch. That's a decent amount of overhead on a charge session that's got maybe 1440 watts. Its...

If its overheating you should probably be getting a flashing red light on the charger. That said, its under warranty for four years so they should replace it if it isn't determined to be your house wiring at fault.

I have no answer to that. Perhaps a door/trunk was left open causing the HVAC to run all night?

There's also the Bullet Mole Horizontal Drilling, Boring, Trenching, and Piercing Tools and things like it. Totally avoid trenching except a bit at each end.

Its heating the battery initially, or if you are actually sitting in the car when checking, its running the HVAC which will absorb pretty much all you can get from a 120V outlet.

Need some more details about your panel/service/loads. Is there no way to avoid the trenching? How much charge per hour do you really NEED? It seems a bunch of people think the only allowable current for an HPWC is 60 amps, which is just plain wrong. If you aren't going for an HPWC would...

This sounds a lot like the Apple battery planned obsolescence scam.

The EU apparently beat him to it. EU agrees single mobile charging port in blow to Apple I don't expect that Apple will support both lightning and USB-C ports, nor make different connectors for different markets, so I think the Lightning port will be gone soon.

If you are handy, take it and put it on ebay or something. Clearly don't pay anyone to remove it. Cap the wires and tuck them into the junction box(if there is one!) and put a blank plate over it. If there's no junction box, I'm not sure I'd remove it. Sure, you could disconnect the wires in...

I never understood CHAdeMO, with its absolutely giant connector and no fewer than EIGHT signal wires. I'm not sure what those eight wires are for, but it seems to me that four would be way more than enough to communicate what needs to be communicated. I'd also wager that three or even two might...

SOMEONE is paying to make them 'free', I assume tolls or state taxes. Doesn't California have some of the highest state income taxes in the nation? Do you really want that to expand to a national scale? I get we want free stuff. Its awfully unfair to the people who DON'T use their cars a lot...

Yes, like that, except where the rate per kwh is reasonably close to the local rate, not triple the local rate.

About f'n time. :)

Remember that the UMC only carries a max of 32 amps, so they can definitely use 8 awg even if they had to follow NEC rules. Since they don't, they might even be able to use 10AWG or somewhere in between(9AWG). Since the cable itself is definitely a custom build I imagine they could ask for a...

Yes, replacing the wire with 6AWG would be good for 50 amps, and that's as high of a breaker you should put in if you intend to keep using the welder/outlet on the plug. Why not run another 6awg wire alongside the current wire and just make a dedicated EV charging circuit, or make it 4 awg and...

Your current circuit isn't even acceptable to use with a welder! That looks like 10AWG wiring, good for 30 amps(24 continuous like on an EV charging event), and you have a SIXTY amp breaker on it? Even the outlet itself isn't rated to handle 60 amps. 1) yes, you can use that wiring with a...

Adding an extension cord means at the very least two more significant failure points. Both the line voltage spades of the extension cord are under high stress, and you are adding N feet of unprotected cord that might be physically damaged anywhere along its length. You also should be concerned...

They seem to have renamed tow mode to two different things in the latest manuals. The old tow mode I was referring to is now called 'transport mode', while the new 'towing something' mode is called 'trailer mode'...

Did you ever have a Tesla that charged at 80 amps continuous? If there's really a 100A breaker on the other end of those wires that's a horrendous fire hazard, apparently installed by your electrician. In addition to that, right below the "Use copper conductors only" I see a stranded aluminum...

Is there a reason NOT to? It costs you nothing to do the experiment. BTW, what are the actual specs on the tire you've installed. The 'normal' 19" tire is 235/40R19, which would rotate very slightly LESS often for the same distance as the stock 235/45R18. If you had installed 245/45R19...

TBH, if its a short run I'd probably bite the bullet and buy some 6-3 or even 4-3 copper. Its much easier to get aluminum installed badly and burn your house down. Additionally, have you already picked out an outlet(hint: don't pick leviton!) and does THAT even support aluminum? How about the...

I see your dial indicator is set to D, meaning this HPWC is set to potentially deliver 80A continuously on that 100A circuit. What is your tesla actually charging at? That conductor absolutely needs to be 3 gauge or larger, and it might not be. If you switch to a Gen3 HPWC, the maximum...

Its acceptable, for sure. 125F is only 51.7C, well below the 75C rating of the breaker terminal, It might be worth noting that the wire ampacity should be considered reduced a bit due to the ambient temperature, but its probably not a big deal.

COP worked fine again today for me. Regarding your fan in auto climate, it may run at max for a short time, but should settle down to a quiet speed once the cabin is at the desired temperature. Does the climate screen actually say '10' for the fan speed when its set to auto? Have you tried...

Its extremely unlikely to be related to the 12V battery beginning to fail. You could get a Tesla battery installed via the support center, or get a 'group 51R' battery and install it yourself. There are several threads about various makers of lithium based 51R batteries here on TMC, but the...

Sorry, model S wheels have a 5x120mm bolt pattern and Model 3 uses a 5x114.3mm bolt pattern. They might seem to fit, but they'll be super dangerous. I'm not sure you'll even be able to get nuts on them, TBH.

There were never software updates available for the Gen2 HPWC. What you got from the factory is what it lived with forever unless maybe the Tesla connected to them was capable of doing the update to the HPWC, which is extremely unlikely.

Presumably while the inspector is there they will be able to look at the breaker and then it's no longer an assumption. To my knowledge, breakers are made exactly to be used that way. They protect the wire(and to a lesser extent, the hardwired equipment on the other end) from overload. Taken...

I'm pretty sure Tow Mode is intended for short distance rolling up onto a flatbed, and is not referring to the tesla towing anything. I'd also wager it goes out of Tow Mode the moment you put the car in any gear other than P'ark. Even with an extra few feet of cargo carrier, I'd expect that...

Yes, I suspected that might be it. I'd argue that the 'tool' you need to change the setting is your phone, and you need access to the device in person before you can connect to the wifi to reconfigure it. Additionally, as long as the breaker is properly sized for the wire, the absolute worst...

I've read it(https://esasafe.com/assets/files/esasafe/pdf/Electrical_Safety_Products/Bulletins/86-01-4.pdf) and don't see anything about the minimum branch circuit wiring or breaker.

Where do you get that information? It sounds rather dubious, since the wall connector can be set down to a 15 amp breaker.

I'm the only one that drives Stacy's Mom, and consequently COP has always been enabled, almost exclusively set to "No A/C". I did indeed check the app... The setting in climate is consistent with the setting in the car's display. The 'Climate' section on the main page of the Tesla app never...

So, a few things have happened. I messed with the car color in the toybox over the weekend, and almost immediately my screen hard-froze, I did the two-thumbwheel-reset(first time in like a year) and things were fine after that, with the screen. Surprisingly, I parked in the sun today and...

I wonder if its a defective outlet. If nothing else, I'd put all four conductors on the correct (in)side of the triangle, and if you need it to be tighter for the ground, fold the last half inch of the ground conductor over once or twice to give it extra diameter. You shouldn't really have to do...

Yes, excellent example. Clockwise is indeed the right direction for tightening. The conductors strands are supposed to be captured inside the triangle of brass, not outside the angled brass pieces.

You've answered your own question. I meant I suspect it was a bad install job. Circuit breakers are supposed to be extremely reliable at their jobs, so unless the breaker was installed poorly or the panel is known to be of dubious construction, they shouldn't be bursting into flames. It'd be...

If the HPWC doesn't look like it was affected by the fire, it probably wasn't. The panel enclosure is explicitly designed to contain fires. I'd be REALLY suspicious of a bad installation job, assuming your panel wasn't already on the list of "These panels will burn your house down".