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@dimitar.ns I second that. I need it too, the reverse sound is terrible. Also, could you make some buttons on the dashboard. It will be easier for me to click on auto wipers on the dash than it is to click wipers button then turn auto. Any news on the long click and perhaps winter mode, did you...

Are these all V3s?

This section doesn't work for me. I am on the latest Android version and 2.6.2? commander firmware I believe. With which version does this info work? It just shows 0 or NAN.

Hi @dimitar.ns , thank you for taking the time to reply. Actually, there is a "smart-snow mode" that Tesla introduced into the Model 3 Model Y firmware not long ago that forces the car to go into 50/50 mode. You can see with ScanMyTesla that immediately 50/50 front and rear get activated. But...

I rest my left hand on the indicator too so it never leaves the wheel either. Nevermind then. @dimitar.ns Are you here, any news on the long press, automated AP activation after lange change, snow mode and disabling battery heater with a button?

I don't use 2 hands. I have only one hand on the 3 position as in the picture and my middle finger is resting on the stick (other hand is resting on the door handle) . Not sure, but I think you still are doing something different than me...Or your fingers are shorter. I have it as a button on...

You are doing something wrong then. Your hand doesn't need to leave the wheel at any times to activate AP - just put your right hand over the 3pm position and hold the wheel and then just extend your middle finger over the stalk and double tap it. I always wondered why this option was added...

It doesn't. It is basically mimicking up flick on the right scroll. Which at least in Europe, Germany does nothing to the nag. Is the flick on the right scroll (up or down) enough to remove the nag in North America?

I don't get it, you still have to press the button?! Where is the advantage, I thought it will auto-engage after you have overtaken, at least this was what was advertised before on this forum? I don't see any advantage unless it auto engages after I end up between the lines after the lane...

I am not sure they can. How can they differentiate if the command is comming from the MCU directly? Maybe they can somehow do it, like log a touch press and send that along with the command in some kind of log and then check if the command is added in the log with a touch, if they want to, with...

@dimitar.ns I was also wondering about the autopilot hands-on feature. According to the description for this feature: "Depending on your country's regulation, if you mount the button the steering wheel this action will be considered hands on the wheel trigger and dismiss the nag" This doesn't...

Hey @dimitar.ns , thank you for this. Just got the full buttons pack and it works wonders. Already have 6 things programmed and am missing a few, but I guess long press will help me with that (like for instance I have a button on the steering that will double as horn and AP engage on long press)...

Yes, the SR+ from fremont with the 54kWh pack is 1104428-00-T TC, see here.

Ok so he posted the video now and I think I won the bet with myself. He didn't factor in kWh difference, he said the old one/2019 charged way faster(it was about 2 mins in kWh to about 50kWh and about 3-4 mins to about 67kWh as predicted) And he for some reason lists this 2019 as 80kWh...wtf...

He also did a V3 Supercharger test in his live video,if anyone cares to compare it, it seemed not quite optimal as it dropped below 200kW around 25% or so. Took him about 45 Minutes to 90%(but 6kWh more than hos last car). It seems the charging is a little slower, but not much couple of...

Surely, if you drive it at below 130Wh/km on one go. Or in other words drive around 7-8 hours...

Was this the mix value? It will be more interesting to see your max and min values unplugged at different SOC and kWh. It seems that as long as one or a few batteries reaches 4.2V the car tends to stop the charging and the imbalance is higher at the top.

So I guess there might be something to it if you can go to 82kWh and the 00-T can't. I think the 00-T is limited somewhere around the 80kWh (maybe 80.5) mark.

It is not optimal. Just turn the AC until it drops to about 85-90%.

Isn't there only one 00-T so far and all the rest were 0L-P? From that guy who couldn't get 500km and sold it? I think this was the only 00-T in a P so far confirmed, at least in Q4/Q1

I am with @conv90, @AAKEE please look at the sticker, it takes a few tries to move the camera, but you can do it. That will put the theory of 00-T vs 0L - P to the test. I am actually kinda convinced that these LR 2021 00-T batteries can't do much more than 80kWh, because this is the increase...

Do they? Where did they post this?

I suspect this is the reason you can't get past 79.5kWh. The french guy in the french forum had the same pack and didn't even see 500km brand new. I think this pack is capped at 79.5kWh. What is your 100% in km?

Do you know the serial number of your battery? Is it a 00-T or a 0L-P? Not sure if you mentioned that, sorry. Same question, 00-T or 0L-P? Thanx

Best you post screenshots of the all tab around cell voltage/imbalance/ nominal expected etc.

Maybe you can ask around in the french forum and see what you get?

But just LR, not P? I am pretty sure the charge curve estimate will not be optimal yet.

And?! Still false, LG has 580km WLTP and 75kWh usable. Go back to page 1 of this thread and make sure to only comment once you read everything...

Do you have the BT adapter and app ready? If you can use Android, it is better and more accurate.

It lists the Model 3 AWD as 70kWh, 480km WLTP range and 560km/hr charge rate. And there is not a single correct value in that list. If it is your website, do vetter, if not - don't recommend it.

It has very random numbers, I wouldn't use that database for reference at all.

Not sure what you mean by heat, probably the stators while supercharging heating up the battery. As for traction, I managed to climb a pretty steep hill, with 5cm of snow, with my all season tyres that are almost 2 years old. And it was a very big incline, I am surprised I even made it. I am def...

No it doesn't. The difference is minimal. The front motor doesn't run 99% of the time anyways and the weight difference is 50kg or so. Around 5% to max 10% lower consumption depending on the speed. Have tested this with another RWD.

Great, make sure to post the last few digits of the vin and build month.

Is this you car delivered in Arizona? When was it build or last digits of the VIN? should be 9xx something.

That is a pretty wide range of 25km/h...I highly doubt he was close to that high range, even a RWD can't get 560km out of a 120km/h run. I think the most he can hope for is 450km. Drop it down below 100km/h at a nice summer day and then yes.

Yes, you can expect around 260+ miles at 75-80mph. If you have the 82kWh battery.

That is for the Performance. I was talking about the LR

@Stan930 can, for starters report the 100% on display. Next step will be to get this https://ohptools.com/blogs/news/all-you-need-to-know-about-the-tesla-model-3-y-diagnostic-tools-apps This https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.emon.canbus.tesla IOS also available, but Android...

No, it really isn't confirmed - it is now confirmed that this was wrong. The new papers that replaced the old once now state 614km instead of 640km. Not sure if it was an error or something else, but the 614km is the correct WLTP on the final papers:) So once again like I said above - the...

Exactly this... And most of them wouldn't even know where to look or what to look for.

You can scroll up in this thread and see a dutch guy with wrong papers E3D vs E5D (not sure if he got the LG or the Panasonic or the other way around, but the papers didn't match the delivered battery). 🤔 Yes, it seems it is at 79kWh. Doesn't increase the range after that. Your P is capped by...

It was 52.5kWh before now it is closer to 55kWh, for the Panasonic batteries. LFP also roughly the same, but they have 10% buffer instead of 4% like on Panasonic.

We had a few wrong numbers from dutch customers in the past, so unfortunatey you will only know when you get the car. "I think these cars have the CoC WLTP at 640km and Tesla by some reason understate it to 614. " At the moment the total km range displayed in the car is not "unlocked" so maybe...

Just drive your car and stop worrying about 0.5kWh. It will be gone soon so or so. You can expect around 10% degradation over the lifetime of the car.

Found this interesting Performance Video from Switzerland with 90km/h. Beeing Switzerland it wasn't very flat, so there surely was some regen in the calculation, but nevertheless he managed to pull 75kWh, with about 2% or 1.6kWh to spare and 3.6kWh below 0%. Makes total 80+kWh and if we factor...

There you have it, you reached 80.6 So maybe the reading on @AAKEE's car is not correct and the real range is 1kWh less. Either way, 79.6kWh is very nice and will get you anywhere you want to. 1 kWh more is about 1.25% on your SOC scale.

Then I would try to charge to 100% and let it sit there for a while, until the car says stoped charging, not before that, and see what it reports. Drive it down below 5% beforehand, just in case.

You should let it get lower before charging. 30% delta is nothing. It doesn't let the BMS do its job. Let it go 10%-65% and see what it does in 4 weeks.

Just find 450km of highway and drive at about 120km/h and you will know