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Different connectors was my understanding.

@pengy Is your intention to simply get the Matrix Headlights working in the 3 basic modes of operation: 1) Low-beam, 2) High-beam, and 3) Left/Right slew (with turn)? So there will be no active matrix functionality, as that'd require a level of integration that's not possible without software...

I find it curious the notches appear to be placed square in front of the driver. It’s almost as if Tesla is using them as visual queues to help train their neural net data collection for the eventual ‘active matrix’ functional release.

O The reflector version’s spread pattern is an utter mess. It’s no wonder many of us struggle with them under certain night/inclimate conditions.

So all it took was swapping 2 micro switches? If in fact this is the way, I’m in awe of all the shenanigans for the past 16 pages.

This is not the case with the new Model S and I can also attest to that with my own experience. My V1 Gen2 (mounted high just off to the left of the center mirror) consistently detects Ka band threats (actual LEO) well beyond 1.5 miles. Other point of reference...

Sound like complaint of Auto High-beam, which we already know the algorithm sucks. Matrix (selective black-out) hasn’t been enabled by Tesla.

I did manage to get one. For prospective buyers, you should know that while it can fit and do work, it does not fit flush for the Model S; about 1/4" too tall.

The center console side panels can be pulled away (strong clips; use pry tool). That’ll allow access to the inside compartment from the front and just behind the moving storage tray. Use a coat hanger wire to help guide you through.

@whisperingshad I would also like to know which shop in Chino.

Discouraging. I'm seriously looking into DIY Solar Projects, but that also comes with its own caveats.

You should be able to run the plan comparison tool on SCE's site to determine which works best for you. Guessing probably TOU-D-4-9.

Good to know. I guess the difference is solar generation sell-back. The more expensive rate during peak solar generation hour actually works in your favor?

I see. Since you’re on solar, TOU-D-PRIME wouldn’t be available to you, right?

Ah I’m on TOU-D-Prime (for EV). You should consider switching to that

2022 Update... What a difference a couple of years make. The rate increase is astonishing from the power provider (SCE/Socal for me). 100% increase for super off-peak! Speechless. Also weekends are no longer a safe heaven for a bit more liberal power use. Winter 2019 vs 2022: >>>>> Summer...

Yes there is. PM sent.

Black

Absolutely loving how the TWRAPS (@iyordanov ) Rear Diffuser Wrap came out. A very close match to the OEM carbon fiber indeed.

Was it not replaced with an oem windshield?

This is key here. Couldn't have agreed more. Under street-lighted condition, just about any headlights will do the trick. So well, in fact, some people inadvertently drive without headlights on and not realize it! This all quickly changes for the worse when there is little to no street...

I'll just throw it out there... I'm willing to trade my low-mile (3,200) Plaid w. appliqué +$$$ for anyone else's non-appliqué Plaid. 🙃

Thanks for posting that. Indeed the black is looking delicious!

As a former Model 3 owner, I approve of this message.

Not a fact, but I would bet on it.

Eagerly awaiting to see how well the black matches the oem carbon fiber, so I can order mine too.

I think you (LR) are going to be just fine. The bigger question is regarding retrofitment feasibility (not likely) for the previous gen folks.

Bravo! Finally a clear shot of the new dual projector headlights.

Everything thus far in this thread is pointing to the resolution of issue by re-torquing (or replacement of) the bash plate; nothing to do with the suspension arms/links.

Bravo! Liking the sound of it already.

Agreed. Could careless for the rear. Please make the new matrix headlights retrofittable!

Great start @iyordanov! Is single piece not possible? Can't wait for the finished product.

Noticed it while washing the car yesterday.

Would absolutely buy this if made available @iyordanov

I do believe he means those pop-ups… like ‘toasts’. :D

What was the cost there for the front-end PPF as you did? and the ceramic treatment?

Always love to hear feedbacks from 1st-time Tesla owners. Agreed with the lack of additional 12V port(s) in the back-seat and trunk area. I initially found the sound system to be inferior to my previous Model 3. It wasn't an EQ issue (because it's adjustable), but rather the sound stage or the...

Or brake LED lights from other cars.

The newer cabin camera is augmented with 2 infrared LEDs for low-light, but that hasn't been of any issues with my Valentine-1 Gen2. What radar detector are you using?

Ah I see what you mean. Since I'm not actually able to see that line from my seating possible, it hadn't occurred to me that the max regen dots no longer show. #lame

It’s actually there… all the way at the bottom, below the FSD visualization, and hidden away behind the curvature of the binnacle. #v11fail

Wouldn’t surprise me. I don’t drive mine hard and haven’t noticed any in 1700 miles. *fingers crossed*

Yup easy as pie. It is indeed held by tabs on either side. A gentle press with a flat head will do the trick.

The amount of scatter is horrendous with the S lights. Long shot, but really praying for the rumored new S headlights to be retrofittable.

Yup, thanks. I was able to do exactly that -- yanked it straight off without breaking anything. I have the same 2-way splitter as @Sullivansteve, which was an easy drop-in at the OEM cutout. I also wired in a programmable timer delay to address auto power-on issue I had with one of my V1 gen2...

Thanks for the update @Greeney @M4H4X, might be worth it to check if the bolts holding your bash plate(s) are also not fully torqued down. You'll need to take off the plastic under tray to see em. Here's a point of reference from the previous gen S. There are three main parts: a...

Can someone point me to or share how to remove the footwell panel where the OBD port is on? Does it simply pull down, or do I need to first detach other/adjacent panels?

I'm not surprised you weren't able to replicate the noise with the car jacked up. The suspension needs to be pre-loaded. If you have the car on jack stands, then you can pre-load the suspension with a jack under the main lower control arm, where the strut is attached. Hitting it will not...

Good to know. I’ll add to the work order at my next service.

Mine's also slightly recessed like yours.