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Did you or they power cycle the car? It involves disconnecting the negative terminal of the 12v battery (which was done when the battery was replaced) as well as disconnecting a plug from under the rear seat to disable the whole 12v system on the car. If you don't disconnect that harness under...

The box says the STP filters are antibacterial, but not sure if that helps with mold or fungus. Mobile service will likely just swap your filters and spray cleaning foam into the cavity where they go. You can do that yourself too.

If you live near a Tesla service center, you can drop by and buy a replacement OEM 12v battery for $85. That's a very good price and you won't find any replacements for anywhere near that price. The only things you will want to look for in the replacement 51R battery are that it has a port to...

If anybody is replacing their filters, AutoZone now sells air filters for the Model 3. They are specific for it and two come in the box. They seem like good quality, but I won't be installing them yet (I haven't had the stinky socks smell). The filters were around $30 IIRC.

There is no 2016 Tesla Model 3, you might have a 2017 or 2018. If you need/want to use your car without relying on/waiting for Tesla service you can pop open the frunk, and jump start the car. You can also buy a replacement battery at a local auto parts store, it takes a Group Size 51R battery...

First, you can pop open the frunk with this procedure to get to the 12v battery Do It Yourself - Model Y Second, you can jump start the 12v battery with this one Do It Yourself - Model Y

The price is in Canadian dollars, and a quick Google conversion shows that $399 CAD is equal to $312 USD. So it's not really much more expensive except for the additional shipping.

Just wanted to point out that the trolley jack that you purchased is not going to fare much better than the scissor jack in muddy or sandy or any soft ground. It probably has less surface area contacting the ground with its 2 small wheels and large roller than the scissor jack with its small...

Model 3 Performance with 20" wheels came (probably still do?) with tires of a 92 load rating, which meets the minimum specs for axle weight rating. See posts #1 and #2 here 20” Uberturbines on LR RWD Model 3

Not sure if it has been changed, but when the Model 3 Performance first came out and had the option for 20" tires, they were a 92 load rating. So I remember reading multiple accounts of people going to tire shops and them refusing to work on the tires because "the load rating didn't match the...

No, deals are always on sets of 4. Which it why I like to rotate my tires so they all wear evenly and get replaced at the same time. And also why I would never use staggered tires.

The point of the 4680 cells is cost reduction and increased mass production, not better performance. The limitation on performance is with the current drive units Tesla uses on Model 3/Y. They COULD drive them harder through an OTA update, but that would increase the failure rate. I'd rather...

I set the Ah capacity to what's on the OEM battery label and manufacturer spec sheet -- 45Ah. That's only used to show me how that number changes over time and usage. The most I've ever seen it go down, even after letting my car sit for 3 days without use, is to about 40 or 41Ah. That just...

To be clear I am not one of the people that's paranoid or concerned about my 12v battery going out, so I am not using the battery monitor to alert me if the 12v battery is about to die. I mostly hold similar views and opinions about the 12v battery and system on my Model 3 as you are expressing...

It's the opposite of what you think. Everything in the car uses 12v, except for the drive units and A/C compressor/cabin heater (both are one unit in the newer cars with the heat pump).

This is what I've been using since August of last year to monitor mine https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07CTKYFTG

Yeah, the Model S is more expensive probably because it's an AGM battery. I'm pretty sure the Model 3/Y lead acid is not AGM.

No. But the battery costs $85 if you want to buy it and replace it yourself. Or about $135 to pay them to replace it.

My car is on the original too, since 03/2018 and 78,500 miles. I think the ones that suffer failure tend to be more vocal about it. Although my battery is also a different part number and it's unknown what changed between mine (revision -A) and all the batteries from about 04/2018 that have...

This definitely looks repairable to me. It looks like whatever you hit was high enough to barely miss the two metal square tube crush cans to both sides of the car (the passenger side one looks just a little bit crushed and scraped on the top). Those crush cans are replaceable, and they bolt...

I fully charged the lead acid battery while disconnected from the Tesla with a smart battery charger/maintainer. I did that before connecting the 12v battery monitor that I'm using, and calibrated it to show that the battery was at 100% charge at the time. Then I set the battery capacity of...

The visible brake pads all look thick and like they have plenty of life left. I can't see any scoring on the rotor. Is there any visible to you on any of the four rotors?

It's still possible to get your drivetrain warranty voided if something breaks or you have an issue that Tesla believes was caused by towing. The chances of that happening are very low, and I personally didn't worry about it. This hasn't been an issue in over 4 years. Both popular aftermarket...

No, Tesla does not yet offer a retrofit kit for sale nor installation. You will have to DIY.

It's easy on a Model 3 or Y. See here Retrofit CCS compatibility onto earlier (NA) Model 3 - DIY approach

See here for a reference for anybody with Model 3/Y that wants to add CCS1 charging to their car Retrofit CCS compatibility onto earlier (NA) Model 3 - DIY approach In your case it's the easiest to add CCS1 compatibility because all you have to do is order the correct charge port ECU from a...

The OEM battery is definitely a better value, but my nearest service center is 1.5 hours away. And I refuse to change out my 12v battery until it dies (I'm at 50 months and 78,000 miles). When it does die, I can pop open the frunk and jump start myself and drive (or even walk if I have to) the...

I don't know which one they installed, but when mine goes out I plan on getting this battery from O'Reilly's because it's made in the USA by East Penn Manufacturing Company...

If you end up keeping it, you can buy the $140 part that enables CCS1 charging. It's easy to install. Then you just buy the $309 CCS1 to Tesla adapter that Tesla only sells in South Korea at present. And Tesla never specified or promised the ability to use CCS1 charging anywhere. It's a...

Agree with the others, get a SanDisk Max Endurance microSD card (or 2nd best option is SanDisk High Endurance or Samsung Pro Endurance, of which I have all of them). Here's the link (I always recommend buying flash memory directly from the manufacturer)...

Looks like the saddle in your jack is tiny like what might come in a 1.5 or lower ton jack. The aluminum jack pucks won't fit in it (nor will the plastic round ones made for Tesla either). I would not use them if they don't fit inside the saddle because they can slide off. On the other hand...

Good idea, I should have done that when I went to pick up the CP ECU. Now I have to wait for an actual software update.

Tesla isn't "detecting" LiFePO4 batteries at all -- they just happen to not behave exactly like Tesla expects their OEM lead acid battery to behave. That anomaly is what flags a "battery issue". And no, Tesla will not be able to measure the full capacity of the lead acid because to do so would...

The 1st gen Ohmmu battery was 11.4 lbs (you can still see the weight in this older page that was never updated Increased Efficiency | ohmmu). The 2nd gen Ohmmu battery was 8.5 lbs. They touted their weight reduction when it came out, and customers also weighed them themselves and came out with...

The first generation Ohmmu was 44Ah. When they started having issues with error messages after some Tesla software updates in the autumn of 2019, they came out with a second generation battery. That one had a much smaller capacity of 14Ah or somewhere around that amount. Once again in the...

Mainly to keep it clean and free of any debris that could cause issues with the contacts and failure to charge or overheating or adapter. Also to keep it clean and scratch-free. And finally, to keep the metal bar that helps lock it in from being hit and bending, which could cause it to hang up.

Are you sure your wheel spacers are exactly the same thickness? And I assume the wheels and tires are exactly the same.

If you charge at work everyday, then you don't have to plug your car at home everyday. The Tesla will charge the 12v battery, precondition the high voltage battery, and condition the cabin regardless of whether it's plugged into a wall outlet or not. It powers all of that through the high...

Yes, some have shaved the rear calipers a bit on the Performance to fit the 18" aero wheels. I remember people doing it on the forums about 3 to 3.5 years ago. An owner in my area also did the same to his Performance about 3 years ago. If I were stuck with the 18" wheels I'd have no worries...

Just want to point out that Tesla does not (currently) allow the 12v battery to drain ever if the car is awake. It's always being charged or maintained at float voltage. The only time the Tesla 12v battery is being allowed to drain is when the car is asleep. I've been measuring my 12v system...

HVAC will time out after a certain amount of time (maybe 30 minutes, IIRC) even if you were in the seat with the doors open. I am also in the camp that believes that the 12v battery failed and the car didn't go to sleep in order to keep it charged up, which ended up draining the high voltage...

Sounds good. Only thing I would clarify on Plan B is that YOU don't download the software update to the car, it does that by itself. The car or app will notify you once it's downloaded, and asks you to install it. Wait for the notification that it's ready to install and proceed with the...

There is no download. You can only reinstall the same version of software that your car already has. Which is fine because, that will enable CCS1 adapter support unless you are on a really outdated version.

You still can open it if the car is unlocked or the 12v battery dead.

It's easy to patch. They just need to cut a small section of the foam inside, where they are applying the patch. They can try gluing the small section of foam back after patching, or just toss it (it won't matter). Any tire shop should be able to handle it. Here's an informative link that...

Looks like the CCS1 adapter fits perfectly, thanks for trying it out. I might get this case to keep mine in. If I wanted to keep the J1772 adapter together I would try one of the other 2 cases I suggested.

I would say it's not important for Teslas. Batteries with higher cranking amps usually have thinner lead plates. The thinner lead plates reduces their longevity. Deep cycle batteries usually have lower cold cranking amps and thicker plates for better longevity.

Like dmurphy mentioned, the "reverse polarity protection" kept the NOCO jump starter from putting power onto the two wires because it doesn't detect any voltage on them (since they aren't connected directly to the 12v battery). It will still work but you have to push the bypass button on the...

I measured my own Tesla CCS1 adapter and have slightly different measurements of 4-7/8" x 3-1/4" x 5-1/4". I plan on keeping mine in the black box that it ships in because it has a flap with sticky tape that can be opened and closed over and over. But I would recommend one of the following...

Not only do you have to replace the charge port ECU with a Gen 4 that you can get from a Tesla Service Center, but you have to make a wiring harness adapter. Some of the pins on the wiring harness are different for the cars that got the Gen 4 CP ECU because the charger port was also a newer...