Search results

I gotta believe it’s software mang. I basically had the same weird behaviors as you after compressor/block replacement. It’d dump all the air from the reserve tank then try to refill instead of pumping up the struts first. Compressor would therm trip. Rinse, repeat. Driving a few miles and, same...

You’re missing the point. YOU have it all documented, but we’re all asking you how it could be that there’s no service invoices or comms via the app’s messaging section, especially as there were multiple SCs involved. Simple question. If no good answer after this, I’ll truly be done and just get...

Sorry to beat a dead horse then. It’s not about picking a fight with them. It’s a question of standard service practice to intake/diagnose/repair/release a car. How are they communicating with you all this time then? Surely not by phone so there has to be a record via the app and/or txt msgs...

What about the new SC that fixed your problem? They, too, have no records?

How can they take a car in, perform some work, and not have it documented, especially if the second SC retrieved your car from the first center? No appt or msgs via the app? Even if things are perfect for you now, I’d sure as heck want to have a paper trail.

BTW, @gearchruncher , you mentioned in the first post that 290mm center-to-center got you .4degs of camber. Assume that’s negative .4 right?

Balanced or not is beside the point IMO. Not rubbing salt into the wound, but running below 5% is a crap shoot. The car gives you plenty of warning by way of the battery icon turning yellow, then red. I’ve actually scared myself sh*tless during the winter one year due to road closures from a...

Yah, wait a second. I just scrolled up. OP gave this update back in Feb and I asked the same thing about what the fix was. No reply until now with just the same explanation that problem was mysteriously solved by another service center. We need more info/clarification @jslewis58 else something...

Good to hear, but how can they not elaborate? What does your invoice say??

Wait a sec… they didn’t even clear the codes vs just trying to calibrate?!?! THAT makes no sense and I’d be screaming until they did. They can play the “aftermarket” card if errors come back, but at a min should’ve cleared them as part of the diag and calibration fee.

This was with stock compressor and valve block, right?? Only thing left is the height sensors or the SAS ECU itself…

I have new Voss fittings, but with the locking collars (the push to lock piece) removed. All you’d need to do is carefully secure them (squeeze) a quarter inch down the air lines before screwing them down. I still have the plastic push pins so could try reinstalling the collars as well. Either...

Believe me, I’m rooting for you man. Std diag fee is equivalent to any trades-person coming out to your house. Even if they take only 5mins to confirm the main board on your water heater is dead (like I told them! Lol), it’s still a $125 trip/diag fee. I thought I got a pretty dirty loaner two...

This is crazy. Not supposed to be this difficult. I swear there’s a register/variable not getting cleared (for you software geeks out there) when an error is thrown. It should just stop any further attempts to level the car vs getting mixed signals and jacking the back way up, front slammed...

You’ll be fine driving to the SC. Front end won’t slam. Auto lowering won’t work either. With the back so high, don’t drive terribly fast if there’s freeway involved.

The early cars had the battery under the passenger side cowl, beneath the air filter, by the fireman’s loop. Super cramped and PITA to R&R the battery. Current location much much easier access and room to lift/lower.

I have a set of the EV Tuning camber arms that I never installed. Not sure if I will at this point since I just want a quiet period where there’s not something wrong/to do on the car. PM me if interested.

Battery swaps are done by Ranger, not a trip to the SC, so I’d suggest requesting via the app first and if they say you’re too far away, then worry about alternatives. You could shell out the $$ for an Ohmmu as well. They’d def deliver to you.

Fellow PDXer here (P85D). I run staggered 20s and have a dedicated winter setup so use full summers vs A/S. Have used Falken Azenis FK510s for years and have been happy, but recently switched to General GMax RS in the rear due to the Falkens not being in stock when I needed replacements before...

Utterly frustrating right? Deja vu hearing your updates. What happened to my car “next” is that the rear will get jacked to very high and the front will slowly get lower and lower every day until the car looks like an extreme 70s muscle car. The alerts you showed aren’t anything to worry about...

The compressor is def working overtime, but the filling and purging is exactly what happened to me after my last swap in of compressor and valve block. That’s when I threw in the towel and went to the SC as I stated earlier and got a call in a couple hours saying codes were cleared, calibration...

Plenty of America’s Tire/Discount Tires in Portland. If you’re on the west side, I recommend the Tanasbourne location. Have used them for years with zero issues in my P85D. Great customer service as I’ve had specific requests with my aftermarket wheels and they oblige no questions asked.

From epc to get the Tesla PN and then cross referencing, looks like thread size is M8? VOSS quick connect system 203 / VOSS quick connection 203 / M8 / 4mm terminal

Not necessarily one-way, rather closed until told to open. That’s why you can replace the compressor only without affecting any of the air to the struts. Only air that’s lost when disconnecting the compressor is the reserve tank.

Good to hear! However, I highly recommend you not use thread tape. Asking for trouble as when the tape breaks down/off, you run the risk of clogging the line. That’s why Voss connectors are used. It’s a two-piece design - a collar and the fitting itself.

I had your second issue after my last compressor/block swap. Compressor would eventually therm trip and stop to cool down. I had to drive around a bit before it actually filled the tank, raise the car, and stop running the compressor. That’s when the SC had to clear codes and perform a calibration.

Correct. Well, hopefully you meant remove the purple line at the compressor vs the block otherwise you’re spraying water into the block itself. The valve block stays in a closed state for all lines until it needs to open up fronts/rears to raise or opens up the black line to vent/lower. If you...

Don’t use thread tape of any kind. You don’t want any pieces getting into the air lines. That’s why the Voss connectors are pre-installed on the valve block so that you just insert the line and pull back a little to seat it firmly into the collar inside the connector. That doesn’t explain why...

Arnott never had them in stock direct so double check with Summit they will actually get them in early June. An alternative that I used. Rebuilt, but worked fine. Great customer service since I had to get a second one thinking they sent me a bum unit...

Sorry for a potentially “dumb” question. Did you uninstall the new harness and revert to stock?

Most likely no. When you replace the solenoid you need to disconnect the 12v as well as the fireman’s loop so that’s as hard of a reset as it gets. Things could work fine afterward or any stored codes may prevent the compressor from behaving normally. That’s why we complain about Toolbox not...

Adjustable parts I can understand, but control arms, sway bar end links, etc. I wouldn’t think they’d complain about. Must also be location dependent because I told them up front I replaced the compressor myself, but the car still wouldn’t level itself. Tech cleared all codes and the car raised...

Unless they’re specifically looking for lowering links, why would they bother taking off the wheels? If you request a Ranger or SC to perform a 10min calibration, will they check to see if there are green links poking through the wheels? Wouldn’t be surprised if you said yes, but just seems...

Share a rail? Didn’t think so since the block controls each corner independently. @Gtech previously posted the block diagram/schematic of the block and there were no shared rails. Either way, since you have the part coming, you will indeed know for sure. Be forewarned about needing Toolbox like...

Wouldn’t need to swap. What we’re saying is that Toolbox is needed to clear any error codes logged. The calibration sequence just goes through each corner and won’t care about actual height measurement. It’s all relative to each other, ie fronts match height wise.

BTW, @BostonBurley , I have a new solenoid block if you want to try swapping. Send me PM if you want…

Another pre-facelift car with SAS issues. I’m sure you saw my thread about the red icon/EAS_w007 error. Now I’m wondering if there’s some outlandish software issue with the last few releases. In my case, I’ve replaced the compressor twice. I never hear it running and I rarely even adjust the...

Bosch Icon 28OE and 18OE. Some lookups will have AOE I think, but it doesn’t matter. Whatever you do, do not use the Costco Michelin specials. The connectors are not a tight fit and cause the blade to eventually fly off. Personal experience after years of sticking with the Icons. Never again.

That’s why Toolbox needs to be made available and AFFORDABLE to the DIY community.

Fuse Box 2 - F36 is the simple fuse for the compressor Fuse Box 3 - the six black squares shown in the diagram are the relays. The bottom left one is K11 for the compressor. Pin30 of that relay to ground/negative of the battery should read +12-14V. If it’s zero then the 40A F82 fuse that’s...

Has the compressor been running a lot lately? K11 relay is in the right fuse box after you remove the windshield cover. F82 fuse is in the box under the air filter by the fireman’s loop.

Read page one oft his thread for location of the K11 relay as well as the 40A F82 fuse to see if you’re getting power to the compressor. Has it been running a lot lately? What firmware version are you in, btw, and which model car do you have? Mine is a P85D.

Are you getting the red Suspension icon on the dash?

Good news! Long journey, but you found the culprit. 👍

Anxiety setting in for my P85D that runs out of DU/battery warranty at EOY. Glad to hear 2/3 most expensive items were covered for you!

Sorry to hear that. Looks like your car is capped worse than mine for some reason. Mine doesn’t taper off to 70kW until my SoC is well over 50% IIRC.

From June ‘21 - $165 for the battery and $50 for the Ranger to do it in my garage. Well worth it for not having to drive to the SC to buy it and install myself. Most say Toolbox isn’t needed, but the Ranger did connect and do “something”, whether register it or something else.

It’s the “Car Status” item when you long press either scroll wheel to select what’s displayed. Unless you have the old Baolong TPMS and are still running V9 software, Car Status should be an option for you.

Easy thing is to post a screenshot of the info screen. P85Ds had Insane and then Max Power mode where battery would be heated up. That went away and the Insane+ button showed up. Insane never went away with any software updates.

If your pump is going, you’d get various “Power reduced”, “Powering down”, and “Car may not restart” msgs. All while disappearing/going away shortly thereafter. Those are preambles to real Hv battery issues which makes sense because if the pump isn’t working 100%, it would give intermittent...