Search results

$265 Shipped

For sure, PM me if you want them. Street/Track MPP

Glad you got it all worked out - car looks great!

As long as the bolts are marked before removing them from the FUCA mount, and are then placed back in the same spots, I would be comfortable not having an alignment done. But, to @dsgerbc point, if they are removed and installed all willy-nilly then there is a chance that the toe could change...

Yup!

Gloss finish. About 10k Miles on it. $700 Shipped. Photo's to come.

Up for sale is a set of Unplugged Performance Sway Bars - about 15k Miles on these. $400 Shipped Also will include Front + Rear Whiteline Adjustable End Links for an additional $150. I'll get photo's later.

Aluminum

Impressive, that is certainly an outlier scenario.

Yeah those are often not the best fitment. Cutting off half an inch is probably the best option. Not a lot of ways to secure it long term.

Gotcha, you could try adjusting the FUCA mount to get a bit more caster - or just jump to the MPP Bushings :)

If I'm looking at this correctly it appears you have less caster than stock? I did not have any rubbing issues, but I am using the adjustable caster bushings. What size specifically did you end up getting - 305/30/19?

IMO it's worth having a dedicated set of tires for AutoX for the same reason it's worth having a set of summer tires and winter tires in places with snow; the long-term cost is more or less the same and you're not operating at peak performance 100% of the time with one set of tires. A saying I...

Anything 295 or larger is going to need modifications to the front to make it work with stock fenders, there's literally no room left either way (knuckle or fender) so the offset is basically just finding the sweet spot where the tire doesn't rub on either. The primary benefit to 305's is that...

Well, primarily it's a pain in the butt to get to. You really need to remove the front bumper and then the headlight to get access to it. And, even then, I don't think that particular part of the fender is where the concern is. Also, it's lower down which matters a lot less when it comes to...

All except the ones under the headlight.

Bump

Bump, open to offers.

Bump

It's certainly not bad, but it really depends on the person. I don't typically notice or get bothered by NVH stuff, but some people are extremely sensitive to it. And of course, not all NVH is the same. I think it's one of those things, if you're asking, probably err on the side of caution.

A genuine BBK. The issue with the stock P3D calipers is that they can't accept a terribly thick rotor. While the MPP two piece rotors are considerably better than the stock rotors, they're just limited by mass. This is totally dependent on the driver though, there's a number of people who have...

Yes, you should. The FLCA bushings themselves do not change the alignment, but where the bolts are relative to the subframe will change. The compression rod bushings will increase caster, which will cause the other alignment values to change.

Not to be contrary, but is it possible that the wider tire is making slight contact with a wheel speed sensor? I obliterated both front wheel speed sensors when I moved from a 275 to 295 because I totally forgot to zip tie them back. But, I've killed one before on 275's too. Just seems odd, I...

Interesting, if it were me I might try replacing the wheel speed sensors one at a time and seeing if the concern changes. The tires shouldn't be the root cause.

Curious what tire and size you are running? I've kind of always preached for staying within 2% of the stock heights (26.3" - 26.8"). So, anything between 25.8" and 27.3" should be OK, though if you can select something closer to stock heights that's obviously preferred.

Well I have a different offset than the MW05's which are +40. I have 19x10.5 MW03's in +25. So, I am fairly confident you will need -3 degrees (roughly) of front Camber with 15mm spacers. In the rear, you should only need -2.5 to -3 degrees of camber. I needed almost -4 to fit the 305's.

305's say otherwise 😁 I really think it depends on your use case/goals with the car. For me, having easily and quickly adjustable rear camber is of great benefit. I can add or subtract .3 degrees of camber easily, and I know what adjustments I need to make to the toe arms to compensate...

I still do feel that way about the base Comfort coilovers. Don't get me wrong, the Comfort's (non-adjustable) are great. But, Autocross tends to be a slippery slope, so you don't want to regret not getting the right thing off the bat, especially when you consider installation and alignment...

I would say this - you can dial in the understeer even further with adjustable coilovers. So, the Sport's are worth the upgrade over the Comfort's for that alone. Having said that, you don't need to do everything at once, so you could keep the rear toe and camber arms stock for now. The big...

It works - albeit barely. You may need to shave your knuckles a mm or two. It requires a lot of camber front and rear. And of course, not all tires are the same, so it could vary from one brand to another. Below photo is on Falken RT660's, 305/30/19.

Bump - I'll sweeten the deal. Free Install if you don't mind driving out to me (Middlesex County, MA).

Ok, so I think you have several contributing factors going on here. Your front camber is definitely low. I would get FUCA's to fix that. Your rear toe-in is causing understeer. Set that to 0 as a baseline. Your tires are part of the problem. I know they're a bit on the expensive side, but the...

There is no difference.

Those definitely *look* like they would rub under compression. I just kept adding camber until mine fit, and they ended up with very little poke. Even then, it was extremely tight.

PM sent!

Both good options. Martian's are lighter and better looking IMO (having seen both on cars in real life). So, I would go with the MW03 personally.

Not sure why you guys want the MXM4. It's a pretty subpar tire besides efficiency. They last 15k-25k miles and have poor stopping distance in both the dry and the wet. Hankook makes some great tires. I haven't had a chance to test these yet, but I would not be surprised if they are an upgrade in...

To the top! Pics attached. As you can see, no measurable wear on the pads and rotors. This is an awesome kit that provides incredible pedal feel!

The only way to display it on the UI is with Track Mode. I think you can get the values using ScanMyTesla on a LR though.

Yeah I always do RR, LR, RF, LF and have never had any issues. FWIW I typically only bleed the outer screws on the front calipers unless a caliper is being replaced.

The MXM4 does wear fairly quickly. I typically see people get ~15k-25k miles out of them. Some extremely gentle drivers can eek out 30k, but it's rare.

I would expect to lose about 5% of your range moving from the 18's with the MXM4's to the 19's with the Continental's. Regardless, you are probably going to be closer to 200 miles of range at highway speeds either way. EPA Rated range is a combination of city and highway driving and does not...

Bump

Bump

Bumping this again. $300 Shipped takes it.

Bumping this again. $300 Shipped takes it.

I'm sure @Knightshade will be here to roast you himself soon enough, but you clearly have no understanding of how brakes work. The biggest BBK on earth will NOT stop your otherwise stock Model 3 faster or in a shorter distance than the stock brakes in a single-stop scenario. This isn't a...

Looks great! Specs?

I'm assuming you mean for a new build configuration? 18" will net you better range, but the 19" tire is better at just about everything else, especially wear characteristics.

Aesthetics and tire availability. I knew I wanted to run 305's and there's more options in 19" than 18".