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Well he obviously did not get a permit and inspection, then, as it violates code. Anyway it's a moot point, now.

Seems obvious that they will have to some day. How long they will wait is anybody's guess.

I'd say no, not long term. It isn't designed to be exposed to the weather, and I would expect the contacts to corrode. The right way to handle this situation is either to install a wall connector, which is weather resistant, or put the ENTIRE mobile connector inside a weather resistant...

You use the Red, Black, and Green/Bare wires as shown in the diagram. Just cap off the White wire as it is not used. I do find it odd that you already have a 60a breaker since the 14-50 should have used a 50a breaker. However, since you're switching to a wall connector (and assuming the wire is...

And just how is THAT reliable? Some unscrupulous person could have easily REMOVED some important performance part since the car was originally sold. I suspect that the most reliable way is to physically inspect the vehicle. Bizarre. Blame is NOT the issue. The issue is how easy Tesla's behavior...

If this becomes an industry-wide problem, laws will either have to provide for independent verification, or we'll have to have some sort of time limit after which there are no "take backs" allowed. Swooping in months or years after the fact is simply ridiculous. Does anyone know what consumer...

i said "virtually conspired" by making every outward indication say it was a performance model when it wasn't. Why does everyone keep carping in irrelevancies instead of the actual issue here? I swear nobody reads.

Not a very useful response since temperatures well below those values would likely mean that some connection is generating excessive heat and may be close to catastrophic failure. Do they seriously suggest that if the cable and handle gets hot enough to burn me, that I should just "be mindful"...

I'm sure that's all wonderful advice, but honestly, if throwing in a used wall connector is going to make the sale, you're better off just buying a new one for $400.

Hardly the main point of all this. I have every confidence that if he'd traded it in, giving full disclosure of the actual model of the car, that info would never have made it though the usual process of wholesale auction and resale by a used car dealer. Even a couple of private sales would...

Yes, there are many lashups that make sense as a travel or emergency use, that I would never condone as an ongoing solution. For example, at home I still use a wall mounted EVSE plugged into a 6-50, from the days before I bought a Tesla. Back then, I used an OpenEVSE (with configurable amperage)...

FYI, The Discount Tire vs America's Tire is strictly a Los Angeles thing. In LA market, the name Discount Tire was already taken, so the national chain "Discount Tire" is called "America's Tire" there. The Discount Tire stores in Los Angeles are not "sister stores."

I'm sure a non-Tesla shop could do the work, and no reason not to get some quotes, but I'd also get a quote from a certified shop, even considering the distance. The problem with a non-certified shop is access to parts, which might make for a superior outcome. I understand the distance is a...

The thing about this I find disturbing is that OP easily have sold the car to another, or traded it in to a regular dealer, fully believing that he was selling a Model 3 Performance and the new owner would have had every reason to believe it as well. It could even have gone through multiple...

I really don't understand people's thought processes sometimes. I'm comfortably sure that the parts to build his homemade adapter cost at least as much, probably more, than the 14-30 adapter from Tesla. Did he do this so that he could charge at 29 or 30 amps instead of 24a?

Yes, go ahead and size the breaker and set the wall connector to match the capacity of the wire. It's the simplest approach and is entirely safe. Putting in a 40a breaker and setting the wall connector that way will either cause a future owner to live with that limit, or to have to figure out...

Warm is perfectly normal. However, if it's getting seriously hot, you should look into it. I've had two instances in my 11 years of driving electric of handles and cables going bad. The first time, my car would fail to charge unless I flexed the cable. I suspect that the pilot signal wire was...

If you delay charging until the non-peak hours, there is NO additional "burden". The system is sized for the worst case, and any use below that is of little consequence so use during non-peak times means almost nothing. In fact, the demand can be so LOW in the middle of the night that the power...

Even worse, most TT-30 to 14-50 adapters will be wired for RV use and won't work for EV use. Definitely get the evseadapters one.

Honestly, Tesla has the best prices right now. You can buy portable chinese EVSEs cheaper, but if you wanted one of those, you'd be better off buying the Tesla mobile connector. At this point, the only reason to buy a J1772 EVSE is to accomodate non-Tesla cars.

For completeness sake, you should test at another EVSE, preferably one that has 48a capacity like at the service center. Just to narrow down between the car and the wall connector.

What could go wrong?

Sounds like it is wired wrong. There really isn't any other way for this to happen.

I don't recommend you use an extension cord. Instead have an electrician move the outlet to the correct location. Using an extension cord is being penny wise and dollar foolish...and not even all that penny wise as good quality extension cords are not all that cheap.

It doesn't have to be the connection. When my plug at home failed, all the heat was coming from the wire crimps inside the J1772 handle. It was my RAV4EV inlet that was scorched rather than my Tesla J1772 adapter. I was very lucky to get this covered under warranty.

That's probably not any better than unplugging the 14-50 from the wall. There's no reason to think the connection between the adapter and the mobile connector is any more robust than the 14-50 outlet.

Another reason for using THHN (not that it appears you needed one) is that 6ga THHN in conduit is good for 60a, but 6/3 Romex is only good for 50a. It gives you an upgrade path if you ever wanted to use 48a charging.

You might want to have the electrician rotate the outlet so that the ground pin (the round one) is on top while he's in there. That way the box part of the unit can hang straight down. Note: I don't daily drive a mobile connector, but a lot of people also recommend supporting the weight of the...

There are two reasons for having a backup. The first is so that you can carry it around all the time. Even when you do charge away from home, you most often will be using actual charging stations, not wall plugs. You can always take the one you use at home with you when you go on road trips for...

I have two wall mounted EVSEs for my two EVs. I would personally find sharing one too limiting, and would only do it if having two was prohibitively expensive. It would also interfere with my taking advantage of Time of Use rates.

Yeah lower the limit a bit and keep it plugged in. One nice thing about that is you can bump up the limit remotely when you're on your way back so you come home to a full car. You can also freely use sentry mode if that's something you would find useful.

Are there Superchargers in your area? Honestly, that's much more important having a big battery. I came from a LEAF with only 80 mi on it's best day, and a RAV4EV with only 100 or so at the best. I have the shortest range model 3, but I wouldn't hesitate to head out on a long trip because of the...

It's possible that the charges are going to the previous owner's card.

Doesn't particularly matter what order you do things in. None of it is final until you sign the final contract. They will get all the numbers together, before that.

Might as well wait to see what Tesla does. If the fix is easy, then no worries.

I use a J1772 for my daily charging. No downsides except having to push on the charge door to open it rather then pressing the button on the Tesla plug, which has never been an issue for me. I did buy a second J1772 adapter, as removing it from my J1772 plug at home all the time would be a pain...

I'm guessing that maybe he meant he put in a 45a breaker rather than a 50a one. I suppose one could say that the 45a one was "safer", but not significantly so. It should be adequate since the mobile connector supports a maximum of 32a charging, so anything over 40a will work for it. I would have...

I charge to 100% (at home) any time I think that a regular 80 or 90% charge might not be sufficient, or if the trip is long enough to require Supercharger stops. It's all subjective. Some people will feel that getting home below 50%, is a reason to worry, other not so much. Whether you do 100%...

Still it's a big help in this decision, knowing that you have a backup if weather or extra driving happens.

There seem to be two items that are contributing to the big price tag. One is the long trench, the other is the maxed out panel. You might inquire about doing a 240v 20a circuit. If that would fit inside your current panel's capacity, that could be a more economical choice for you. You can...

Actually, 5-20s are pretty ubiquitous in a lot of commercial buildings, I've found.

I think it's mainly because there are generally so many 5-15 receptacles on a single circuit. It makes sense to have a 20a circuit, but no actual loads greater than 15a. I also suspect that modern 5-15 receptacles are probably engineered so that 20a won't cause them to catch fire.

That first case is specifically allowed (for 5-15 receptacles). The second one isn't.

Jeez, what is there to fight over? I have a 6-50 (40a circuit) and a 14-50 (50a circuit). I did them that way because I already had the EVSEs I wanted to use. Of course, 10+ years ago 40a seemed like overkill...and in all honesty it still works perfectly. I do find it comforting to know that if...

One nice thing about leaving it plugged in is that if you use the mobile app to remotely cool or heat the car, it will use wall power to do it. Also, if you decide to bump up the charge limit because you need the extra range, it's already plugged in.

I respectfully disagree. The wall connector itself is the "utilization equipment".

I don't think so. It says outdoor outlets, and the wall connector wouldn't use an outlet. The Tesla plug itself is protected by GFCI, but that's not due to that rules, but other rules about EVSEs in general.

Actually, using a 40a breaker and wiring with a 14-50/6-50 is a very common install method for normal J1772 EVSEs as almost all of them are 30 or 32a max. I think it also gets used a lot with welders and power tool installations. As I recall, the prevalance of this kind of setup was one of the...

I would ask what scenario you imagine that an extra 8a is going to make a serious difference? Using that cheap chinese EVSE or that 14-50 to 5-15 adapter you linked seem like non-starters to me. Buying a 5+ year old used UMC is better, but they retired that design for good reason. The adapters...

Sounds fine. I would go ahead and terminate the white wire on the neutral bar in the panel. That way you won't have some yahoo try to use it without checking that detail later on.