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Ice chunks - this is why I installed the MPP aluminum skid plate. Not reactively, but proactively. I had an aftermarket one on my last car (Audi A4) as well, for the same reason. I drive extensively on snowy roads and potholed icy parking lots in winter, with ice chunks cast off from plows and...

I came from an Audi A4 with a K04 stage 2 upgrade, CAI, and coilovers. V8 Jag before that. After going EV, I’ll never go back… faster, more reliable, cheaper to operate and maintain, and … surprisingly, more fun to drive. I miss the sound of an angry turbo and BOV in a tunnel, but there is no...

Only skimmed this, but just wanted to nod in agreement on a few things. I came from a 2.0T K04 boosted stage 2 B7 Audi Avant on coilovers. Absolutely loved that car - just an absolutely red hot hatch. Would still have it if I hadn’t driven it to death: cracked turbo, loss of compression, burning...

I came from the now-defunct forums (the rest of your message was tl;dr though). Changed my username. This forum is waaay better, single greatest reason being no FISHEV and the like (thanks to moderation) 🙏

Minor nit: It’s actually “would have”, not “would of”. It sounds somewhat like “would of” when stated as the contraction of “would” and “have”: “would’ve”. Also, “in front” is two separate words. Finally, there is no means by which the car can “lunge” from a stop on its own: driver can...

I have the following: RokBlokz red rally-style mud flaps Rear bumper sequential LED inserts to replace the reflectors Cabin air intake screen to prevent large debris from entering cabin intake Abstract Ocean trunk LED lighting upgrade Mountain Pass Performance aluminum front skid plate Hitch...

It went to sleep. This happens every time you sit in the car long enough without interacting with it (like when I’m working on my laptop while parked). Pressing the brake pedal, opening the door, etc. wakes it up. Normal. Welcome to Tesla.

This is awesome. Would love to see more pictures and info shared on EV Adventuring FB group. 👍🏼

I have the LR AWD. I would (and did) go with the boost. I would not waste money on spoiler/brake paint - that’s another $2k right there. I prefer 18” wheels for the weather and road conditions I travel. If I had gone with P, I would have then also had to buy new wheels (and possibly smaller...

This was going to be my reply as well. In addition to an actual blown bulb, I’ve had this happen on my 3 with a corroded connector in the 3rd party wiring extension. I believe it boils down to the system anticipating a certain degree of resistance in the loop for the LED, and if there is more...

Much relief to see the follow up on this! 😅

I wonder if anyone has ever just removed the filter and left it out permanently. From an AQI perspective, how is that any worse than driving around with the windows cracked or commuting by bicycle? 1/2 serious question.

Whether or not it requires it, Tesla doesn’t/won’t do it. I had mine replaced without alignment and so far so good.

I can at least confirm that; I have matched all the keys on my Tesla - the OEM crossbars, the bike mounts, the rooftop box, and my hitch mount.

If it’s doing that on only one side, verify you don’t have a bad indicator.

I would never advise driving through water deep enough to intrude in the cabin or loft the wheels, but in general you’ll likely fare better in an EV than in an ICE due to lack of risk of hydrolock.

Ah, didn’t think of that. Tricky while parked on a conference call.

I can’t find a way to turn on heated seats without also turning on the full climate control system. I used to be able to do this before the regressive latest UI style. Now I can only seem to do it by pulling out my phone and using the app. On the in-car control screen, tapping the climate...

Update: I did discover that the app can pause the stereo - that’s a nice assist.

Exactly: I’d get it when I start the car. BUT, I’m not starting the car, just opening a rear passenger door. Oh sh1t, now I’ve also got to open the driver door real quick and hit the screen! Wah, wah. Having a proper proxy for “start the car” - like butt in seat, or press the brake (already...

I think everything is working as designed - it's playing at the volume I normally listen to it at, and I usually drive alone. But when I send my kids to the car, as soon as they open a rear door, the music starts playing at the volume and of the selection I last left off with (for better or for...

My one frequent fixable complaint: PLEASE, Tesla, pause the stereo playback until only driver’s door opens (or just pause and let us press “play” when ready). Drives me insane as I’m usually the last to get in the car, and passengers in back seats (kids) can’t control audio, and neither can I...

Yes, I have a Modern Spare kit which I put in the trunk any time I'm going on a remote trip. I also have the Tesla flat-fix kit (won't work on OEM foam tires) and a full patch/plug kit which are both always in the car.

I have this one installed (see here), and consider it fair peace of mind for the more common threats on (especially rural) roads.

Bumping this, as today I found the black plastic guide/tip of one of the charge port pins had broken off and gotten jammed down in the bottom of the charge port, requiring a delicate but forcible extraction. I've put in a service request and am assuming (read: hoping) that they'll replace the...

Super short post, but I’ve had these on my car for a few thousand miles now. Synopsis: 👍🏼👍🏼 Arrived timely and with all the hardware. Easy to install, though harder than the video will make it seem if your car is like mine: packed with dirt and the plastic clips requiring to be cut apart and...

If there is a way to fix that title, it will probably help cut down on the number of lookie-loos coming here expecting carnage.

Do you have your own outdoor or garage electricity access where you park (e.g. not apartment or similar)? If so, range is irrelevant as the car will always start out “full” since you change it at home. If you regularly drive more than 280 miles nonstop and can’t afford the 10 minutes to...

This, 100%. This is what I’ve been doing, as well. It’s a helpful kludge to deal with the poor design of small fonts and buttons located in close proximity and deep submenus. As much as the outcome might look a little silly, the design needs to go from Lego to Duplo: larger input block areas...

It’s actually a very clean, aesthetically pleasing interface; very well done for a tablet or laptop user experience. But 180° opposite from what’s needed to safely operate a motor vehicle. Totally missed the mark. 👎🏼👎🏼

tl;dr. The AWD is awesome in the snow. 🎤💧

Just an opinion, but I’d go with LR all day any day, even used. The cars don’t age the way ICE cars do; to the contrary, you’re probably looking at a vehicle that has proven to be free from any DOA issues. Pay attention to the front control arms and the interior.

Off topic and contentious comment, but: I wish that entire visualizer area would be replaced with status information and vehicle controls. I don’t see the point of devoting that much control surface real estate to a video game that only passengers should be looking at, especially when not even...

In Washington State, the passing lane is on the right, even in fair weather. 😡😖

I feel self conscious reposting this vid every time this topic comes up, but just to underscore your experience with the AWD on snows, here is mine rallying through blizzard conditions on Nokian Hakkapeliitta R3 snow tires:

Glad I persisted in this thread; your post made it well worth it. 👍

Weird problem that just started happening: soft signal on the left does three clicks, right side only does two. It should be three on both. Both do three flashes, but right side is much faster and finishes three flashes in only two clicks. Thumb wheel reset didn’t fix it. Anyone seen this...

Ah, gotcha. That’s a clever hack. I never use auto high beams, but I might use this trick to work around the buried fogs.

Are you saying you can get a fog light shortcut by flashing your brights at oncoming traffic? I’ll experiment with that, but boy does that ever present its own problems…

That’s incorrect: 1.) tap car icon; 2.) tap Lights; 3.) tap Front Fog. Do this when you suddenly enter a foggy area or rain squall. 3 taps = 2 taps too many. Stupidly, the Auto Highbeams light is available more quickly.

Big Fail on this; not only does the voice command not work (turns on dome lights for me), but fog light button is buried 3 clicks deep in the menu maze. Tesla needs to stop designing the interface like it’s a desktop or tablet app, and instead like it’s a vehicle console (or spaceship cockpit...

I would have had this on my bedroom wall in 1987. 👍🏼

They won’t reach out for anything they’re not obligated to do so for (e.g. recalls). You need to contact them.

36k miles, no concerns

TL;DR I replaced mine proactively at the 2 year mark. $100 is worth the peace of mind, hands down. I also keep an A23 battery under the tow hook cover and an emergency jump starter in the front trunk. No way I’m taking chances on this, especially given the remote locations I drive to.

This discussion became a little hard to parse because two complementary yet distinct points have been conflated: stopping/braking and accelerating/handling. The former is 100% tires, the latter is a mix of drivetrain & tires. In a normal driving situation, it’s impossible to tease these apart...

What you’re really asking is “what is the efficiency impact of driving with a bike on the roof?” For reference, I drove 170mi round trip with a Transition Patrol on my roof, in July in WA state, and averaged 282Wh/mi (see the accompanying post in the EV Adventuring FB group). You can then...

Very happy with the Yakima HighRoad. Quick to install and remove, low drag, takes burley mountain bikes. 👍🏼

Wow, scrolled this entire thread and not a single “American werewolf in London” reference. 😢