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Are the EA chargers reliable (150kW)?

Disable it by default (it is an electricity hog) and enable it as needed via the mobile app.

At an SC stop I thought someone had a 2021 M3 but it was a 2018 with aftermarket chrome delete. Looked brand new!

Hmm, I wonder if the CCS chips were so cheap they put ‘em in for Europe cars and kept them in US cars just so they would be the same.

You could “force” a specific alternate route by adding a waypoint…

A corollary to lower efficiency is a smaller “range penalty” from towing, cold temps, and rain, which suits the Rivian use case well. (Maybe the “wind penalty” would be a bit worse, though.)

Then how does FSD detect curbs?

Usually beta is free, and you have to pay when it comes out of beta.

Hopefully you have video. Surprised the car can’t detect contacting the curb and immediately stop, esp. for a paid feature.

Book service appt? Tesla should cover Summon related repairs. Otherwise too risky to use.

Road trip next week and I’m trying to decide if I can shoot for a 250 mile first leg, to get to a great SC stop (Colby, KS) and bypass some not great SC stops. Maybe if I drive 🐢?

Elon promised he’d open up SC network to non-Teslas…

Can you have an electrician add an outlet (or Tesla WC) on the left side (keeping the existing outlet) so you have one on each side? Assuming you have a 2 car garage, that enables two EVs in the future and saves the cost of the extension cord.

Alright, time to brag… or share horror stories. What’s the farthest you have driven your MY without charging? Or your longest leg between charging stops? I’ve had my MY for one year and my longest so far it’s 231 miles round-trip from Boulder to Laramie, Wyoming. Mostly 50 to 65 mph, A couple...

Best case is there is a software lock and Tesla will later offer a paid upgrade to unlock it. No way it’s gonna be free! 🤑 But the more likely conclusion is the new batteries are cheaper & heavier and less performant than the old batteries. In electronics, smaller is always better.

Intuitively it seems leaving the heating running would use more energy than letting the car cool a bit. This because every degree colder the car gets, the less rapid the further cooling. (This is the same reason keeping your thermostat lower in the winter / higher in the summer reduces energy...

Did you notice a drop off in acceleration as the SOC got lower? There are other threads on TMC that discuss this but I don’t have firsthand experience.

+1 to chill mode on snow-packed roads; helps the back spin less

The biggest cost of hard acceleration is wearing out your tires faster! Lots of posts on TMC from people who burned through their tires after getting their car or buying Accel Boost. (Btw the battery provided the energy that went into wearing down those tires).

Here ya go! 2021 BMW i3 Review, Pricing, and Specs “To make up for its stingy 153-mile driving range, the i3 can be ordered with an optional gasoline-powered engine to provide additional range—something buyers who aren't quite ready to let go of internal combustion may find comforting.”

We’re depending on Ford F-150 Lightning for that, since Tesla won’t make a normal pickup truck in the foreseeable future!

In flyover country (e.g. Kansas) the chargers are 120 miles apart. This determines your frequency of charging stops more than your battery size. If there were chargers at more highway exits it would be a huge (effective) range boost for my MY! I don’t need a bigger battery… I need a denser...

Don’t forget they will drive themselves from LA to NYC in a year or two from now. 🤔

what’s your hot take on the car?

I love my 1yr old MY. Every time I drive it, I’m like “wow…” But I couldn’t afford one now ($15K more than what I paid in Mar ‘21) I’d probably have to settle for ID.4. ☹️

Diesel locomotives are actually a diesel generator connected to electric motors. Crazy power!

No! I haven’t seen oncoming traffic ever in my MY; it is a year old with 30K miles. Are you supposed to see oncoming traffic?

I think they would be a gas powered “range extender” (makes electricity for the car, as opposed to being part of the drivetrain). Great idea and bonus points of it could be left at home / work site except when needed.

Could they bring the “tabless” coolness to smaller batteries? From a performance standpoint, smaller will always be better than bigger.

Degrading the battery and wearing out the tires takes energy too! Hence faster acceleration has lower efficiency than gradual acceleration. Save it for when you really need to show off off the line (me yesterday against a 1980s Corvette).

It’s weird they didn’t make the Texas car RWD? They could have made it slightly cheaper, less of a range hit from LR…

1 is infinity% greater than 0. Similarly, even a single Level 3 charging station over a large distance is immensely better than none. Once we have more chargers, EV range will probably be much less of a thing.

>0 is infinitely more than 0…

Plan on your first SC stop after 200 miles and subsequent SC stops every 120 miles. More stops will get you there sooner. Trust the car nav.

We’ll be at the ~300 mile plateau for a few years. Competition, broader EV adoption, and people demanding good cold weather range will drive it higher someday. Might even make it part of an optimal “cold weather package.”

Thanks! I guess the CCS is too bulky to fit in the driver’s side door. I wonder if that case would fit under driver’s seat?

I have a similar sized hood ding (no scratch somehow) that I think of as a beauty mark. Only visible in certain angles/light.

I think the current answer to the OP at this is point is “I’m not going to wait for a slower car with less range!”

How nice is the case? (Pics?)

Can you put a plate in your front window when you park to avoid a ticket?

Does the ChargePoint go through a J1772 plug? I thought those could only go up to 30A or so.

The wait is worth it! Have faith. 🤞 My MYLR turned 1 today, took delivery last year in Superior. Have loved it every day since. Over 32K miles, I’ve saved $4,000 in gas vs. my 21 mpg ICE vehicle (Honda Pilot) including 4 long road trips. “Let it rain VINs!!”

Awesome!! Thank you for posting.

This is why I charge at 40A (unless I’m in a hurry). All electrical and mechanical systems tend to work better (and last longer) if operated below their maximum rate.

Elsewhere on this forum there is a thread on charging efficiency stating that 40A is slightly more efficient than 48A due to less resistive heating.

I think that the rear tires doing all of the regen breaking is a big difference from ICE as well. Rotate often!

The bigger the battery the slower the charge!

I’m rotating the tires every 3.5K miles, which is a pain. But it’s essentially a rear wheel drive car with rear wheel brakes, so…

Please state your charging rate.