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I disagree. The loaners and Uber credits are part of taking the car into service. Whether you have a bill or not is where the warranty comes in. My car is way past warranty and transportation is still offered.

I made a full size spare out of the best old tire from the last tire swap. I'm on 19 inch wheels (aftermarket) so the tire size is common and less likely to break/bend in a pothole. Just having the spare in the garage is huge step toward avoiding these scenarios.

I'll just throw myself into the mix now. I went ahead and scheduled an appointment for next week. Looks like it will be a little over $1500 in the estimate. Got a 3rd party warranty that will expire soon, so I need to get it done. Hoping based on the feedback of others that this will be a...

In my case most had to be setup again. I didn't mind really - it kind of had the effect of getting a new car feeling to it all.

Just adding an image to show the "Daytime Running Lights" option and where it's found on my car.

Maybe it's different on the facelift cars, but there is definitely an option on my old school nose cone car.

Not really sure this is so much a Tesla issue as it is an industry wide issue at the moment. I've been shopping for a minivan the last few months and nobody has one I can even sit in to get a feel for them. We just had to blindly order one with the understanding that we could refuse it if we...

I don't know the answer, but if you go to Lowes or Home Depot there is normally some test nuts you can try to thread your bolt into. They are labeled with the size/pitch so you can easily buy matching bolts that way. They look like this...

Could it be that the brake pads are wearing thin and the squealers are making contact with the rotors?

I find it to be such an easy piece to swap out, that I have 2 nose cones for my own car. Been working on different custom looks by painting one while the other is on the car. I really like the color matching - looks great.

I'm pretty sure OP meant to say radar.

I paid for the radio upgrade on mine ($500). Well worth it.

Genuinely curious now - would enjoy learning what could happen during a motor replacement that would kill the battery.

I'd at least start by letting a third party company taking a look at the battery and seeing if they can provide a battery fix for a lot less.

My IC got bubbles one day and quickly got worse. It does seem odd the bubbles showed up there since the EMMC repair is behind the center screen only if I recall correctly.

Car stresses different components when you raise the car, which is why there are speed limits where it will lower itself. The higher you go, the lower that speed limit becomes. I think the Very High setting is just up to 10MPH.

Cause MCU1... Cause MCU1....

Cause you have the MCU1. Once you upgrade to MCU2 you will get the more current updates.

I'm pretty sure the "Additional Information" would give you that information under the "Autopilot Computer" description.

In my car it may take it between a few seconds (radio) to a few minutes (waiting on internet connection) for other sources. Sometimes I just do a reboot if one or the other doesn't work in a reasonable amount of time.

Also look and see if you have LED bulb on the garage door opener itself - those will cause all kinds of interference with the signal. Change them out for some old school bulbs if you have any.

Michelin PS4s are sticky tires. They won't help much all by themselves. Could be worse if you have heavier than stock wheels or wider than stock tires. There are many variables and at the end of the day they all have a small or large affect on the mileage. Side note: Might be worth getting a...

Is that for just the half shafts and possibly the clevis or is there more to that quote? I'm re-looking at the twitter quote and I guess those with Raven front ends might have a cheaper repair as it says to just reposition the clevis but it's listed as a part for the front "Small Drive Units"...

The way I understand it, it doesn't matter what version handle you have. They actually reuse the handle itself and just replace the internal parts. I think this is one way they reduced the cost of the repair.

Even more so they join to complain once and then are never seen again. Kudos to @Ewfl who at least searched for the issue instead of starting a new thread.

The post over here seems to imply that the issue has finally been resolved (link below). The later posts indicate the repair was $657 (on page 13). For what it's worth, my car too is enjoying this issue. I don't mind paying for a repair at this point, but I do want to know the issue won't...

I had this happen when I backed over a curb. Didn't realize it till I started moving and the car made a terrible crunching noise. Broke the diffuser chrome and a few fasteners broke. Can you put the car in drive or neutral? I feel like the car binds a bit if the wheels can't move.

If your car is still under warranty, then yes, this repair (if it is the issue) will be covered under warranty. This is a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) and not a recall. So if you are not still under the manufacturer warranty period the the repair would not be covered.

I have my car set to not lock nor fold mirrors at home. I don't see them folding/unfolding at home.

I thought with a lemon purchase they had to disclose the issue. I could be wrong - but I think some states require the manufacturer's docs to go with the branded title explaining what the issue was and how it was corrected. Requirements may be different based on the state you are in.

If you have air suspension, remember you can raise the car and don't forget to put the car in Jack Mode.

Buying a 1 or 2 year old car can cost more than a new one... just look over there at Tesla.com....

After the MCU2 upgrade on mine, it seems like I'm always on the leading edge when getting updates. According to Teslafi my car is usually within the top 10 to get the update. I got 2022.4 yesterday.

I wish Carfax showed much... On my car is showed it sold and registration renewed and that literally was it. It's kind of useless since Tesla doesn't share anything. However I guess it's possible the accident might have shown up.

I think there is some confusion on the Heater Battery part. I suspect it's actually the battery heater, in which case maybe that is why the dropped the HV battery (to replace the battery heater blanket)? That would not be a part covered under the 8 year warranty. That I'm aware of, the car...

I started getting the alerts recently. Mine did not coincide with the MCU2 upgrade - since that was done months ago. I suspect since I haven't really changed anything, and the "Key fob battery low" message seems to come up instead every once in a while, that it may be a fob battery that just...

I realized by accident yesterday that you can get the climate control by swiping up anywhere on the lower black bar, not just where the cabin temperature is at. The changes don't bother me as much after realizing where all the functions I normally use have been moved to.

I do wish I could get the service history of my car. The most I got was "the previous owner took good care of the car" from a mobile tech that refused to show me the service history. Mine was a Tesla lease return. It still had "Home" programmed in the navigation and the garage door opener...

I just had a broken gear door handle replaced and can verify it's about $300 bucks for the Gen 3. If you want to see the difference, there is a good video from super fast matt that explains it well: I should add that I was pushed an update for the new door handle after the install was...

I could swear that is actually double sided tape on my factory nose cone. I did buy another nose cone and 3D printed new brackets to hold the sensor in. It wasn't a specific Tesla bracket so I had to make a few adjustments to get it right - including the depth to ensure the sensor was...

After driving at night, I'm starting to not like how dark the roads are painted in dark mode. The contrast is just not enough to easily spot the smaller roads on the map.

If it is similar to the sensor placed in the old nose cones, the parking sensor bracket is attached to the bumper with 3M double sided tape and the sensor just snaps into the bracket.

Mine would squeak like heck on bumpy surfaces, especially at low speeds like in a parking lot. I could also bounce my weight on the door seal and hear the suspension squeak.

I noticed tapping the "North" icon which is now on the left side of the screen instead of the right (which I like since it is now closer to me) re-centers the map on the car. As everyone else, still trying to get used to it.

It's worse than that since Tesla keeps your old battery as part of the deal.

I'm really not sure why you are so opposed to a simple measurement. Is the car seeing the full voltage provided? It's a simple question that has not been answered. Again - in order for there to be heat there has to be impedance, and if there is impedance - there will be a voltage drop. I'm...

You are stating that there is no impedance cause the port and charger were changed without any curiosity to measure if it is true...

How does it not? In the images you can clearly see the melted port is dirty, and the middle clear plastic rods have clearly been overheated. The dirtier it gets the more impedance will build up which leads to more heat which leads to melting stuff... If there is impedance (electrical...

I suspect there is some impedance in the charger port somewhere. I'd be curious what your houses voltage is and what voltage your car sees.

The Tesla "T" logo is just double sided taped to the nosecone - just get a string or dental floss and work it behind the badge till you cut through the tape. The chrome trim that goes across the nose cone is a pain to remove. You have the little tabs holding it was hard for me to remove...