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The multifunction relay is not the Tesla switchpack module. I have seen it called a switchpack in lotus applications, but it is just a mechanical relay box. The Tesla switchpack is digital control module. The Roadster uses both.

The EBC rotors rust a lot less than the stock ones. I only see slight rust if they get splashed directly with water. But the slots are the reason different rotors help in the initial breaking. The OEM drilled rotors just dont have a path for the contaminants to escape.

Your pressure seems a little high. Are the fans working at full speed? They start on low and then kick on high around 15bar. If they are fine check the condensor for road debris. Look through the grill on the bumper at the bottom of the condensor. You can back flush it from the top past the fans...

The USR1070 work great with the USR Yellowstuff pads. You just need a 4mm spacer on the front calipers. The slightly larger front rotor (308 mm) stops better than the lighter 2 piece ones (300mm) when using the same pad. And about 1/6 the price. By the pics, it looks like Gruber is using...

Absolutely not! The dyes are mixed with oil and probably not compatible with an electric compressor. Adding extra oil always reduces efficiency, and the system is already weak. The best solution is not to evacuate and recharge the system, as you almost always lose a little oil when you take the...

Any shop that does A/C should be able to handle it. You don't need to worry about the service mode and the solenoids unless you are evacuating it. Since you still have pressure in the system, all you need is a recharge, unless they find a leak. There is a sight glass on the drier to determine...

You are low on refrigerant. Your pressures should be around 15 BAR when the compressor is on at that ambient temp. 35' C is nothing to worry about. Mid 40s and you can start to be alarmed.

Here is a pic of the high voltage ESS disconnect (orange), located on the left rear of the ESS by the front of the left rear wheel. You might have to take the wheel well liner off to access that area unless you have small arms. The connector with the VMS power is on the bottom (black with red...

The VMS still has power to it with the APS off. You need to either unplug the VMS plugs or the connector under the HV disconnect on the ESS.

Response as to possible solution posted in the PEM cleaning thread.

The motor shroud is in two sections that are bolted together. Every time I take those off I am amazed at how much crap is in there. Most of it gets jammed in the bottom of the motor, which would explain your uneven temp readings. You should consider taking the shroud off to clean the motor.

It's not the pump that is the problem. The system was not designed to cool the battery without the a/c on. There is no air/liquid heat exchanger (radiator) to cool the battery coolant. In fact in warm temps the heat created by the pump will actually raise the coolant temp. You have to inhibit...

You dont need to do anything with the high voltage system for just the condensor replacement, it doesnt require you to disconnect anything related to that. The A/C service mode is used to operate the battery cooing solenoid which opens the rear circuit so you can evacuate and charge the system...

The Lotus ones are the same. Check the Lotus forums-everyone takes them out for track use.

The thicker pads wont fit and are a paint to grind down. You really need a mill to get them flat. Ebc USR1070 rotors work as-is in the rear, and just need a 4mm spacer (flat washer) under the caliper to work in the front. Those rotors you have need to be machined as least, but should be replaced.

Strange. I was required to have a stated value on my Lotus as well. Something about not having enough data to determine a value. And we are both in Florida.

Progressive uses your stated value.

leave both sides unlatched and tape it down

Did you lube up the latch to see if it solves your problem?

It sounds like the ESS just went below minumum voltage and everything is now shut off. You have a very small window to get the pack charged before you have severe damage. Tesla will just want to sell you another new 3.0 pack, so call Carl Medlock and get the car to him ASAP. He will have to get...

The original antenna was just a wire that was tucked around the inside edge of the windshield, so it needed a booster. I never had any luck with that setup. I tried a flat style under the hood, but It always had interference when the car was on. There is no simple place to mount an external...

There are around fifty hose clamps on the ESS, and they start to seep as they age. Thats usually where the small leaks are. Fill it and keep an eye on the level. A large leak from somewhere else will become visible. You can use regular ethylene glycol antifreeze (50/50 mix). Propylene glycol...

Low coolant can cause that fault also. Make sure it is full with no air bubbles. When air gets in the pump the current goes down as the coolant aerates. When it foams it expands and the level goes up. Check it with the pump off after about 10 mins. A new pump would probably cost less than the...

That box is the booster for the factory radio antenna.

Dont drop the screws. If you dont do that it's pretty simple.

You can reset the speedo in the service menu.

Are you gonig to share? :)

The 12v battery has nothing to do with the blower.

The repair requires the ESS to be removed and disassembled, so its not a field repair without the right equipment. Still, it's only a one day job, so $10K is a bit high.

Since this went bad after you drove it last, the logs wont show much, maybe just the dropping voltage of #68.

The count goes down from the left as it is numbered and then progresses to the top of the next row. I just looked at the min and max screen. Since that brick it the only one that is not being balanced (drained), the other ones are fine at the moment. Unfortunately, this issue is becomming more...

You have a bad cell(s) in brick # 68. Get it to Carl ASAP. Dont drive it, just keep it plugged in. The bad brick is discharging faster than the car can balance. Pulling the disconnect is not going to help, but it should be OK for 3 weeks. Just depends on how long it took to get where its at. If...

I'm not sure about the mirrors-they just look out of place. Otherwise it looks pretty cool.

The Lotus bearings are 4 lug. You need the 5 lug Opel units.

See if these help.

The antenna lead actually melted through, and the inside of the unit had smoke residue. It was burnt all the way to the exterior plug, so it wasn't an internal short. If I ever a reason to take the dash apart, I'll remove the antenna and see if the wire shorted against something.

I've singed my eyebrows more that once over the years from gasoline (damn plastic fuel injection lines), so I'll take a slow starting electrical fire over a gas explosion any day. I've seen melted transformers, ballasts and motors, and they all gave off odors and smoke before a fire. I had a 12v...

This is very strange-I just had the exact problem with one of my cars yesterday. Completely dead, doors wont open. It was fully charged a week ago. After getting into the car I got the "no responce from PIN" from the VDS. Powered up the APS-still nothing. Looked like a dead VMS. Checked all the...

Tesla has been using used sheets in ther reconditioned ESS units for years. They recycle the defective ones. I have had a couple of remanufactured ESS units apart and seen different sheets inside. They have also stripped entire working cars that they acquired. I have found it much easier just...

The sheets placed into customer cars were from salvage vehicles that they purchased. I sure they read the logs and recorded the CAC to get the capacity close to any repaired pack. The pics shown have writing on the sheets stating the problem with the bad sheet along with the VIN it came from...

Once the sheets are out they are only 36V each. Its when they are connected that you have to be really careful.

For the APS power - in front of the right rear wheel there is a small black box with a terminal block inside. Large wire with red tape connected to it. Next to the coolant pump(s). That is the positive. Ground is just to the chassis.

You have a bad cell(s) in brick #29. You need to remove the sheet from the ESS and cut the connection to the bad cell(s). The ESS disconnect has a pin on the handle that activates a microswitch when in the locked position. Did you take that into account when you repaired the disconnect...

It looks like the temp sensor on phase C is disconnected or bad. You need to test all three temp sensors.

"As for materials: body panels (except for the bumpers) are made entirely of carbon fiber to minimize weight." "entirely"? I dont think so. They also didnt take into account that a lot of the different parts are just Lotus parts which have been modified to Tesla"s specs. That 7% figure...

Probably a salvage-parts only car. There was an out of country member here looking for a title a while back. People dont seem to understand the consequences of swapping just a VIN.

That sure looks like an Opel GT to me. Thats just the rebadged Saturn Sky.

Thats why all mine get converted to studs and 17mm lug nuts. Any bolts are a pain.

I thought it was the one from the electric Ford Focus part# CV68-19D623-AC, but it has been a few years since I had one out so I could be wrong. Check the online pics and compare once you get it out.

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