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Good plan. I’m still using MCU1, still very happy with it.

MCU1 and MCU2 are not plug-and-play. You cannot upgrade it yourself without EXTENSIVE modifications and programming. It's not worth it to do on your own, Tesla's in-house price is actually pretty good for that. FYI, it's only $1750 for you because you don't have AP2. I believe the...

Rear camber isn't adjustable from the factory, but toe is adjustable - and you can use more neutral toe to offset excessive inner edge wear. Do a quick search, there are a ton of good threads on inner edge wear and how to remedy it.

IIRC, Bolts + Wax means they adjusted the belt tension and installed shims. There was a tech bulletin on it a few years back.

I know this thread is 4 years old now, but since no one answered you and it may help others in the future, YES, add-a-circuit works. F202 is always hot, F207 is switched. This is the one that you need: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08S3L5CR4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Yes.

Yeah...... I dunno, this feels like a solution seeking a problem in most cases. For track use, sure I could see the benefit of having in-tire temperature/wear data. But for a dude driving to work....not really.

Just in case any of us "Legacy" S folks are lurking around this thread, this appears to only be relevant to the 2022+, not for us oldies. OP talked about these being significantly quieter - I'm curious if that's true, or just so much quieter than the worn out old tires.

What about it? Camber, caster and toe are all adjustable in the front. Aftermarket upper strut plates that give you even more camber adjustment are available.

Tesla is notoriously crappy at doing alignments. They aren't given enough shop time to be perfectionists. I'd suggest finding a racing alignment shop - the type that is comfortable setting up coilovers and whatnot. They will have the expertise to be able to adjust out any pulls.

It's not currently plugged in. I was going to run it off one of the two independent USB ports, but it seemed like it wasn't getting enough power from there....it would flicker and cut off. When I powered it through the cigarette lighter, it worked fine.

Update - I checked the same fuse on my S, both are in good shape. So, something else for me it seems.

IIRC, the compressor is on a dampened and spring-loaded board, so it's already absorbing a lot of vibration. The Model 3/Y compressor is designed to have a 'blanket' over it - the S is not, and may not be able to dissipate enough heat if it's wrapped in dense sound-deadening material. I...

Did your TPMS look like this when your fuse blew? I have no values displayed at all, not even the '--' where it's looking for an update. This happened after installing a dash cam, but I ran power to a different spot. I'm curious if I popped that same fuse in my S. I don't have any error...

Peculiar Issue. Over the weekend, I swapped my brake pads and rotors. I also removed a broken dash cam and installed a new dash cam (front and rear camera). When I got back into my car, my TPMS light was blinking, and I didn't get ANY TPMS values. I don't mean they showed the "- -" like it...

Got a source on steel braided lines? I can’t find them anywhere for the S

Hey folks, I have never really liked the pedal feel on my P90D. The brakes work fine, but the pedal travel before it gets really heavy on the brakes is a more than it was in previous performance cars. It also never really gets “firm” like on my old M5….the real road feel isn’t there. I always...

I went ahead and did the upgrade on MCU1 AP1 because I got tired of the pop-up asking me to update every time I got in the car. I don't like the layout as much as V10, but it functions fine.

It' more commonly called "Staggered Wheels." Meaning, the rear wheels are wider than the fronts, because more of the power comes from the back (and the weight shifts to the back when accelerating). VERY common on performance cars, for example the, Porsche 911 GT3 has P255/35R20, on the...

Model 3.

If you're going to firestone, I'd suggest giving them the spec you want the car to be set to, and tell them "do this." Otherwise, they'll do the same as Tesla....just get things into the green range and leave it. What you really want is things to be identical side-to-side with zero thrust...

Cancel your appointment and take it to an independent alignment shop. Tesla themselves are not goid at performance alignments. They sometimes don’t even hand it back to you with everything aligned to their own specs.

2016 P90D, lowered with 21” Vossen HF4T, N2itive rear control arms.

I totally agree. But even if he did call Tesla Roadside, his expectations are out of line.

Why would Tesla reimburse him for hitting a rock? Tesla is a manufacturer. You bought a car from them, their warranty covers manufacturer faults, they have limited roadside service as well. But if YOU break it, why would that be their responsibility in any way? If I throw a baseball at my...

This thread is from 2015. But 24's won't fit on a Model S without modification. Especially in the front.

when is/was the event?

The other day, I made a thread about prepping a Pre-Refresh Model S for road course racing. turns out, it's a no-go. Mainly because of brake fade and thermal limiting on the battery. Thing is, AutoX is only done in 60 second bursts....Could I squeeze that in before the BMS gets angry?? I...

Yeah, I think i'm going to hold off on this upgrade. V11 seems like a step back from a visual and organizational standpoint.

From the DOT's viewpoint, if the gross weight is less than 2 tons, you don't need trailer brakes. I wouldn't worry about it unless you're going downhill quite a bit. Just wire up your lights and call it a day.

I'm torn on this one. My V10 install is super stable, no crashes, everything's where i want it to be. I've heard nothing but "meh" things about V11. Maybe I'll stick with V10 for a bit before upgrading.

Thanks for the insights. I’m pretty disappointed with the pedal feel from the factory S brakes, and figure braided lines and bigger calipers may help firm that up, of course with added stopping power on such a big car.

So......any experience with Paragon Brakes / BBKs?

How do y’all not rub with flush front wheels? I almost rub with et30 21’s

It’s meant as fun flattery. Porsche builds one hell of a car, I love the Taycan. My dream car is a 911 GT3 RS. I get lots of thumbs up from Taycan owners.

I enjoy 'slow' momentum cars. I shared a 911 GT3 RS with a buddy for a while, and while the thrill of driving that car was unmatched, it was so fast that everything happened quite quickly and I had to be on my game 100% of the time. Miata gives you a little more "old brain" wiggle room to plan...

That makes a lot of sense. The track near me has a "rent a racer" program with some Spec Miatas I believe. I want to say they're like $400 a day, but that's cheaper than a trip to the service center!

This is still doable with AWD cars as well. The whole kit fits in the frunk.

Hi folks, Last year when my son was born, I had to sell my beloved E46 M3 track car. Given that all I have now is my 2016.5 P90D, that pretty much killed my track days. Last weekend I got the chance to run a 911 GT3 RS around a local track for a few hours, and it made me remember how much I...

They definitely can't void your warranty for taking it somewhere else, as long as you use OEM parts. I've done a ton of suspension work myself, still have my warranty. Honestly, your service center just sounds like it's full of jerks. I have never had an issue with acceptance of warranty...

Can you be a bit more descriptive? I recently had my air springs apart (installing the Unplugged Shocks) and I couldnt spot any areas where there could be rattling in the air springs. At least, for the newer version.

I sincerely doubt anyone would take these back out after putting them in.....I don't think I've ever seen a used set for sale. But Unplugged does have them in stock. Obviously $2.5k for shocks is pricey, but for older S's, this is a huge upgrade.

I have to image that was an error because that right there is a sway bar for ants.

Integral links are an.....integral....part of a multipoint suspension setup. The main purpose of the integral link is to evenly distribute brake and acceleration torque to the different arms in the suspension so that your alignment doesn't go bonkers under heavy acceleration/braking. Your...

Have you tried pulling the fuse for the power steering motor? Curious if we can somehow start isolating potential shake sources.

B is the newer revision. Has some change in design from version A. It may not be a significant change, though.

Could you measure from the edge of the lip of your wheel to the top of the fender? That's a nice stance, curious if i should go another 1/4" lower to mimic that. Right now I'm at 27.75" from ground to top of fender in the back, and 27.5" in the front.

It's more a case of "How to spend $2k fixing a minor steering issue," lol. Honestly, the QA paint pen marks on the original parts all lined up, so it doesn't look like they had ever been removed. If I had to guess, it was just early failure from frequent heavy acceleration. Frustratingly...

Why so much difference in rear toe?

Did they change the alignment specs? I thought you wanted a little toe out on the fronts for AWD.