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Based on having the same car with around the same mileage, here are some things you could check proactively: -- Grounding nuts on both sides of the area under the frunk tub - these can corrode to the point of disintegration, but may not happen in your climate. When they get too corroded, you...

It's in the photo in the link that I copied (the battery part number encodes the manufacture date). Certainly it could have been a recent replacement when you bought the car. When I was searching for my used Tesla, I found that most sellers with refurbished batteries didn't know how old they...

With a brand new HV battery with 4 year warranty, and a relatively new drive unit, and "perfect condition," I agree that you'll do somewhat better by getting the new Tesla battery and then selling it immediately. There is a market for ppl who want an S and will buy an 8 year old S instead of a...

I'm sorry to hear that you're in a difficult spot with your car. My suggestion is to make this decision based upon if you would be happy driving your 2014 car for several more years if you got it back up and running (also factoring in that you might need a drive unit replacement down the road if...

Looks like a remanufactured v3 that other folks on this forum have received, and v3 is obviously better than older versions of that battery. It could be as old as 2016, however, as in this example: https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/used-tesla-s-issues.141892/page-2#post-3378214

Using the Sidem arms didn't affect the ability of my car to get realigned properly.

To determine the battery age, you can take a photo of the battery sticker, which is viewable by standing on the passenger side behind the front passenger wheel and looking underneath the car from that position. It's viewable from the ground (no need to lift the car). The serial number will...

I did this repair last year on my 2014 model S for the same reason (torn bushings). In the Boston area, my total cost for replacing the front control arms (fore/aft, both sides) at an independent shop was around $950-1000, not including alignment. Labor was 360. Based on advice from this...

Whatever you decide to do about the battery, I would check out Recell's (TX) options for third party refurbished battery replacement: Vendor - Recell Launches Groundbreaking Remanufactured Battery Packs for Model S and Model X I would also get another opinion on the need for a new MCU...

Make sure they do not charge it to 100% for you, because then it would be sitting there at a 100% charge, which is not good for the battery - it's one of the more important things to avoid doing to the battery (charge it to full and leave it sitting that way). You can guesstimate the full range...

I think it's well worth the effort to look for replaced batteries in used Teslas, given how much they cost to replace out of warranty. As long as the battery sticker is readable, it tells you everything you need to know. When I was searching, I asked dealers and private sellers to send me...

There's also nothing special about Tesla's air suspension system that a qualified independent mechanic can't handle. If you're paying out of pocket, you might want to take this issue to a 3rd party mechanic whom you trust.

I would look for one that has had a brand new replacement (under warranty or not) with one of the newer 350V batteries (1014116 versions A, B or C). Those have been used as warranty replacements for a couple of years now, so there are used Model S cars on the market that have these...

I think the consensus is "the large majority of the time, the features will be stripped if you buy from a dealer; if you really want FUSC, best to buy from a private party who can prove they still have SC01."

1. If the dealer bought it from a Tesla auction (after a trade-in to Tesla), the stripping of the features is most likely going to happen after you purchase it and register it to your own Tesla account. Sorry, this is just the way it happens, I don't think there's any point in trying to get...

If the dealer bought it from an auction, the auction will show up on Carfax. It won't say that it's a Tesla auction, but it's safest for you to assume that it was auctioned by Tesla. If you want to find out for sure from the dealer, with proof, I guess you would have to ask the dealer to show...

The key info you need to find out is if the dealer got the car from a Tesla auction. If so, FUSC and FSD will most likely be stripped *after* you purchase the car and register it to your own Tesla account.

Your battery manufacture date is October 2015 (T15J is the beginning of the serial number, J is the 10th month), and it was a new battery when installed (not remanufactured).

I believe it is one of the better warranties (I bought one), and as you are considering it, keep in mind that X-care's rates go up with every 10,000 mileage increment. So if you buy it, make sure to buy it before you hit 10,000 miles.

Here's the thread: https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/preventative-maintenance-regarding-battery-failures-in-early-model-s-vehicles-2012-2014.280089/

In that same thread on Preventative Maintenance of HV Battery, there are a few owners who describe how they did it themselves. I believe it is easier to DIY on the RWD models.

You can put in a service request and make it clear that you just want to order the parts only. They'll send you an estimate for the parts and let you know when you can pick them up.

Here's what I have for the ball stud and washer, from my Tesla parts invoice: BALL STD&WSHR 1128714-00-A Qty 4 Unit Price 0.59 According to another thread on this forum, the C-clip is 1538314-00-A. I bought the C-clips from a VW dealer because Tesla was out of stock: VW part number...

I unfortunately don't have the part numbers handy, but Tesla does sell the ball studs and the C-clips. I had an independent mechanic replace them. The C-clips were in short supply at Tesla, and so I ended up buying an interchangeable set of clips from a VW dealer.

Look up the thread in this forum on "Preventative Maintenance of HV Battery" - your car is old enough that it will have the AC condensate draining directly on top of your HV battery, and your battery is old enough that it won't be as well protected from the water. This can be addressed...

Looking for your own personal "best used S" seems to depend on the specific features you prioritize. Here are various things that different folks seem to prioritize: -- Battery size and current max range -- Free supercharging -- RWD vs. AWD -- Performance vs. non-performance -- Sunroof -- Late...

If you want to minimize the risk of needing to replace a drive unit in the future, go for an AWD, non-performance model - these use the smaller drive units in front and back, and these are supposed to be much more reliable.

That warranty that you're quoting is for parts purchased from Tesla (including those installed by Tesla). If the replacement is covered by warranty, such that the owner is not paying for the part, there's no extension beyond the original warranty. This is stated in the General Terms and...

No, since it's a warranty replacement, warranty coverage will expire on your original warranty date of 12/17/22.

This remanufactured battery is approximately as old as your car, so I think you can view it as similar to an original battery - just not broken.

Also, the serial number starting T13J indicates that the original manufacture date of this remanufactured battery was October 2013. Given that age, it's conceivable that this could even be the car's original battery - after being refurbished by Tesla.

If you're not in a rush and you're looking at cars with 1-2 years of drivetrain warranty left, I would suggest holding out for a car that has had a brand new HV battery replacement under warranty. Some owners will sell them anyway, even with a relatively new HV battery, because they don't want...

Thanks for this info. Looks like the airbag was done under previous ownership, b/c the only open recall on my 2014 car is the eMMC. Are you saying that if the dash has already been opened up before, there's essentially no risk to letting them open it up again? For me, it's really the trust...

I have consistently declined the eMMC replacement after reading some reports on this forum of damages that owners believe were caused by that service, b/c the dashboard needs to be taken apart. https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/emmc-replacement-screen-bubbles.242530/ Also a report of...

There's a whole thread on this issue: https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/preventative-maintenance-regarding-battery-failures-in-early-model-s-vehicles-2012-2014.280089/

You can find out whether the HV battery has been replaced by looking at the battery sticker (you can take a photo by peering underneath the car, standing behind the front passenger wheel). Once you have a photo of the sticker, look at the serial number. It will start with T[YY] where YY is...

This is a job that an independent (non-Tesla) mechanic can do for much less. You can buy your own parts - search on this forum for posts about buying Sidem brand links, and you can buy the various nuts and bolts from a Tesla SC. When I had my front fore and aft links replaced by an indy...

How do your remanufactured packs address the water ingress vulnerabilities of the early (2012-2014) OEM packs?

I know that I had free SC for a couple of weeks before my ownership transfer came through, and that during that time, the car still had the name given by the 1st owner who had FUSC. The first owner definitely had SC01. You will have to claim ownership of the car if you ever want to take it to...

I think you may have to wait and see what happens after you get ownership through the app. When I bought my car from a third-party dealer who had bought it from a Tesla auction, the car came to me with free Supercharging, but it was taken away after I was assigned ownership. I am pretty sure...

Yes. If the dealer bought the car from a Tesla auction (which is likely), Tesla will remove the FUSC. The reason this can happen after your purchase is that the dealer doesn't transfer ownership to itself through Tesla.

Creep mode has been eliminated from the refreshed S/X models. In my older S, I do find it very useful for backing up such a large car.

@Severiner in case this applies to your car and contributed to your battery failure, you may want to read this thread: Vendor - Preventative Maintenance regarding Battery Failures in early Model S vehicles (2012-2014) If your car has the AC drain issue of releasing water directly on top of your...

I recommend reading the recent thread: Vendor - Preventative Maintenance regarding Battery Failures in early Model S vehicles (2012-2014) Basically, it describes a design flaw in 2012-early 2015ish cars where the A/C system dumps condensate directly on top of the battery pack, and the early...

I would suggest requesting all the service records, and then post a summary here of what has been done. If service records are minimal, I would plan for up to 5-6K in repairs needed to address issues that you may encounter in your first year (things like torn suspension bushings, air suspension...

Looks original based on the serial number beginning T15.... and the part number ending in 00-E (would be 01-E if refurbished).

Sorry, I have no info to provide on where to order the new pack because Tesla did it after previous owner traded it in.

Total cost should be less than half Tesla's estimate if you use an indy mechanic (doesn't have to be Tesla specialist for this work) and you buy the parts yourself. I bought Sidem aftermarket parts because they were recommended both on this forum and by Electrical Garage.

Well, I didn't learn that much about the specific actuators because I replaced all of them except for 1 where my self-sourced replacement part didn't fit. But I know that there is a specific "blend door actuator." There's also an "inlet actuator" that's behind the glove box.

Failing AC actuators can make that kind of noise even when the AC is off. The way I got rid of a dashboard noise (sounded kind of like a hard rainfall noise/rapid tapping) that frequently occurred when everything was off was to replace almost all of the AC actuators. That was the most...