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I have the OEM factory hitch and tow hook for the Model X. Practically new, just trying to recoup my purchase. Should fit all years for the X. These are pretty expensive from Tesla. Asking $600 obo for the entire kit. Local pickup only due to size (just south of Boston)

Anyone not getting this fixed needs to call out their SC. I had this fixed at my SC (see my quoted post) soon after delivery. It took them a while, but the tech and my SA got to know the inner workings of the new X very well. It's definitely a different layout from the Raven models.

One of the nicest 3s on this site. That tuck. So fresh

Wheels have been SOLD

I wish I could give evidence of the load ratings, but as far as Forged vs Flow Forged, they showed me the cut wheel before powder coating. So, I 100% believe they're forged. Could they just show me anything? Probably, but the raw aluminum flow forged/cast wheels look VERY different from forged...

Shoot me an offer.

Would be funny if the mechanic who removed them was super scrawny compared to the other guys that tried the same sledge hammer previously. From the aftermath photo they do look like they have a step for the performance lip, but judging by the scuffed area in the bore it looks too shallow of a...

Ahhh, I was supposed to head there that Friday, but I got pulled into work. What's our current setup? I recall you changed quite a bit recently.

Sweeeeeeeet. When did you go there?

Price drop $1800 for the wheels

Shoot me an offer, guys.

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https://www.teslamodel3wiki.com/tesla-model-3-hub-size-differences/ https://www.teslamodel3wiki.com/tesla-model-3-hub-size-differences/ See this wiki. The rotor hat on the stock M3P rotors is thinner. As a result, about 3mm of hub lip are exposed and performance compatible wheels have the hub...

This is probably the craziest thing I've seen happen, but didn't think would ever be possible. That little MP3 lip is a bastard already, but for that 6mm difference to cause 4 improperly bored wheels to get stuck just shows how careful we need to be with these things. I didn't think anyone...

I'm all the way up in Boston, MA.

Shipping these is not an easy task, so do you have any ideas on how to handle that?

They are. Where are you located?

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My 275/35/19 PS4S w/o foam are the quietest tires I've driven on my M3P.

Oh, whoops. These are 19x10. Messaged a mod to hopefully fix that typo.

Yeah they were based off those custom made

These were made by a contact my local shop knew. So no brand really, but they claim they make wheels for many of the popular companies sourced out of Taiwan. The anti-slip knurling looks really close to my Signature wheel set. Not sure if it's the same factory, but take that for what it's worth.

Here's what they look like on the car and 275/5/19 PS4S tires.

I had an extra set of Forged wheels custom made: 19x10 ET35 with 950kg load rating. Wheels sit flush on MPP/Girodisc rotors and 275/35/19 PS4S tires on my M3P. Factory M3P rotors will push wheels inboard 4mm and may require spacers depending on tire size. Turns out I have too many wheels now...

Those look nothing like stock brackets. In fact, if my stock brackets had that length I'd be able to use my MPP lines without zip ties.

Yes I did. It fits into the 14mm bored hole in the knuckle and the M12 factory bolt fits inside the sleeve perfectly.

That makes a lot more sense. Lol

How would that work? The M14 part has to pass through the M12 hole to get to the M14 threads in the caliper.

Photos here. you can see the nick highlighted in the sunlight in the last photo. If you look closely at the one of the other photos of the wheel you can see it at the 9 o'clock position. Not in a rush to sell these, cause (like I mentioned earlier) can I simply run these in the winter instead...

I searched 14mm OD 12mm ID aluminum tubing and bought this one to have on standby should I ever go back to stock. uxcell 6063 Aluminum Round Tube, 300mm Length 14mm OD 12mm Inner Dia Seamless Aluminum Straight Tubing 2 Pcs...

19x10 for track runs, and cheap 19s for winter months. I mean I could just keep these for the winter months, but that just seems silly if I can sell them for what I'm asking.

I have a set of Signature SV502 wheels in Matte Gunmetal 20x9 ET30 square setup mounted with Continental DWS06 Plus tires in 255/35/20. Probably about 10k miles on the tires and wheels. One wheel has a nick from a stray rock kicked from another car on the highway (such bad luck). I've touched it...

Hah, the guy that started this venture is one the last ones of the initial group to get it installed.

Aren't the performance brakes lighter than the long range ones?

I found aluminum tubes on Amazon that are 14mm OD and 12mm ID. They fit perfectly, but you just need to cut them to the proper length.

Going to say factory bolts would be gravy. Wish Tesla had a bolt that fit these calipers. The bolts I grabbed from ZZPerformance aren't corrosion resistant. Just need to find the GM P/N for it.

Been running these for about 2k miles on the road. Missed out on my track day at Palmer due to work obligations (DAMN YOUUUU!!!!), but these things are firm and bite. I'm running Corvette stock Brembo pads on the street. They're dusty pads, but for how cheaply I got them I'm happy - especially...

I'm using OEM lol

So, it's doing exactly what mine does.

Site prep for this baby's new home.

Yeah, my issue is definitely different. It's only at highway speeds, and only if my throttle is partially engaged to maintain highway speed. The noise goes away soon upon flooring it or regenerative braking. Glad you got it fixed so quickly.

Hmmm, I've noticed this with my car up front. When cruising with 5 to 10 percent throttle at highway speed I hear the fluttering up front. Floor the throttle or regen braking eliminates the sound. Is that what you experienced?

Until Firestone starts aligning Teslas, thus allowing me to pay for lifetime alignments, I'm going to invest in floating plates to install in my future garage and do string alignment. It's silly to pay $200 every time I want to adjust something. It's easy to do if you have the tools and a level...

I thought you couldn't officially change camber on the stock suspension. It's just toe and caster. To truly change the front camber on the stock, I believe you need to loosen the top mounting bolts and try to shift the strut in or out to get about 1 degree of range.

If electric Scooby STIs are ever made and limited in performance or inspired driving, I can see WWIII starting as a result. That would be a travesty.

Appears to only affect the refresh 21/22 models.

How far from RU are you? I'll be down there for the Iowa game.

How many miles on them exactly?

My SC said the joints leaked air badly. They disassembled the entire interior to tape up the all duct joints. Even Elon pisses them off. The service manual had the vents located in the old X spots, whereas the 2021+ refresh has the ducts in a different location. That's why they needed to...