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Oh, last night, i noticed my wipers weren't running. Guess what? It was an auto! Had to switch to a manual setting.

Yikes.

I had better auto-brights with other brands. I should not need a manual to use a car, and I'm not going to memorize every menu's items anyway. I haven't really had an issue with the rain sensors, but I tend to manually choose a wiper speed anyway.

The seat heaters are there. Didn't see how to get the wheel there. Thanks! Any idea how to get them to be bigger? There's like an acre of screen real estate, but it's all taken up with a 3d animation of the car.

Keep your cameras clean, people!

About two years into my 2021 Model Y LR: 1. I STILL can't get rid of the visualization. It takes up the most visible part of the display, distracting me as I drive. 2. The autopilot software STLL can't even get the visualization right. Flickering, bouncing images of vehicles? That bus next to...

Interesting. I think I've noticed an overall chilling out of fanboyism here over the past 12 months. I love my i4, but I drive my Y much more since all these storms have been ruining the road, and thus, the car. The Y is my beater, and the i4 is my glamour car.

BMW makes a largely superior car, but you gotta pay for it. For a while, Tesla's prices were higher, and so there was little reason to consider the Tesla. After the recent price drops, Tesla is competitive again. Any proper driver will need to upgrade the MY springs and shocks, though.

I'd have to buy 80k tires to get 30k of actual life. Not sure how you people manage it.

If you liked how the Model S handled, you just didn't know any better at the time. Now you do. Porsche suspension is far more advanced. A fully loaded performance version will have rear steer, active shocks, active antiroll, and a high level of professional tuning. Tesla, in comparison...

I'm rather glad I never put money down on one.

Tesla: Promises Made, Promises Kept

I was at 4% with a heated pack, and I got 56kw at a 150kw rated station. Then I moved to the other station and got 200+ kw for a bit... by the time I hit about 33% of battery, it was down to 133kw.

Went to a supercharger yesterday. Plugged in. 57kwh. What? Looked at supercharger website. This site was rated for 150kwh. Wasn't even close to happening. Found another nearby site rated for 250kwh. Drove over and charged there. Went much faster. The supercharger experience is hit and...

Well *sugar*! And I haven't even used mine yet.

I found this on Amazon. Takes up half the frunk from essentially top to bottom and costs 35 bucks. You can get two if you want the full frunk filled. The front is lower than the back so it follows the closed frunk contour a little while giving extra storage in the bag. Most others are one...

I put in a Rev reservation thingy in the morning after I read about it on Car and Driver. I like that it can power the home, probably for much longer than our powerwalls can. I like the 4x4 and lift for our messed up road. I wish the Model Y could be lifted more, but the stupid top knuckle is...

Huh. They dropped the price and they dropped the features. Who would have thunk?

Is the car parked in a heated garage?

I think it's fraud. Musk is a liar. Tesla lies. Cigarette companies lie. Oil companies lie. VW lies. All in about equal proportions. All have led to deaths with their lies. Granted, some have killed more than others by a few orders of magnitude. I'm just not shocked or surprised...

Is anybody surprised? All one has to do is try autopilot to realize how far from autonomy Tesla is. Not even in the same galaxy.

2021 LR. It's a mix of better and worse versus stock, but mostly better. Not sure how different the 2022 suspension is. If you want comfort, the GT Ohlins are a good choice, but there are design decisions for the suspension that limit the car's potential no matter what.

The magic of the Ohlins and other good shocks is when you're mid-corner and hit bumps. I like the stiffness of the RT because even when that happens, there's almost no chance of bottoming out.

I'd go get the Redwood GT suspension then. You can go higher than stock while maintaining the comfy ride as they're adjustable. Or you could go put spacers above your shocks and run them in the range for comfort.

1.75" is the sweet spot for lifting. I got there with 1" larger diameter tires and then a .75 suspension lift. It makes the car far, far more livable.

Clearly you need to lift the car.

My idea of camping or roughing it is sitting on the lanai with the AC off.

Love the camp setup.

You can always upgrade the brake pads and fluid, but no, that's not a sign of your driving skill. A good driver can get around faster with less brakes, though their best times would probably heat those puppies up. Inexperienced drivers, myself included, spend more time on the brakes and do...

Essentially stock.

If you want to be fast on the track, don't upgrade the car. Just get more seat time. Once you are using every erg your car offers, then you can upgrade your car.

Nasty bumps at high speed on at or near full stiff, I get a bit of a jump, yeah. It's just too much damping, I think. If you're getting it at full soft, you might be experiencing something else.

UP did a lot of tuning, which helps a lot for performance on track. That's I suppose what you're paying for. Fortune Auto and other lesser-quality brands can do just fine on track with a fast driver, and anything is fast with a fast driver. I'm not going to track a Tesla. I wanted suspension...

With highly stiff settings on the rear, I get a bit of a jump on some stiff bumps. Backing off on the rear stiffness helps, but then the car wallows a bit more than I want (though less than stock). Just gotta find the happy medium, I suppose. Remember, this is a track kit, not a cuddle kit.

Yes, of course antroll bars affect roll. But the proper place of aftermarket rollbars in the process of tuning a car is in tuning for balance after the rest of the suspension is set, not for eliminating roll right away. You already have a perfectly serviceable rollbar. Don't jump ahead.

If I wanted the smoother ride, I'd have gotten the GT kit :)

You will soon regret following me. It's a little bit of a pain. Just lie on the ground and reach under the car to access the bottom of the struts in the rear. You can't do it if you have tyrannosaurus arms. Remember that clockwise is upside down since the rear struts are flipped. It'd be...

UP seems shady to me. They make their own stuff? Oh dear God. I'd just call Heath at Redwood and ask. I think they can do ~20mm. No secrets or BS there. And they're good at their jobs. 10/10.

I'm running a ~20mm lift on the RT kit and then another 1" from larger tires. It's much better for stock.

The Model Y is happy with a stiffer front and a softer rear.

How is there no rubbing?

Redwood GT kit.

Of course tiers are set by quantity. If I was in deep snow, I'd have chains. Snow tires are questionable in deep snow, as is every Tesla. Why would you have M/S when you also have snow tires? You should have summer and snow if maximum performance matters to you. 1. Wasn't ever an option. 2...

Budweiser is still tier 1. Also Michelin isn't budweiser.

Michelin is about 15 times larger than Nokian. They're somewhere around the 15th largest tire company in the world. That makes Nokian what tier then?

The off second and third tier brands are strong with this one.

You want efficiency, you get efficient tires and drive like gramma. You want good tires, throw efficiency out the window. Pilot Sport 4 SUV FTW.

Nope. Nooooooope. Nope. Aftermarket roll bars are for tuning balance front and rear. Oversteer. Understeer. Not for body roll. Stiffen the dampers.