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Have you done any work on your cars, DIY? It’s doable but to get the window aligned again on the door would be a pain. I think Tesla would point you to authorised bodyshops so it might get quite long to fix. One other point is that different glass can be with different tone, I mean colour from...

Sorry for stealing the thread but what did you used?

If you already know what the large drive unit on Tesla means then yes, ask if it has been checked for the coolant ingress as the unit is probably original.

It also has LDU, so worth to check that info as well.

Mine is AP1, 2016 MCU1. And if not mistaken I can engage the AP even on city streets and if I have to correct the steering manually (that Autopilot steering is now off) then the car keeps the assigned speed - the function is now TACC - and when no obstacles seen it will adjust to the initial...

I did tried to explain that IF you engaged the Autopilot in high speed section of the road then the automation should adjust to the new slower section, and if the road is then again changed to the PREVIOUS speed section limit then the Autopilot will adjust the value back. I experience this every...

I think you might just misread the @EV_Travels post. It clearly said that you need to set the speed settings in the Autopilot section to your desired value (I keep it +6 km/h been in EU). And while you drive you engage it for the speed that the car currently reads from signs (or map data as...

If not too late…

Haven’t you seen there is dedicated UK section here so worth to post your concern there?

Yes, please. You can start from 245/45 R19/102y, but I believe load index 96 is also acceptable.

I do not have the correct data but yours as Ludicrous battery should have the max fuse with 2366A. You said that you purchased this later so maybe they go by VIN and hence suggesting that 2000A fuse? Your fuse from factory supposed to be a 1111445-00-F if not mistaken. Other have reported that...

It’s weird that the door part no. was before the change 1061930-88-B and that new one (still on car) is 1061929-00-D. But this is for EU car and the version (printed on the sticker is 1.5) is now three years old.

Sorry, OT but here is one lengthy discussion about the similar solution.

Have you tried the wheel configuration* change, this reboots deeper than the power off and scroll wheel salute. * reminder to change the correct wheels back when done.

No worries at all, three winter in a row and haven’t had any issues. The magic is proper wither tires, all-season is not for this.

No, you can’t access without taken off. If you are willing to cut a hole in the lower belly right under the louvre actuator you might get some access but is it worth? The bumper is very easy to take off, drivers side can be changed even with the harness unclipped.

Thanks for the clarification, mine was broken because someone before I purchased the car had the front bumper off and the louvers were not set right after installation so the fins/flaps were broken off the driver pin. I managed to fix this but it was short lived, the air pressure during everyday...

Not quite right, see this post…

I believe they have used some kind of heated welding on the factory, as the plastic is PU (if not mistaken) then you would need suitable glue (right one can be found, but is not always present at shops). If you go with the double side tape then it should be very thin as the bracket will then be...

You can ask Tesla about the eMMC change by opening a service request on the app, they will give you answer accordingly. If you have followed the suggestion and cleaned up said memory and also have removed any USB device while rebooting the car then it should make fresh start. That memory fix...

Can’t you make a screenshot of that file or attach available PDF file?

I might think if this issue that OP is describing will return then there might be possibility that the fins rotating axle have shifted one tooth on the actuator, hence the temporary manual assisting resolving the errors. Photo attached.

Is your car equipped with the manual release under the glove box? Here is emergency response guide, made a screenshot of that section:

Did the alerts started to appear since you installed the OHMMU battery?

It used to be (well it is always) if I use non-Tesla charging wand that tapping on the door does open it and pushing the button next to the charge port does unlocks and I can get on my way. No need to use app or MCU screen.

This cover can be popped up but I’m not sure it’s a speaker. Here is a A pillar cover from backside of older car where the small cover has “Airbag” stamped on it.

This is the new location, before 2015 I believe it was under the air inlet, buried deep behind the fuse boxes.

If you are already in the service menu then why not to try to partial redeploy software? There is a section in the user manual describing what and when.

I do not know how does it look behind a refresh new head light but on previous model it was possible to adjust the beam manually.

Is the 12V battery buried under the front HVAC inlet on your car? I have 2016 70D and the 12V is right behind the frunk in the middle of it.

Well here it’s been quite long ago simple 5x5 rule, which means 5m from front of the car the beam should be 5cm down from horizontal hight. You need to convert this to imperial measurement. Haven’t measured this on my car but just recently been with ICE car to annual check and this was discussed...

If it hasn’t changed then it’s 175Nm or 129 lb. ft

I haven’t done this yet myself but have prepared by purchased two axis T type small level so I can adjust the horizontal and vertical face on the radar. You want the car also be correctly at level. On the front of the radar you can find two different screws that will give you the needed access...

It was a added package back then when they offered different car prices, then they moved forward with all options included. I’m surprised that it’s no longer there.

I would think it’s a water ingress on the radar unit connector or the unit itself.

No, it has not been changed, the message just disappeared. I believe they will give me a right message when it‘s needed.

I have simlar age battery back on mine and the service did confirmed that they had internal error and the system should now be corrected. You should get the proper warning when the fuse NEEDS to be changed. The false message was a warning to change it soon.

Is the rear edge of the sunroof to high? Or the seal in this section have cracks? Or something else? If you are on incline and the water can enter the seals at the rear edge then it might be the situation that there is no escape at the front edge…

You do not need to be in diagnostic, just open the “service menu“ and then unlock the gateway. By service menu I mean the option via your car logo as instructed in post #2.

Just to notice this is Model S section, these car’s have dedicated speed adjustment stalk (and it’s on the left side). I do believe that OP was asking about speed adjustment on the newer model with the horizontal screen. For which I can’t unfortunately give any suggestions.

Yes, I would ask service as this fob programming will remove the old key’s. You can purchase new fob’s, there can be up to 3 programmed to your car. If choosing ebay for source then be prepared that the fob’s you provide might not be accepted for the car. I’m not from US but it might be around...

It’s the SW version that your MCU1 car is on that does not support additional service functions. I have seen that gradually they are giving these function to the Legacy car’s too, just a bit time if you dear to wait.

I would also argue about the same amount of labor taken for the two identical coolant pumps sitting next to each other. That labor amount listed to get to and then to put the side parts back to is all same for individual work. If they already has taken the frunk open then why to charge twice?

It’s unfortunate situation OP is currently dealing but I had a thought, as @MP3Mike have suggested I will try to convince the service to come to an agreement that you (the OP) accept to solve this matter with the Infotainment Upgrade but with the price of the single IC that they have quoted you.

You can actually turn the AP1 summon IF you are standing by the car (preferably next to the front tire) during summon and frequently disturb that side front US sensor. The car will turn away from that “appeared object” but it’s not like turning on a street. I used this to get that corner clear...

The difference is in your car, early one’s had only monitoring units that did not shower any values. If yours are with the upgraded functions then you can’t use the cheaper one’s, hence their quote for the B version units. I believe you can find suitable TPM sensors from this side of the pond as...

Just received update from the SeC, they stated that Tesla had internal system failure and all car’s were pointed out with the warning. Also they reported that if the car will show the warning (hopefully now actual one!) you have then half a year to get it changed.

There was one guy here, worth to see this posting. I don’t think so that Tesla will accept to make that change. But who knows?

And that one.

Sorry, can’t seem to follow but where did you put the Moog part? Is it on the same place as on the second photo of post #1?