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Ok I went out and did a drive. Mild acceleration to reproduce the vibration. Looks like the front motor is doing a large portion of the work, starting at about 30mph, more than half at least with 2023.27.7. Front & Rear Motors data

Sorry im not good with acronym's. What is SMT? I have Tes-LAX and TM_Spy, but Im not sure I can get what we need from those. I have only used them once 2 yrs ago.

I have the hardware (cables) to check .38, but I don't have that app, can you share a link to that app please.

Im curious what you guys think of these number. This is stock suspension measured in low. I have 20x10 275/35 on all 4. I have no issues with inner tire wear etc. Is my alignment the reason I have no issues?

I have 25k on mine at this point. I have not bother rotating for the last 10k since they are dead even all around. Only have another 5-7k left on them.

Willing to sell a single?

I actaully tried this in the past, and the car just lurched hard. I thought I was going REALLY slow when pulling off the brake. I need to get this down to real racing. Thanks for the help.

Do i keep the accelerator completely to the wood while "modulating" the brake? I just noticed my post above, track mode was meant to say "cheetah stance" 🤦🏻‍♂️

I've seen another similar video, the car is completely gutted. What I REALLY wanna know is how is he bumping the car in for the 2nd bulb after getting into track mode.

I have PS4's on 20x10 275/35 with no issues, other than the PS4's I have do not have the acoustic foam. Im curious if maybe the 285's do i would get them when mine are done.

Every time @WilliamG discuss all the "quirks" and annoyances and rattles and vibrations on our Plaids, all we have to do is floor it. The monstrous smile returns every time. I absolutly love my Plaid. I've been drag racing my whole life, and the Plaid is the pinnacle of best of both worlds...

All refresh cars come with "premium audio". At one point in the past there was an upgrade to audio known as UHFS. At some point, I dont know exactly when, it was no longer an option and all cars came with it.

The trailing letter typically refers to version. G is a newer version of the same part. So I would suspect it will only be compatible with the dates mentioned.

You are a hypermile expert then! I have a plaid, and Im impressed with it's efficiency compared to my '14 MS and '15 85D. The plaid is more efficient, and I drive it like I stole it. Floor it once per drive at least 🤣

Sounds about right, but you must have been on a predominantly flat or downhill trip, not going faster than 65.

I have a square setup 20x10 +35 275/35 on my plaid with PS4 102YXL, which I believe is the correct load for the Plaid.

Nurburgring Looks like they are discontinued. Via the link below Amazon had one for $277, so I actually bought the last one for me as a spare. https://www.amazon.com/TSW-NURBURGRING-Wheel-5x120mm-offset/dp/B003NJF2NK

Yes, my bad. I forgot the tires were not directional.

The refresh Model S has "staggered" wheels in both 19" and 21" form. This means there's no option to rotate.

I had 2 pre -refresh MS's before my Plaid. Every single interior part is new on the refresh except the seat rails. All for the better. If you're worried about the yoke, get the round wheel. The cars are massively improved from your 2020 car.

On one of the facebook groups, someone mentioned that they installed this and love the result. Im interested but I am afraid to under drive the new woofer and it will sound muddy. It's an inexpensive driver, but the time it would take to swap is my concern. I dont want to spend the time...

Yeah I agree, I think it relates to our lack of really cold weather in SoCal

I've had a plaid since Sept 2021. I have never moved the setting from Plaid. I had no clue, I thought just like you said @ucmndd said, it only changes the cooling profile under drag strip mode. Here's the link to the Manual where it has this info...

Yes this is true. At some point on my 2015 MS s similar situation occurred. Basically everything except the painted cover is attached to the door including the wire harness and must be replied. At least that's what they did under warranty . Edit, after looking at your pics OP, you might...

Still makes enough power to go 9's at 20%, so their 100hp sounds ways off to me In my experience you lose about 1-2 tenths when you get below 75%, so that's about 20-30hp.

They worked, but I had to bring the car back in because they basically did not reattach a single door panel properly. I came back the next day and they took that car right in and replaced every single clip (as they should have) . When I drove away that time, the car was significantly...

So it turns out that the handles do NOT have ppf. I was able to get the SC to order me new plastic painted parts and they replaced all four with significantly more white paint. It's no longer an annoyance for me. I also was able to get my local PPF guy to replace the ppf on front of the rear...

I had similar damage from a truck changing lanes into me while he was trying to avoid a stopped car on the Fwy. My damage was more severe and the total was $14k, so sounds like your estimate is quite high

I have 20" TSW's on 275/35 PS4 at 45psi I cracked a 1.44, otherwise stock, but that 1.29 is ridic!

Ordering the wrong part has been a consistent theme with service.

Ummm....no. You have a refresh MS, then it is on the right side rear wheel hump. NOT the dash left of steering under.

I had a similar issue when my computer was upgraded. It turned out that the car needed a map update to get FSD to work again. The 1st time. That came within a day, but SC being as they are they "upgraded" the car with an 8GB computer. (wrong computer) The next time I took it in to...

I'm on my 3rd MS and 2nd MX since Q1 2014. The cars have become amazing. Service, definely WAY downhill. I've know my SA since 2014, she's great, but the guys doing the work. Suck. 9/10 times they touch the car now, they either don't fix the issue or break something else, or BOTH...

To follow up here: My radar was successfully disconnected and my homelink continues to work! Unfortunately though, my console is still not right. The lower light now only turns on when the main door is started to close. It is going to have to go back for the 4th time for this now.

My Plaid is actually in service at this moment to resolve my center console lighting mix up (3rd time in for this) AND they added remove radar sensor. I just pinged my SA and gently requested that they nudge the tech to make sure that he remembers to plug it back in. I hope I don't come...

I not sure how much you spend (time and $) but I think Tesla service is not too unreasonable on this. The new part is $150, and labor to do it is $126.

I have 20x10 +35 (275/35) on all four of my plaid without any issues. 20k on the clock, same set of ps4's no odd wear on inside shoulders. Drag race times are great. 1.48 60' ft regularly, so traction is unaffected. Over all efficiency is 309wh/mi which is amazing.

Sounds about right. The HVAC system goes into full power to keep the motors cold and the battery warm.

Looks like a bad LCD. Willing to bet the screen will physically need to be replaced.

Yeah definetly not my Lucid. Was at my detailers shop and he asked to use mine for some promo shots. I did drive it and mess with it for about 30 mins. It took me 10 mins to figure out how to get the radio to play some music, so yeah the software is junk. Since I have a plaid, the...

Yes exactly, TSW Nurburgrings 20x10 +35 lighter than the OEM 19’s. I am able to rotate without any issues of course, but I find that all 4 wear evenly. The ONLY bummer is Michelin does not offer an “acoustic” version of the PS4 in my size, so these make a bit more noise than the OEM tires do...

I have a 20x10 275/35/20 square setup

Unfortunately you bought high, and the market got flooded with folks getting them to resell them when there was a shortatage. I Ordered mine in Sept 2020 on Battery day and paid $127k with FSD. Now they can be bought for even less than I paid. Dont get hung up on reselling it and drive...

I made it to about 10k before the vibration showed up. It was much higher frequency that what i anticipated. Im at 20k now. It drives me nuts, but I just printed some lowering links in the hopes that not only the car will look better it will alleviate the vibration. FYI for a period of...

Torque wins races, horsepower sells cars. You are misinformed as stated in the posts above, the Plaid makes significantly more torque than any Tesla to date.

they typically charge about $200 (battery included) to come and replace it for you and no charge to check logs, but I could be wrong.

That is about what it looks like when your 12V battery is going bad. Put in a service request, they will check the logs and confirm/deny

Hopefully that is not a blackhole mailbox and a human with some sort of authority puts their eyes on that.

No issues at all. Times are in line with what is expected. Car is dead consistent and when the track is not loose, my times are consistent with the slips shown here

Yea that’s the reason I went with square, although I suspect my alignment must be a unicorn based on what you keep saying since my inner shoulders show no wear whatsoever. Totally even along the entire width of the tread. You’d think even with rotation I would see some wear in the shoulders...