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Biggest impact on range. High treadwear = less traction more solid rubber, less friction. High mileage tire 50k or higher reduces range due to heavier (extra rubber for your mileage life) Get 45k or less tire (weighs less), change tires more often. Cheaper tires ok. If possible get 7.5 inch...

If people like low wh/mi, do not get treadwear warranty mileage above 45k (40k ideal). Change tires more often opposed to get a 80k mi tire. You carry more rubber around for no good reason really, its like a spare. Also no Z rated tires. It makes a difference in range, these are the true...

You can move the stalk in the same direction to cancel! It bothered me at first to cancel, but then I realized this method.

Just posted same in another thread. Z rated tires or tires with low treadwear rating suck for EVs. Get the highest treadwear tire, this will avoid sticking to the road making easier for the vehicle to move. They add upto 40-80wh/mi (city/hwy) inefficiency which is crazy.

I have recently come to terms that Z rated tires are vampires for EV efficiency (this is on a p3 with aeros). I went from a solid 240wh/mi avg to 280wh/mi in city and 320wh/mi on highway. My car just became a city car just because of tires. If you want efficiency, go with the highest...

If you hit 69%, they give you a pack 75% just so they dont have to swap it out in a few days. You dont get another 100% pack.

Its a numbers game. More cells mean a dead cell counts less towards degradation. Wait till the 4680s have a dead cell. It will have a massive drop in range. Hence 18650 is better, but more expensive.

Honestly if Tesla wants to bankrupt itself, all they have to do put the yoke on the 3/Y. This is how you stand behind a foolish decision to show is its really better to something that wasn't flawed to begin with. They will quickly realize it.

https://electrek.co/2019/05/25/tesla-model-3-moose-test/ Police use this test to judge how the vehicle handles. That steering yoke will never be used if the vehicle is equipped with it.

Yoke fails on the moose test, now try that on a mountain road.

I have this problem too. It is due to the temperature and the screen is separating with the glass surface. I dont know if they will replace it, still under new car warranty. If anyone got theirs replaced, please post. Also looks like while the sunroof is glass, too much heat is making into...

Anyone drive around mountain roads. How are you speeds compared to avg car going around. Very interested in choosing life.

2018 M3P here, car only feels seriously alive (true M3P) at 90% + batt charge. Frequent charges over 90% you get warning dont charge over 90 daily or battery dmg may occur (This is what hurts the most to me, I cant enjoy the vehicle to avoid damaging the battery). It starts getting meh at 70%...

So I had the 12v battery fail on my M3P and outside temp was 105 deg in San Jose. So heat does seem to kill the battery, but sad thing is not one peep of a warning of a dying battery, until it dies and leaves you in dead water. Luckily for me it happened in my driveway (I have been using the...

The design actually resembles how the coil fits and the meaning of the logo. Should have just fit as much has you can.

Less weight is important! Road friction is constantly stopping your rotation. Hence 18s are superior.

The new part # is more sturdy/rigid the service center showed and mentioned it. It is also resistant to water weight being absorbed by the material. The old one was not.

Also weight is reduced, im suprised no one is mentioning weight. Although not enough for a boost alone to 353.

What about this, do you think its because model y 21s are too heavy and aeros would have gotten him the same? Still waiting to see someone with p3d and their timing.

I have a P3D- with aeros, will these MW not be worth better handling, 0-60, and slightly better whr/mi at 18x7.5?

So 0-60 measurement is point of observer on the outside the system, noted.

Not everyone wants to invest, but are curious to know. All owners can do this as everyone has a recording device at 60fps, the phone. Measuring speedometer on the dash, with a webpage open on the dash browser with a google search stop watch timer is pretty accurate. What it won't give you is...

Awesome, I will try it out as well.

you will have to record the center dash with speed and a google webpage stopwatch on the side. Then you watch and start last frame of 0 to first frame of 60 in the video and subtract from timer value.

If you can bench 0-60 on those when you get them, interested myself for range and quicker 0-60!

I only get the P feeling now when the charge is 85%+. Im not saying its slow, but the extra power feel is only there to me at that state of charge. Its quite alive at 100% even if its short lived. Below 40% I just treat it as a non P car. All this because I have gotten accustomed to the power.

Doesnt the new S have PMSR rear motor now? They dont seem to have a ripple issue :) Its limited on some extent on purpose! Also the 100kwh pack matters.

This is great for the auto function. Off should stay off. Its a choice.

I am in the same boat, it should remember the off setting for those folks who find it extremely annoying that on a bright day they remain on when starting a drive. Also going under an under pass the turn on, then remain on for a long time. Its dumb. Auto is available for the auto folks. Btw...

The lithium battery doesnt charge below zero, the temperature needs to be raised and there is no heating element in the battery. As long as you are not in freezing weather and you didnt park it for a long time you will be fine with lithium battery. Basically you will create a chicken and the...

Any one have 0-60 timings for the 18x7.5 rims on a performance with 1 foot rollout?

There are 2 battery consumers in your vehicle 1) The battery itself self discharges or eats it self 2) The car and its electronics. Unlike a ICE vehicle that when you turn it off, it is off, however the lead acid battery eats itself as well. You just need enough juice to start the engine. You...

I was going to ask if anyone has used this to enable fake LR mode by just using track mode with 100% to rear wheels. Then drive some distance and look at wh/mi to see if its worth it. I havent gotten a chance to try this out yet.

Tesla FI eats battery, frequent wake ups and sleeps. No way around this.

But you want the car to obey EPA rating? Perhaps drive at EPA speeds. 48-60mph no more without hvac, seat heaters, windows open or music blasting. Everyone seems to lack EPA testing methods, learn those, then you may ask questions if it is not meeting those.

Yes noticeable difference, much quieter at high speeds. Mind you it doesnt do anything to the road noise from the tires if thats the problem you face. The air usually creats the "frfrfr" and the Road creates "rmblrmblrmbrl" This reduces the air noise.

I can agree, higher this imbalance V, it means you have a leeching drain cell somewhere which just self discharges all the time. Others keep feeding it power to balance. Unfortunately this will happen over time to everyone.

I tried this sponge stuffing and yes the wind noise is now muffled at 80mph. It is much better than before, but not eliminated. Basically reduces the "frfrfrrfrfrfrfrfrrfr" noise to a muffled level from the A pilars.

From your picture the black plastic point is also causing the wind noise. It needs to be glued in a little bit. It was really bad on mine and ended up just crazy glueing the plastic to the rubber.

I do believe slow charging is a factor. The way batteries charge is a toggle game of high voltage, then low voltage, till input V = output V during the charge cycle. If you fast charge, you input voltage is much higher, which will bring your output voltage higher as well quickly. But not...

I just recently went through this calibration cycling and it does seem to work. My 100% was at 284. I got the car down to low 20mi couple of times and charged it up slowly with 20A max. It started bumping up the range everytime. Currently it ended up showing me 305mi on the slider! Looking...

Now its the same as legacy using prismatic cells, how can Tesla claim battery superiority now? 1) Cooling is worse 2) Battery pack puffing up can damage adjacent cells Is this just a pure cost reduction game now?

No matter how hard you try, your foot pressure will vary by a large amount. The only way to combat that in efficiency is chill mode. Thats like saying a GT500 mustang can get the same mileage as the base mustang if I feather the pedal.

Chill mode in weather rain/snow and long trips for -15wh/mi. It matters as you don't floor it accidentally, so you definitely get better wh/mi over long distances. I really wish AP had chill mode (toggle preference) on as your not driving so let it be more efficient. When you disable AP it...

Anyone feel a side affect of the BMS rated range going down and your P3D acceleration feel? Its very different at 85% vs 90+% I thought it started cutting back around 70%, but definitely feels slower at 80%. 100% charge rating now is 284 for me 2018 model. Now I'm not saying battery is...

18s for mileage and slightly quieter/softer ride. Potholes not a problem. minuscule better 0-60. 19s for looks, some efficiency ~6% hit 20s for looks tracking and bigger brakes. Don't focus on efficiency. ~8% hit. Potholes will damage rims depending speed/depth. There are other threads with...

More talk about this again... #34 This is why I mentioned that the power curve is smoother at 0-30, but with dyno mode its not, hence wheel spin/slip from start.

P3D- 18 aeros shows 288 at 100% based on app. Would love to see a 322 just for placebo affect. I stopped paying attention and just drive now.

I was reading this thread here Secret Dyno Mode to disable traction control : teslamotors It seems car spins out of control when flooring it while going straight based on this comment? 4 hours ago If its not losing traction then, I guess its the same old. edit: missed the details, road was wet!

I love it how Tesla has now updated the website to have P3D- at 322 mile range and the optional P3D+ larger wheels at 299. A 23mi difference! Slightly better than the original 280mi testing done with the 310 base rating. At least they are now doing the right thing as no P3D+ owner got anywhere...