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Not really; the car was parked in the garage, during the evening. I've always been able to hear when the aircon switched on, but from what I remember it used to be a fairly low-pitched and tolerable kind of humming sound, not the obnoxious whirring that you can hear in the video.

Can anyone tell me if this is a normal sound for the Model 3 to make (when the A/C powers on, I think is when it does this)? https://photos.app.goo.gl/dBFYQ86o669CFesz7 I'm pretty sure this "sounds like a small aircraft taking off" thing is a new development...or do all the cars make this...

Did some research, and the "PB" stands for "PushButton" (and "WB" I'm pretty sure is something like "Wall Button"); these terminals are for wiring external buttons/switches to the motor. Should be what you want. In theory there's a simple way to test it: 1. Connect a wire to the GND terminal...

The manual I found says it should be PB/GND/PE/+24V? And makes no mention of what the PB terminal actually does. I think it might work for you with the Ditec if you wire using PB/GND/+24V (don't see what the "extra" terminal would be for, aside from the same thing that every other garage door...

Recently back from an overseas trip. Left the Model 3 in covered parking, sans charger, for the three week duration. Cabin overheat protection and Sentry mode were disabled (and to make doubly sure I disconnected the storage device from the USB port). The car had 84% charge when I dropped it...

Had my Homelink retrofit (Model 3) on Wednesday. Promptly discovered that it wasn't going to work with my garage door (ATA GDO-11). Today installed the Ditec receiver/relay, and it's working as advertised. Wiring was fairly straightforward, I used some 2.5mm DC cable (smallest diameter I...

Absolutely agree. The same standards should apply to every manufacturer that does this.

Not from the app, as far as I can tell. I think if you remember to disable the setting from inside the car when you hand it over then it stays disabled permanently? Or if that fails then physically disconnecting the storage device would certainly do it. But the Brisbane bodyshop had Tesla...

No it isn't. Not if Tesla makes features that can't be safely operated by people who assume they'll do what they say without error freely available to every person who buys a car from them. That's not a responsible way of rolling out features that may fail in unknown and potentially dangerous...

Just did a quick test drive around the block. "Hold" mode worked fine, no reboots required. Works both forwards and in reverse, and doesn't seem phased by hills either.

One thing I noticed was that if you had creep mode disabled prior to installing the update, then after installing you're defaulted to "hold" (or in other words, to single-pedal mode). Fine by me, though could catch some people by surprise.

Mine as well. Just finished installing 2019.36.2.2. Seemed to happen on its own, although other possibilities are: 1. This morning I repeated the 'Tap and hold' and 'Tap 5 times' on the 'Advanced' button process. Nothing appeared to happen at the time. 2. Tesla has been in contact about...

Don't press 5 times. Tap and hold. Worked for me. :) Edit: though to clarify, it worked for going from 2019.32.12.2 to 2019.32.12.4. Neither holding nor tapping works for advancing beyond that.

Started around there, but found it wasn't adequate for midday driving (and also that the car would start running the heat at times when it definitely wasn't needed). 22C is tolerable without the sunshades, or mostly comfortable with them.

I'll try that tomorrow. Today I let it run for a couple of hours with the wall charger disconnected. Everything else the same as the previous test (I'm not in the car, car is sitting parked/locked in the garage, 27C ambient temp, 22C aircon temp, auto mode). The car started on 86% charge at...

That's correct. Could be it operates differently when unplugged, though in terms of what can be observed by sitting in the car it doesn't seem like being plugged in puts it into "overdrive" mode or anything. The cooling feels the same whether on A/C power or battery. Or perhaps better...

Repeated the A/C test this morning. Ambient/interior temp was 27C when I started. Car was parked in the garage. I wasn't sitting in the car this time (should make cooling the cabin a bit easier). Aircon still set to 22C, auto mode. Took only a few minutes to bring the interior temp down...

Finally tested the aircon power usage. Did it at night so it wouldn't have been under much stress. Ambient temp around 24C, interior temp read the same. I sat in the passenger seat and used the app to turn the aircon on. Aircon was set to 22C, auto mode. Screen was left off. The car is...

I had the same weirdness with mine. After manually setting it to 32A a few times it should start to remember. Don't mess with any settings in between; just schedule it for your preferred time and as many amps as it will allow, and then if/when it starts charging at only 16A dial it up, from...

You've got a proper trunk mat! Is that the official one from Tesla?

Don't think I've ever spent long enough sitting inside with it parked and on standby to find out. Will test it the next time I get a new batch of sentry clips that I need to copy off and see if/how it changes over time.

I've measured it at home using the Tesla/Powerwall app with the car plugged in and the Aircon switched on (not charging). The car will pull 2 to 2.5kW in this configuration. Seems a bit high given the relatively small volume of space it needs to cool? How do you measure/log the % efficiency...

That would make it too obvious, I think. I coated the front windscreen but skipped the top glass panel and there's a significant difference between what water does on each one. Same when comparing the body panels against the top glass. Armor Shield IX. Someone suggested it over in the Model...

Yes. For every event that the car reports you should have one folder under 'SentryClips' named like 'YYYY-MM-DD_hh-mm-ss'. I use the same drive. Never had a problem with missing sentry events. Occasionally would get corrupted clips when the car was running the factory (V9, I think?)...

Applied a ceramic coat to the Model 3 recently, after getting the car back from the bodyshop (where they fixed some paint issues). From what I can tell it seems to have made a difference, but that could just be a placebo effect. So...how about a poll? Here's a couple of photos of the car...

Applied the ceramic coating (Armor Shield IX) today. Noticed several additional defects in the paint (embedded dirt/dust particles, mostly) while doing the surface prep. This after just picking the car up from the bodyshop, where they fixed several defects with the paint. But meh, Tesla's...

The body shop charged my car about 30 minutes ago. Hope that means I can have it back soon. :) Been spying on them via the app, after having the trunk open for several days (some paint issues on that part) it finally closed today. They also had the frunk and doors open for awhile today (ditto...

My understanding is they're the only officially approved (whatever that means) bodyshop for Tesla in QLD. Though I also heard they're in the process of approving a second shop in Caloundra (no ETA), which would have made my warranty repairs much more convenient.

I know, right? Never thought I was the sort of person who could miss a car. But it's a legitimately excellent car.

That's cheating! Not actually letting AP do its thing will of course be quite non-terrifying. :)

I think they want it to go into Autopilot and not suddenly accelerate. Which it currently does if you're traveling well below the limit when you trigger AP (if there's no car in front of you). Try it when you're on a slow approach to a roundabout (which AP has no idea how to handle). It's...

Looks like they had to take my car out back and shoot it.

Okay, but the Model 3 has both motor types (or at least the dual motor ones do). A full regen stop should be possible.

How do you measure this?

I don't understand this. You can do single-pedal driving with the Model 3 already. Why does it need its own "mode"? Maybe it adds regen to the final stretch from ~8kph to 0 (which as far as I can tell has zero regen currently) and automatically triggers hold-mode when your speed hits 0? That...

Impossible. Elon said he'd fix it! I have a pair. They're sitting in the the back of my car, in Brisbane, at the bodyshop. In fact all of the accessories I had ordered, aside from the two I really wanted (all-weather trunk mat and wheel-cap kit), were with Tesla when I showed up for my...

Oddly enough, one of the other people with a service appointment at Tesla Brisbane had similar complaints. Tesla rep blamed it on "issues with Spotify's servers" and said there was nothing they can do. Which is true enough, if Spotify really is having server issues. Drive Accident Solutions...

Dropped the car off for service today (paint and body issues, mostly). Brisbane Tesla extremely disorganized, and worse hasn't done any planning whatsoever with regards to courtesy vehicles. Not even when they've been told in advance that the bodyshop needs to keep the car for multiple days...

I was told, via SMS from Darren in Brisbane, that the body shop (or actually, the "body shop team", whatever that is) would contact me. That was nearly two weeks ago now, and nothing heard from any body shop/team. Replied via SMS last Friday, and no response so far. Tesla app still shows a...

I had some initial trouble getting them to activate as well. The trick was to ensure that the car is on (tap the brake) and in neutral (half-tap on the right stalk, I think).

Oh good. Same model and ship and FSD status for me. Now I don't have to dismantle the glovebox area, will just assume I've got the same HW version instead.

I'd stick with vandalism. Assault seems a bit far considering that the only "threat" is of towing the car and billing the owner for it. Maybe it can also be harassment, like if you stalked a car around and put stickers on it repeatedly. Probably there should. But don't underestimate local...

Worth noting that SR+ and AWD/Performance efficiencies won't be comparable as the SR+ has 10% less mass and probably also gets some benefit out of having one motor instead of two (probably around half as much resistive loss in the drivetrain?).

Judging from this topographic map of Melbourne, the trick is to just always ensure you'll be driving downhill. Silly me, I've been doing it wrong! :D

Noticed that the 150Wh/km needed to reach the 500km range claimed in the UI is actually attainable when driving with the climate control off. Of course with the climate here that's an exercise in masochism most of the year.

Never tried running it overnight, but from what I've seen in general I would definitely switch it off for anything over a week. 4 days probably fine as long as you don't need a ton of charge to get to/from the airport. There seems to be...I've noticed on several occasions that I can dial up...

I get 8kW displayed in the car. In practice I think it's rounding up from ~7.7kW (32A, single phase). Not sure what it is in displayed km/h, but if I go by the car's assumption that a full charge is 500 kms/75kWh then it works out to around 51.3 km/h.

Kinda. At 8x speed I'm watching each cam for about 7.5 seconds. So about as efficient as 2x playback speed on an app that does all 4 cameras at once.

I've been using VLC. Available on all major platforms. No TeslaCam-specific bells and whistles, but I find that with the playback speed set to 4-8x it gets the job done.

I have the v10 update and my nav data says '2018.12-983'. It doesn't have some local speed-limit changes that I'm pretty sure were in effect prior to 2018. Speedtest from the car says 56 down / 37 up.