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what could they be doing wrong? They read a range value at a given percentage, correlate to 100% No more, no less.

2019 Performance. It shows 467km at 100% now. Tessie tells me degradation is 7.6%, capacity 69.4kWh, but I 've never relied on Tessie (or Teslafi for that matter) , only Scan My Tesla.

i don't know either. Tessie uses 75.2kWh as original battery size, and shows 8.9% which was close to the Tesla service mode. I'm now happy to think that my battery is sitting at 71.5kWh, may not be correct, but it makes me feel better :)

Talking to a Tesla "battery" tech, after I had raised a service support he mentioned that about 4 years old and older, all appear to flatten at 15% degradation and company-wide that's where it levels. And that my car was doing a bit better than others at similar age. He wouldn't provide however...

Has anyone noticed their reported range increasing over the last few weeks? My battery used to be around 68.5kWh (Australian model 3 performance stealth, made in USA). Now Scan my Tesla tells me it’s 71.1kWh (and similar report showing using the energy screen method). I haven’t changed my...

car isnow running 2023.12.5 but it started with 203.12.1 I was playing with the filters in the list of chargers that let you display either destination charger, fast DC chargers and Suoerchargers. i tapped to ony show fast chargers. Immediately the car only showed a single entry. And that is...

I thought that made in Shanghai LR and Perfermance we’re getting the LG NC 78kWh battery? And that the Panasonic was only found for US cars

Yeah, last time it failed as I kept going into the car to check the progress. This time I let it do its thing and only came once I knew the car had finished charging and the wall charger no longer showed any activity.

It needs to take the battery down to zero before it attempts to charge again. That will take a couple of hours. Of course it won’t start charging with a SoC of 8.1%

Did it again, now that 2023.6 makes it easy to enter service mode (no more geofencing). Came back with 91% and scan my tesla gives me 68.4kWh. Interesting that Tesla seems to use 75kWh as basis for calculating the degradation, rather than the "initial battery capacity" shown in Scan My Tesla...

Not in Australia it isn’t.

Wel, that was a bit of a bummer. The test had completed. But for SOH it was still showing —- So not sure what happened here.

The difference between 1.5mm2 and 2.5mm2 over 10m is 5.2V vs 2.86V drop. A 36W loss difference ; over one hour charge you would have lost 36Wh, assuming 24c/kWh that’s 0.9c per hour: basically bugger all. Heavy duty doesn’t describe the wiring; it describes the insulation around it. It’s...

I'm not sure it helped that much TBH, it didn't go down to 0 as I read lots of people mention, it stopped at 8%.

So I'm running it on mine. I started with 20%. It went down to 8% and then stayed there for about 2 hours. After that it started charging. The test was only using about 6kW to discharge the battery, having a 2019 model 3 with a resistive heater, I also started the heater to max temperature...

So I'm running it on mine. I started with 20%. It went down to 8% and then stayed there for about 2 hours. After that it started charging. The test was only using about 6kW to discharge the battery, having a 2019 model 3 with a resistive heater, I also started the heater to max temperature...

yeah, and luckily, with a 2019 car, you can drop the SoC by about 10%/hour :)

Found that thread Battery health test

I’ve lowered the battery to 48% (running the heater to its max on my 2019 M3; that draws between 6 and 7kW). But it tells me that my SoC is too high.

So I stopped over in front of my local Tesla service centre and could put the car in service mode. Has anyone ever played with this? “Vehicle needs to be plugged into a >= 6kW AC charger. The test will take up to 24 hours. Do not interact with the vehicle or the test may abort. See Toolbox...

The SMT screenshot was for a 2 weeks old LR, I had physical access to that car and plugged my OBD2 adapter on it. I didn't at the time knew about using the energy screen to estimate the capacity, so I do not have that data. I could access that car again and check it out again. The 74kWh I...

This is Scan My Tesla data of one, that's an August 2022 of Made In China LR.

What's more puzzling to me is a brand new Made in China LR (so 78.8kWh LG NMC battery) delivered last week is showing as 74kWh under the same calculation. So that figure would seem here to not include the buffer (3.5kWh on that car)

You would expect that the estimated range shown in the energy screen would be from the *useable* capacity. Considering the rest isn’t “useable” :)

Ok. That's what I thought. I'm confused then on why going by the energy screen and as per your calculation, it's 68.3kWh then. Why such a difference with `last_average * estimating_distance_remaining / percentage`

On this topic, in reference to Calculating Your Battery's Estimated Capacity Using the Car's Energy Screen and calculating the battery capacity. Going by my energy screen, 141Wh/km * 402km / .83 = 68.3kWh Which is what ScanMyTesla is also showing exactly: 68.3kWh for "nominal full pack". But it...

My 2019 Long Range Performance (Stealth) shows 280 miles at 100% (450km) so that would be 238 miles at 85%. The capacity is showing at 68.5kWh these days. 251 miles sounds pretty good to me.

I have put the 18” wheels from TSportline on my 3 performance; with the EPrimacy the rim is recessed by about 5mm from the tyre. Now, I thought it was due to the shape of the wheel and not the tyre itself. It isn’t flushed like it was with the PS4 and the Tesla wheels

They fit perfectly, but Tesla cap is black. It won't match the space gray.

I ended up putting ePrimacy ST (Volvo) on my 3. A bit dearer than the standard ePrimacy. ST stands for Sound Tuning, apparently they are quieter. They were advertised as having "Noise cancelling system" but all it is a a slightly different thread pattern. I can't really tell the difference...

Or $35.99 for a set of 4? https://www.ebay.com/itm/255144281482 no programming needed?

did you end up going with the e.primacy in the end? I'm getting 18" TSportline wheels to fit my model 3 performance. I like the idea of better energy usage. Curious on how different they go against the PS4 T0 (or the newer T1), here in Australia the PS4 are 47% more expensive !

Not seeing this in Australia with 4.10.0

I have those installed, they look super nice;

I'm not sure on why you think you'd be able to compare. Different cars, different weight, different profile. Surely all the differences between the two that you may experience have little to do with the batteries themselves.

What are the plus side of NMC batteries over NCA here?

I upgraded my OEM 18" with Michelin PS4 with the Tesla's OEM 19" sports wheel that I got 2nd hand and put Hankook 235/40/R19 96W K127 Ventus S1 EVO3 (TO)Silent. They are the tyres that Tesla use here for Australian cars. I'm super happy with those. The tyres are quieter than the PS4 and I've...

I would have needed to do that when I first got the car (and back then I would have been too much of a chicken to try); and then find the exact same route with exact same weather conditions: all of which is just impossible. Battery is now showing at 70.4kWh today, so a tiny bit more than 9.5%...

Charged to 100% yesterday before going on a 310km journey. I averaged 145Wh/km which is pretty good all things considered (2019 Performance with 19" sports wheel). I had the heater off most of the time, only using the seat heater (it was 15C outside, winter is coming) Before starting it showed...

you don't say what car you have and its build date. So can't comment. 295 miles would be much better than my car (July 2019 build) which only gives me 464km (288 miles)

Sorry, I didn't realise this was a 2021 thread.

The main reason I'm picky is to determine my level of battery degradation. So it started with 78.5kWh (75kWh usable after we remove the buffer) and it's now 69.6. So a 11.3% degradation in 2 years, that seems high to me.

TMC lost my edits, so trying again. I did a drive from 100% to 10% last week, so the car has "calibrated" itself quite nicely. What the current nominal capacity is showing as, is exactly what it was when I had the car sit at 100% overnight. 69.6kWh and 459km is what was showing if I set the...

It's what the charging screen shows when you drag the cursor. All I'm saying is that the 155Wh/km you've given doesn't translate in reality with the figures available in the car

I have *never* seen any value like you describe; you a line with "typical". And I watch that screen all the time and I've had my car since September 2019. There are two lines: a dotted one which is your average, and a continuous one typical. I think you're misremembering.

Actually; something doesn't quite add-up. At 100%, my car shows 459km range By the figure above, 459 * .1525 = 69.99kWh (let say 70) ScanMyTesla shows the following: Nominal Full Pack: 69.6kWh I guess that 70 is close enough to 69.6kWh. However, as I understand it; 69.6kWh is the nominal...

This video tries to dumb it down a bit: But one of the primary reason is the side drag resistance; tyres being a flat surface on the size have almost none, leaving the wheel. The bigger the wheel, the higher the drag (and that's not impacted by the weight of the wheel)

Well, that's not me: my car was showing 500km when I bought it, and now it shows 454km at 100% ; battery is showing as being 69.6kWh only (July 2019 made Performance Minus)

So; in places where you typically don't need to use the heater (like where I live) ; in practice it's just an advertising game range numbers. I've been puzzled about getting a new model, simply because I can easily sell my car for more than what I paid it for, which is just crazy. But the...

What makes the 2021 LR so much more efficient than 2019 models? The battery capacity isn't that much different to mine, but it shows 100km extra range.