Search results

The colour of your base coat is the colour of your car. A black car will have black base coat, a white car will have white base coat, a blue car will have blue base coat, etc.The only variation is tricoats where you have a base coat then a mid coat. If you're seeing white scratches in your...

Scratches are always so hard to evaluate through photos, anin person look is the only way to truly know the depth. That being said they do look lighter. I would say they're either polishable or would come out mostly with polish. Should be a minor charge

Lol yes definitely!

Do you have photos? It is pretty common for manufacturers to apply less paint inside the jambs. Sometimes on tricoats they even only apply 2 layers of base and leave out the mid coat. Quite often less clear coat is applied as well I personally would prefer if all my jambs were fully refinished...

Yes using 3M products should help if used properly. Be sure clean and degrease very well and use an adhesion promoter. What vehicles have you previously owned? I cannot think of a single vehicle that does not also have a weatherstrip on the door.

Yes the M3 lower seals are the same, Tesla isn't the first to do this. Some Manufacturers like Ford and Toyota use a combination like clips 75% of the way and only adhesive along the top. And others such as BMW and Volkswagen have used it for the whole weatherstrip around the door without clips...

Hard to say in the photos, but is there some kind of product in the hole? Possibly extra structural adhesive or seam sealer that leaked out? Can you tell of the holes are threaded? Or is it just a thin hole?

FWIW the rocker is steel. Keep in mind other people may have similiar looking damage or damage caused by the same type of impact, but any repair technician will tell you that no 2 repairs are the same. To really know how much it will cost will require taking it in to a repair facility for a in...

Ooof that's a bad one. You would call that the rocker panel on the side aperture panel. It may be a good candidate for replacement. It's obviously punched up quite a bit, but what's under the rocker moulding is probably worse. I'd recommend taking it to a TABS. But do your research first and...

They're not screws or any type of defect. They should just be a stud that is welded to the wheelhouse and the plastic screw/grommet thing just threads on over top of the liner. Other manufacturers do this as well and is not unique to Tesla

/\ This, easy fix

Although I can't confirm the composition of all the paint Tesla uses, I sure wouldn't believe this. It sounds like whoever you were talking to was either told that or made that excuse up on their own to alleviate your worries. There's a few reasons why it wouldn't make sense that they would use...

First 2 look like something rubbed the stone guard after application at the factory before refinish. The last one just looks like something rubbed up against the edge and through the paint on the bumper. I wouldn't consider either of these typical Tesla paint issues but rather one offs. Did...

Looks to be from adjustment, probably to correct panel gaps. Only way to find out is to contact them sooner than later

The rocker isn't removable and will be repaired on the vehicle. The welding or pin pulling technique is the proper way to repair it. A proper rough out will require less filler and help ensure a longer lasting quality repair. Industry standard requires no more than 1/8 inch of filler to be used...

All I can say is that if you want it done right take it to a body shop. Especially a TABS as they would have a better idea on the R&I and OTU parts side of things. If you want it done poorly and next to nothing then touch it up. Don't waste your money on a DIY PDR kit

Interesting, sounds like you guys put a lot of effort into making things convenient customer. Good for you guys Yeesh, sorry to hear. If it were me I'd continue to fight to get it done right. Maybe get a couple quotes from TABS in the meantime.

Hey just a side question for you. What program do you guys use when you provide progress updates and photos? Or do you just text and email them directly?

I was just reading an article about this yesterday how Tesla is offering this as a result of a class action suit in Quebec for the peeling paint. I assume they would have just offered the PPF as a standard included option like several other manufacturers..

Honestly from what I've seen that's the first place you want to apply PPF. Amongst the highest risk area for stone damage and the paint quality (or application process) is so poor that it is more likely to peel or be chipped away exposing the bare metal. Ideally I'd suggest they wrap around...

Yeah I agree with this 100%. Full refinish is the only proper way, and as mentioned if done properly will not be noticable. For me personally I would never be satisfied with a touch up, but that's just me. If you're going to go with full refinish you may be at the mercy of Tesla approving it...

Yeah painting that will be an easy process. Nice clean cut offs and the shop will just mask over the other exterior body panels so it shouldn't damage your ceramic coating. However the roof rail will need reapplication. Didn't whoever applied the ceramic coating not notify you of this scratch...

Lol I was expecting it to be caved in! What you're seeing is either the duraguard under the paint or the ecoat on the metal underneath the duraguard. If you get it fixed by a professional it will not be prone to rust. That's an easy fix, just expensive to do it right

Lol what?? It's obvious the clear is delaminating which would be a paint defect. Sure the paint has been inconsistent and chips easily, but I suppose they can argue their reasons for not fixing those issues. But delamination should never happen and for it to happen on a vehicle this new is...

Appears that Tesla call the one time use fasteners. 33.5 Nm torque specs

From what I can tell it looks like those spots were denibbed and polished but hazed back. Seen it lots with early model 3s. Not a big deal, just needs some additional polishing to fix up

That'd be a warranty issue. I believe those are adhesive? I know from replacing a door that Tesla calls them one time use, so they should just replace it rather than attempting to reattach

Do you have any photos? From what your describing it almost sounds like polishing spots where they denibbed but have hazed back. I've seen that on Teslas before. It's hard to tell from photos, but that almost looks like overspray from refinish. If that's what it is it would be an indicator...

I dont think they would fit on the MY. I haven't seen the back of these wheels but the Y has recessed points on the backside because theres a bolt head for the MY brakes that was internal on the M3 that'snow exposed. You can see it in the Sandy Munro video

Well that's unfortunate, do you have a picture? Hopefully this is a somewhat isolated problem and won't be as common as the regular condensation problem

So you've obviously never tasted coolant before. Probably just about everyone working in an automotive trade and several mechanically inclined individuals as well would know the taste. It's a quick test to aid in diagnosis as the type of glycol used in antifreeze tastes sweet. Nobody is...

Well this one stumps me, I have never seen any fluid yet that would match even close to that for a vehicle. But I haven't had much experience yet with the different types of fluids on a Tesla, maybe they have something this colour for one of their systems or components I'm not aware of. Your...

Late reply and I'm sure you've installed already. But if you place it lower center where a normal plate would be installed you should be fine. There's another radar behind the bumper in addition to the sonar sensors you don't want to stick it over but it's higher up and to the side

I don't see this working as the housing is still to large for the opening you see. The housing is larger than the visible lenses and unless you're forcing it against either the fender or the bumper there's no way to remove it cleanly. Of course seeing is believing sometimes so I'd be happy to...

Do you have photos of yours? I'm thinking either they changed the way the bumper mounts or there's something wrong with yours. If memory serves me correctly the inner part of the bumper mount has a plastic bracket bolted to the fender and the bumper clips onto 2 taps of that bracket (tightly)...

Are you just talking about a bulb rather than an entire housing? I don't see how it would be possible to remove the headlight assembly without taking off the bumper. At least not without causing unnecessary damage to the fender and/or bumper. Or do you have any pics on how he achieved this?

I'd say that's normal give or take some, but especially since you're out east. It's just surface rust though, it's not going to affect the way the arms operate

Dang, sorry to hear! Looking at the dents they are in an odd location to be from the repeater removal. I wouldn't say it's from them trying to pry the camera out as they would have dented the top body line in trying to do so. But who knows what could have happened while it's in for service...

If you want it done right and to look good it'll need to be sanded out and repainted. Very simple job for any decent body shop

Hard to say from the photo for sure. Highly doubt it's corrosion, most likely an excess of ecoat build up on the panel before refinish

You could still get ppf but it won't look good where it covers the scrapes. The deeper the scrapes the larger the air pocket between the bumper and ppf will be and will show. But some kits of ppf won't wrap that far under either, they'll just cut it at the bottom body line. I just skipped...

No need to worry about structural damage on this bump, definitely safe to drive (with or without the missing clip) If you have the clip just make sure the center head is pulled out before you insert the clip into the hole. Once the base is in push the center head in and that will lock it into...

The cover fell off, not the bolt. If you're able to track down a salvage part as previously suggested that'd probably be your best bet if they're saying it's only services with a new bumper cover.

What door seals are you referring to? The weatherstrips on the door? There wouldn't be any additional items on a Tesla that would be made to prevent damage to a rocker panel. That would be an accessory like trucks and SUV's have called rock sliders. Rockers are very susceptible to damage when...

You are correct, both are metals oxidizing. However people tend to use corrosion and rust interchangeably when i don't be they should. If taked loosely they mean the same thing, but in terms of automotive aluminum and regular automotive steel the terms refer to the result of the oxidation to the...

This is poor information from your service writer or whoever told you that it shouldn't rust. Technically he's right it will not rust because aluminum doesn't rust, it corrodes. Aluminum corrodes quite quickly when exposed to the elements. The process litterally starts minutes after being...

So the black base coat you refer to seeing is on the piece flaking off? Or are you saying you see it left on the rocker? I'm certain this is paint flaking off. My question is whether or not it's from an impact on the rocker. I agree additional photos from the OP would be helpful

Is it me or my phone? It appears to be more of a silvery finish underneath the flaking paint (aside from the bumper) Not 100% certain about original stamped panels but all replacement panels come in a tan ecoat.

Ah well sorry to hear. If you are replacing the camera Tesla procedures call for the parameters to be reset after assembly and then the system self calibrates after driving it. Can't remember how far it is, think it's like UP TO 100 miles/160 kms. Would have to look it up to be certain. Either...

It's not the clear coat, you'd still see the base underneath not the bare metal.