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This is the end of the roof liner harness in the passenger A pillar. I thought this was the same harness that powers the dome lights but I can't seem to find a switched line and the colours don't line up. I guess I'm going to have to go your way

got it- Red (3) and blue (4) wires right? I think I've found them in the harness in the a pillar- testing tomorrow hopefully

Is that the yellow wire or the black wire you've tapped into on that dome light?

It does sound like it has changed- this is the plug at the rear of the center console at the bottom- only one brown wire in the entire harness

Yeh that brown wire in the rear of the console stays on when the drivers set is occupied! So its keeping the relay on. Goes off when I exit the vehicle ok but the footwell lights are staying on when driving. Not terrible as they are so dull but not the result I wanted. I'm using the brown wire...

Wow. Yep I'm going to have to go down this path because my mod leaves the #$&@ing lights on when driving. That cable is switched but the drivers seat I think turns it on as well. So how do we get the cable from the roof to the console

Got it. Took the cover off the rear of the console at the very bottom at floor level. There's a single blue plug there and only one brown wire. Tested it and it was switched. Used that as the trigger for a solid state relay +ve and earth through the 12 VDC accessory. The positive from the 12vdc...

Magic- let me know how that goes. If that works its do-able. I just found that the earths are frustrating - have to pickup the earth for that circuit

I think I've given up on this. Looks like the console light has it's own switch for the lid so that not going to work. Additionally, there are so many different discreet power rails in this thing you need to use the +ve and -ve of any circuit you pick as a trigger. Too risky on the puddle...

Mmm. No luck yet. These fancy pants canbus cars are a pain in the xxxx. I've had enough for today and the wiring is all in but I could not get the relay to fire. Thinking about it afterwards I think I need to tap both sides of the compartment light to make the trigger work. I just earthed it...

FFS - I just realised that there is a switched vanity light thats way easier to tap into- and its in the main console. Comes on with the door open. The video that Christian Molino did't explain this part well but I watched it again and went hunting. Way easier to wire up

Hmm- got nowhere today- cannot for the life of me trace that puddle violet wire to the plugs in the door. The puddle light wires are so short in the door that I can't just do a continuity test and I don't want to break them so I went hunting in the attached plugs and the blue plug not pictured...

ahh on studying the diagram more it appears the front doors share the same trigger. we'll see this weekend

Mmm. Good point re puddles and door opening. Looking at the circuit diagram only the door open would have it's light on. That's a pita as it means I'd have to tap both sides or at least the front doors. Maybe I'll just do the drivers door. There is a local supplier for positaps- Posi Wire...

OK more- just popped out the puddle light on one side- very skinny wires and we don't want to risk damaging these as it will screw up the windows. I have the circuit diagram now and it appears that X033 pin 9 has the power in for these lights. I'm assuming this is one of the large plugs in the...

Thanks. Yep I'm going to stick with the puddle light. I suspect the dimming on the dome light is done by a dimmer on the earth to that light- most common way of doing it. That would screw with our mod. I'm going to use a brand new jaycar horn relay as the spec for the mechanical electrical life...

hissing relay-15.5 vdc on the control side? That will fry a 12 volt relay. sounds like you have a later model 3 with the lithium iron battery rather than the 12v lead acid?

Hey thats great feedback. I was also going to use a horn relay but after hearing your results I'll make sure its a quality unit. The one I've picked is supposed to last 10million activations. Lets face it- how often do you use the horn so most will be low-standard units. The are not designed to...

Ahhh. Sounds like we need to add a diode to the trigger circuit? So add a diode between the wire going to 85 in the relay. The band on the diode should be on pin 85 side. That will stop current going back to the source

I've decided not to risk it and I'll use a relay and draw the main power for the footwell lights from the 12vdc aux. I'll just use the puddle light source as the relay trigger

Yep thats ok for what I want but I am a little nervous that the extra power drain might affect the windows?

I have a may 2020 SR+ and my puddle lights stay on when I open the door. So in my case would it make sense to pick up the wires for the puddle lights in the A-pillar harness on each side and simply positap the footwell lights into these? I can't see that the extra current would trigger the...

Nope they won't do it. You'll need an audio installer.

Yep I have the breakout box. I would think the f kit does but maybe not seeing it has the sub and dsp

I used his idea of the amp but not his harness as he didn't ship os. So I'm just using the alpine to drive the sub with my own wiring to break into the front woofers. Then a bog standard hansshow harness to activate the front speakers

Can't be that as I have the hansshow harness fitted as I said but not their dsp or sub. My chimes are no louder than before I fitted it

I'm curious why the chimes are loud. I have the hansshow harness fitted but fitted the OEM sub and an alpine amp like Todd. I don't have lots chimes so I'm guessing it's too do with the dsp

I've had no issues using Todd's method of the alpine amp plus the hansshow harness. Connected to the penthouse and coming up to a year

Hey @badiban - did you have trouble getting the big plug it of the computer when you swapped cables for the F kit? Got someone struggling here- is there a secret?

Interesting how they mount those rear speakers. I know why now because removing that rear shelf to add the originals back in is so much work for very little return. Gotta say their kit is looking much better now

But I'd be looking at putting in better speakers. The OEM are very ordinary 4" mid-range and add little to the sound for front seat passengers. It's a marginal improvement for the rear passengers. Focal make a great 4"

Yes I got OEMs and soldered without issues

yep sub only here - tonyholdgate.wordpress.com. I did end up adding the harness afterwards but to be honest sub is enough

I detailed how I added a sub here- tonyholdgate.wordpress.com. In australia we can order the OEM sub for $330 AUD- about $250 USD so if you can get one of those its a lot less hassle fitting it. The woofer wiring up front is the same for LHD and RHD so you should be able to use my guide. As the...

only one phone is connected at a time so not possible

That's exactly what I found. A sub is all that's really needed to round off the Sr+ sound

Not at all. It may affect the back seat passengers but certainly not front seat passengers. There's already a set in the doors and the rear parcel speakers are 4" mid-range so no real impact. I actually hooked up a couple of rears bought with the sub and sat them in position to test. I could...

I've done just that. I put the OEM sub in first then activated the front 4 speakers as I have no rears. Sounds so much better

So Guys- a fellow Aussie has successfully ordered a new OEM sub woofer through Tesla. At $330 AUD (250usd) and adding an alpine amp its still way cheaper than hansshow. However thats no dsp or any of the other goodies but still another solution

Like badiban said teslaoffer is your current best bet. I added a sub too- see tonyholdgate.wordpress.com for details of how I did it- not difficult. You can buy the oem Sub from tesla here in Oz so I'd imagine thats the same everywhere

As I read it the Hansshow crossover box which has 4 x 470uf capacitors in series with the tweeters it enables will effectively double the impedance of the speakers at low HZ - see Understanding and Designing Passive and Active Crossovers I think (and I might be wrong) that this offers a form...

Fitted the DIY harness today in 30 minutes. Great improvement but I'd already retrofitted the OEM sub so this was a small improvement but sounds great. I still need to retrofit the rear deck speakers

I need to make a harness for the rear speakers. I can knock up something with a different plug but it would be great if I could track down the pins used in the existing plug then just add the missing connections. Anyone got any leads?

Thanks for the video. I'm about to attempt the rear deck removal to refit the missing speakers in my May 2020 build car following your video. Did you have many dramas getting it back in again? I saw your mention re the clips in the video. I also saw someone else having issue lining up the rear...

I fitted an OEM sub some time back using the alpine KTX-44u amp and picked up the feed from the right rear door woofer. It made a huge difference- install details here (excuse the ordering of the doco- WIP ) tonyholdgate.wordpress.com. You could use any sub and the alpine amp is happy driving...

Nope because Tesla knows from your login you are from Oz. In the end I paid more through eBay in the US and then sent it to Shopmate. Got it today - took a month

Yeh I identified that it's when my wife's phone gets under 10% charge that the app shuts down along with all the others. She does this regularly overnight as she listens to audio as a sleep assist. Fixed this with airpods pro so she can leave the phone on charge A key fob gets here Monday...

So I've tried 1. local- not available 2. Tesla US via shopmate - Tesla cancelled the order due to "policy" 3. Via eBay - nobody ships internationally so I can't even contact them I need this as my wife's stupid iPhone continuously closes the Tesla app in the background even with location always...

2020.20.12

Yep that was me. Build is good with a tiny trim issue on the dash but consistent panel gaps and no sign of factory adjustments after manufacturing. Came with 84% charge