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I suspect I have the same problem. Unfortunately I’m two hours from the nearest service center. Did you get an idea if it’s dangerous, or just a nuisance? I can live with the noise. It also goes away when it’s warmer

I'm in Wilmington but this was the first and only time I've worked on car audio... it has worked out great but I'm probably not the one you want installing yours... before I did it myself I did find an installer in Wilmington that had experience with Teslas, so I'm sure the Raleigh area will...

Thanks yeah; I was wondering if phase conflict could have been contributing to your issue. This is one of the reasons that I did not keep my stock sub connected. As you mention, I doubt it's adding much.

@UCIBtheG I encourage you to read Travis Llado’s extensive review of the M3 sound system at Tesla Model 3 Stereo - Part 2: Audio Testing He goes into great detail with an oscilloscope that shows that there is a signal down to 20 Hz, but you just can’t hear it with the stock subwoofer. I agree...

Did you keep the stock sub connected?

Not really. I would play with the bracket and/or make sure you cut away some of the trunk trim to accommodate the entire sub cabinet

I would go all the way through step 13/page 16 to truly power everything down. Make sure the doors and windows stay open so you don’t get locked out.

Here’s a diagram of the model three premium speaker set up https://teslatap.com/articles/audio-systems-for-the-model-3/

A-pillar speakers are only active with “High” surround setting

I would try unplugging the stock sub harness just to try it that way, eliminating any possible phase issues

Interesting, did you leave the stock sub connected? Sounds like a phase issue to me

Like I said as long as they follow the proper shutdown procedure for the Tesla then it’s the same as any. pages 1-17 here https://34c9c8a1-7edd-4e5b-8d85-78fc1628321b.filesusr.com/ugd/d26784_23a10dd8bd324d1bb3b0537bf065ea86.pdf?index=true

I did it with zero experience so I’m sure a shop would have no problems as long as they follow the proper shutdown/disconnect sequence prior (linked earlier in this thread)

For sure, was just detailing the lazy man’s method lol

Glad to hear!

As stated above, the important thing is to give the amp as much power as you can without clipping. That way you don’t starve it. The stock amplifier does not have an LED, so I did that by ear. As far as the other settings, I waited to put the trunk wall liner back together until I was sure I was...

Sent you a PM

Great. You feel the bass presence, and that low bass is no longer nonexistent. Plus you can tune it to your liking.

You can see a photo of the T-taps I used on page 2. For most wires I used blue taps (14-16 AWG) and for the power/ground I used yellow taps since they were a bit bigger (12 AWG). I admit I didn’t measure the wires beforehand but everything worked well with those selections.

Looks good, that amp is huge! I hope you don’t run into the can’t maintain power issue. It’s a pain.

Yeah I mean the wavelength of low bass is going to be a little different but I agree it wouldn’t seem to make a difference in this case. Try it both ways I guess; as you said.

I believe it is because the subs are on the opposite sides of the car so the sound waves would cancel each other out? I guess it would depend on the wavelengths and actual distance between the two

Wanted to post this to settle the ‘keep the stock sub connected or not’ debate

Yeah I had to loosen that nut to rotate my mounting bracket into position too

I had issues with the jack nut as well. In hindsight, they make Jack nut inserters on Amazon for not much, I would probably get one of those so you don’t get it stuck and spinning like you and I had. Eventually I was able to grasp the sides with needle nose pliers and with a big screwdriver...

You DEFINITELY want to disconnect the 12V battery before you go messing with the penthouse!!

The kit does not come with taps

You can try, but once the seat is back in, there’s really not much extra space there. Plus if you want to adjust the LOC, it’s a lot easier to pop off a carpet clip or two than to take the seat molding apart again... I’d advise to do it as they did.

See my photos and post earlier in the thread. The amp is so light I just attached it to the body with adhesive Velcro strips (where the small foam block was). The LOC I just tucked in that right well near the stock amp on top of the miles of extra RCA cable for cushioning, and I doubt it’s...

It’s more powerful and is audible at lower frequencies. You can feel it move the air. Lastly, unlike the stock sub, you can tune this one to your liking (power/EQ/crossover)

Feel free to tag me if people have any questions about the install, otherwise I don’t check this thread often

No error messages here with the NVX, had it running for about a month. They claim their amp typically uses much less than 500W in practice.

Posi taps or T taps are def the way to go. I did have to purchase a quality crimper.

I had no prior experience but I watched a couple generic car amp install videos on YouTube, and a video on the post taps, and had no problems. It’s really just stick this wire in here etc. I’d say watch some vids and see if you think it’s something you can handle

I have the crossover set to the highest (since I figure this sub will be better than the stock woofers) and everything else set to middle (amp power, eq boost, etc) and it sounds good to me. It sounded bad before I upped the amp power to mid (I think I was starving the sub)

Install guide is here https://nvx.com/media/amasty/amfile/attach/BvHvgTn8XYpZeVYpenanf0sQ88k2vitE.pdf And the wiring diagram is at the bottom of this page BE-TM3-VSW10S2 | Tesla Model 3 Aftermarket Subwoofer and Box Upgrade lol I feel like NVX should be paying me a salary

interesting. Maybe that is the case. I received almost immediate reply emails whenever I had a question. It was [email protected]

There’s no modification to be done if you don’t want the stock sub running. You just unclip the harness going to that sub

Their wiring diagram is on the product page. No isolator or resistor. I agree with @tlr1000 that it’s probably due to the low power consumption of their setup. But yeah they’re pretty knowledgeable so pls ask them and post back here their reply.

I was saying for a comparable setup to the NVX. Not an all-in-one.

I believe they address the non-premium stereo in the NVX YouTube video and say you just need to run the wire up to the front. Check it out.

I hated that too. Travis’ extensive M3 stereo writeup confirms the stock premium stereo has no significant low bass. Cant say I notice that sound stage problem anymore, after the install. Tesla Model 3 Stereo - Part 2: Audio Testing

yeah I’d be really careful about too much power draw. There are several posts on the other M3 subwoofer thread about getting the Cannot Maintain Vehicle Power error. I’ve had this error when they were working out the kinks in the Ohmmu lithium battery and it sucks. I found it reassuring that...

I had actually purchased an entire kit to install a Rockford-Fosgate sub and amp but eventually decided to return it and get the NVX. The RF setup, after enclosure etc set me back about $500. So the NVX ended up being about $220 more for the custom molded enclosure that fits in the well. This...

So far so good over here...

I never tried it. Do you really expect it to make a significant improvement? It will be easy to do, just would have to re-plug the connector

I actually unplugged the factory sub. There was a connector that went straight into it that I disconnected. I didn’t want to worry about phase issues and felt that any less strain on the 12 V power supply might help. I didn’t feel like I needed the power of two subwoofers after adding the new...

Alright. So I received the kit a couple of weeks ago and got the chance to install it last weekend. PROS: - You finally have that bass you've wanted in your M3. Not only do you have a bigger sub and a more powerful amp, you now have the ability to fine tune the crossover/EQ/etc so that the...

@tlr1000 just got around to doing the install. Full report to follow.

Yes I was going to leave the factory sub intact and tap the wires, so it’s reversible if that were necessary for any reason. You might’ve seen that they responded to the YouTube comment about the manual charging release. It does block it. They said you could keep a 10mm socket in the trunk...