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I was very lucky. My score was at 98 last week, tried to bring it up to 99 on Saturday before 10.3, but it actually dropped to 97 due to an FCW caused by a car in the opposite direction crossing the median and passing a parked truck, so I missed 10.3. Then I learned the tricks of opt-out/opt-in...

I uploaded mine toward the beginning of the thread. Go to the first page of the thread and look for mine (which is the same as my profile picture but higher resolution).

MOSFET is metal–oxide–semiconductor field-effect transistor, MOSFET-LC is an oscillator circuit to generate sine wave, so I guess this part is the circuit to generate the AC current for the rear motor that went bad. ASY could be either "Assembly" or "Asymmetric". "GLOBAL" is for global part...

I'm also in Boston area. Try every morning at around 7-8 am to see if any new openings pop up in the Tesla app. That's what I did and I was able to move up my schedule to within a week instead of 3-4 weeks out. I tried twice and it worked both times.

I didn't try to put it under the trunk floor. The spare tire was much bigger than I imagined, and it will be much bigger than whatever you are imagining. Remember that the modern spare is much bigger than typical spare. Unless you use a more traditional spare tire (not sure if you can get one...

It wont fit. The opening might be wide enough, but not deep enough (front-back), because of the divider in the middle. I didn't remove the floor to see, but when I put the spare in my trunk, it occupied the whole 1st (deep) compartment and went over and partially occupied the 2nd (shallow)...

In that case I'd opt for not replacing the front windows. I want to be able to break the side windows in case of emergency. In fact, I carry the window break tool in my car so that I can break the window if my car fall into water, etc.

Got a confirmation from SC today. "Compared to similar vehicle and found that there are no clips or bolts in that the section of the wheel arch liner" Also talked to a guy at SC. According to him, it is normal for early models to have multiple holes that end up not being used.

Not really. What Tesla should do is continuous recording/saving while driving, but when parked, only save when there's any activity (Sentry event). That's what most of the dash cams are doing. If you drive 2 hrs per day, 7 days a week, that's 13.4 GB per day, 93.8 GB per week. It will take...

That explains why... my front emblem is slightly tilted and I was wondering how that could happen with the holes for alignment.

Thank you for the good summary - that's exactly what I was trying to say, maybe I wasn't very clear explaining it.

I guess it's based on the GPS/LTE/Wi-Fi location (like iPhone, it might use a combination of all 3 for an accurate location) but must have a tolerance due to the noise, with a radius of a few lots? For your home location, I think it uses the address (because that's what you enter in the...

You mean 60C, not 60A breaker/circuit, right? Just to confirm I didn't confuse anyone. If the right wire is used according to the code, 60A is fine. For 60C, right, if you use gauge 6 wire. I guess if you go to lower gauge, 60C might be okay.

No to mention that it is also not compliant with the code, even at 60C (55A max at 60C). I agree the battery life thing is probably not a factor, especially compared to SC.

No, I have to disagree with that. This is straight from the Tesla gen 3 WC manual (page 5). If installing for maximum power, use minimum 6 AWG, 90° C-rated copper wire for conductors. NOTE: Upsize conductors if necessary. Rocky might be right in that the copper conductor might not be the...

Yes, it sticks out even with the Tesla's own paint touch-up kit. The original paint is much brighter and shiny than the touch-up paint which is closer to light gray, not white. That might be due to the lack of the final glassy coat layer. It would have been nicer if Tesla offer the same...

Yeah, that's probably what I should do. I'm just lame and have been trying to find pre-existing features (stain/crack on the floor, etc) to align but couldn't find one yet.

It's not safe and the extra charging speed is not worth. What would the insurance company say in case of fire?

Or maybe the USB-C wire behind the panel is not properly connected?

That's probably your USB drive problem, not the USB port problem. I'm using 2 TB LaCie SSD (cheaper than Samsung) on USB-C for dashcam and 128 GB Patriot USB stick on USB-A for music. Both are formatted as exFAT and work well so far. I occasionally lose connection to the SSD (dashcam), in...

Yes, depth is easy. What I struggle is to align the car in the right angle to the garage door so that it's parallel to the side wall and also in the middle/center of the garage opening (same distance to the both sides of the garage door).

Good decision. I installed a gen 3 WC myself and did the same thing after some research. 6/2 (or 6/3) NM-B is much easier to install, the wire is cheaper, and 50A circuit (40A charging) is plenty and better for the battery for long term. No need to worry about higher current/heat, etc.

I agree it is a hassle and needs more efforts than pulling in and backing out. I'm trying to find a cheat sheet (find some objects on the back-up screen to align) but still most of the time I find the car not in the middle and either have to do it again or just settle with the current biased...

I'm backing into the garage for charging (ice cars cannot do this due to the fume so this is an added benefit of EV - loading the trunk inside the house is very convenient) and I have high ceiling garage so I don't need it (max opening position still doesn't hit the ceiling), but I think it's a...

Same here, I thought I already had the cover because I wasn't bothered by the noise. Found today that I didn't have the cover, must have missed it by a few days because I got mine delivered on 5/30, probably manufactured on 5/25, and I saw someone mentioning that it started being installed in...

After you checked your "exclude home" box, have you driven your S out of your house and come back? If your car stayed at home all the time, just checking the box doesn't change anything. It goes into effect after your first out of house travel, upon your return back to home.

Yes, I did that. Haven't had a chance to test whether it works or not, though...

RWD is not good for snow, and MA gets lots of them.

Last two digits of VIN doesn't mean anything...

Oops, sorry, you were not talking about NM cable. My bad.

I agree with you for the most part, but I think the max allowed is 55A breaker. I went with 50A breaker for 40A charging.

Yes, I used 75' 6/2 for 50A breaker, about $100 from Home Depot. Southwire 75 ft. 6/2 Stranded Romex SIMpull CU NM-B W/G Wire-28894424 - The Home Depot

Mine is similar. Maybe slightly narrower gap but still there is a gap, on both side. Maybe that's how it's designed? My guess is that the space under the gap is not inside cabin but the traditional "under the hood" area that are supposed to be exposed? But I'm still very interested in what...

Yeah, this is considered as free roadside assistance. "Coming out to help" portion is free, "the actual service" is subject to warranty and should charge the same as when you would bring your car to the SC. If it's covered under the warranty, it's free, if not, you have to pay, but at least...

Your main text is hard to read, so I'll answer based on your thread title only. I had a similar but not exactly the same problem. My switches were reversed, lowering the opposite site seats compared to what the figure on the switch indicated. But SC claimed that they couldn't reproduce the...

Did you put your back seats at the most upright position or reclined? I hear squeaks and rattles from back seats only when they are reclined (either half-way or all the way) but not when they are upright, and I'm wondering if that's the same for others.

Thanks! I had the same problem and solved it by following your instruction!

On my second thought, it could be due to the angle of the hatch window. At an angle, you have thicker glass and tinting film, thus the view will be much darker. Yes, I think that's the ultimate explanation. Sorry for multiple posts - ideas are keeping coming in sporadically.

BTW, my guess is that it is due to the tinting of the hatch window. Although my previous car was also a small SUV, it seems like MY's hatch window tinting is stronger.

Yes, it is darker than my previous car. I got used to it after a few weeks.

Plus I think you are not allowed to pass using exit lane (ramp). At that point, for those who are not exiting, it effectively became single-lane and no passing is allowed.

For the rattle, I had a similar problem with squeaking/rattling noise coming from the back seat area. Later I found that the noise only happens when the seat is in the more reclined positions (both medium- and full-recline). When I put the back seats to most upright position, the noise...

Hmm, that's interesting... Thanks for the update and looking forward to hearing the final result!

Yeah, I hope that's the case and the initial poll is indicating that as well.

4 weeks and (only) 400 miles. Worked every time. Also, I can release/disconnect the charging cable without first unlocking the car. Tesla charger gen 3.

Okay, so it is likely they were missing intentionally. Please let us know what SC says about it. Thanks!

It's on the bottom of the body so I couldn't see directly with my eyes. Based on the picture I agree there seems to be some adhesive. Hard to tell about the thread. My guess is that Tesla decided during development that single bolt with adhesive was enough, so got rid of the additional bolt...

Sorry for the image size/resolution.

Can anyone check your MY and let me know if this is normal? I found two holes under the body right behind the front tire wells, seems like holes for bolts (see pictures below). I'm wondering whether Tesla decided to remove them during development for cost/weight reduction, or missed putting...

I was wrong - I check the recent history and it was even better, 180-190. Again, all local, below 45 mph. My round trip commute is 32 miles, so the recent 30-mile data should be quite accurate.