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And, don't open the Tesla app. Doing so will wake up the car from sleep, further increasing vampire drain.

The DM is RWD until more power is called for or traction to the rear is limited. I’m sure there are other logics. But my point is, the rears take the brunt of the torque and wear down faster in either configuration.

Maybe I’m not reading this right. But the car CD tested had a rated range of 310 miles and they got 190 miles. Therefore, that is a calculated 38.7% reduction.

Don’t spend $12k on beta software. Drive the car, it’s way more fun.

Judging by the rocks the vehicle landed on, I can’t believe there was no battery damage. Was this confirmed? The way to total a Tesla is to damage the battery pack. /s Adds a cool $25K right away.

Put in a service ticket. Tesla can at least remote diagnose it to start

I have a 2022 M3, and under high load I can slightly feel the vibration from the compressor at first start up, once the cabin cools a bit, I no longer feel it. Is this what you are experiencing? I believe it is normal.

Hmm...so the vehicle is somehow thermally limited and cannot charge 48 amps at 240v...that's not even 12kW...it is nothing compared to DC charging or how much power the motors generate with regen braking (up to 70 kW). I'm not convinced this is a thermal issue on the car side. Is your regen...

I will also add a nod to checking your coverage. Dropping my comprehensive coverage deductible from 500 to 100 was some comical amount that it was a no brainer.

A surge protector has nothing to do with what is going on here. The breaker servicing that outlet is over drawing and tripping when the car is plugged in. Or the breaker is bad. What size is the breaker, 15 or 20 amp? Will say on the breaker. It is possible there is another load on that...

If you don’t mind, can you share which ones you got and how you like them? I like the covers but the amount of options are overwhelming.

This is also poor practice on the previous owner. By logging into your Tesla account they could have de-registered the vehicle within a matter of minutes.

It is not. Third party is your only option.

I got one from tparts. Fairly descent and the fit was the best of the cheaper spoilers. It’s largely a cosmetic piece. Don’t pay much attention to the marketing on aero claims and efficiency.

Congrats! The SR has a max 7.7kW AC charging limit and a 175kW for DC charging. Keep in mind the DC charging speed will vary depending on the vehicles state of charge and the 175kW is peak. Regardless of the stations output, these are the SR's maximums and it is the car that tells the...

do you have cabin overheat protection on by chance? How long a timeframe are you referencing here?

I thought shifting to N on an ICE car actually consumed more fuel because instead of the momentum from the wheels turning the engine, the fuel pump is engaged to idle the engine. When in gear and coasting an ICE vehicle will typically not send fuel to the engine.

I have noticed too and it seems to be the car “waking up”. I use pin to drive and after entering my pin I wait 1-2 seconds. Then it’s all set with a single pull down to drive.

I agree, get a Y over the Prius. For a trip of 225 miles the SR Y cannot make this trip without stopping. You will need a LR Y, and even then you will cut it very very close.

I believe they have. But the epa does not factor in hvac which has a greater impact on EVs. The epa has a calculator you can play with since EVs rely on a degree of regen which you don’t get on a highway drive.

Any USB A 2.0 drive will work. Keep in mind the interface only supports usb 2.0 speeds. So buying a hyper fast ssd does you nothing within the car. Just buy something within reason.

Does this mean the M3LR doesn’t qualify? I’m curious why it doesn’t but the perf does.

Yea after 70mph is just about when the power tapers off the model 3. I have the M3 LR and at 70mph the LR and P are identical in output and I wouldn't say the car feels flat, but there isn't as much power available when the motor is spinning at that speed. I don't know much about the model S...

These stories reaffirm to me not to use autopilot on the Highway. I don’t want to be punted like a football when the car decides to phantom brake. Tesla should issue a toggle for dumb cruise control.

Long term this is the better answer. Will you be ordering another M3?

I doubt this is totaled. Your battery pack likely experienced no damage due to the height of the impact.

As others mentioned, without the 12v the car will not engage the high voltage contactors = the main pack will never charge. Get a new 51R battery or see if you can top off the current one. Then try again. You will hear 2 nominal clicks as the contactors engage the high voltage battery.

Considering the car can regen well over 50kW during a drive, you are all good. Very interesting though.

The best part of owning an EV is charging in a garage, so I would say you will be missing out on the biggest benefit of ownership. That being said, I recognize this isn't possible for everyone. Relying on public chargers is fine, but always fast DC charging is not ideal for the battery. You...

The auto function needs a sensitivity input. My wife’s Volvo had this and it worked great. Mine will wipe like there is a hurricane out when it’s misting. Auto wipers = utterly useless

I thought heat for supercharging came from running the motors inefficiently. Does the PTC supplement in non heat pump cars?

Try powering the car off and back on? https://www.tesla.com/ownersmanual/model3/en_us/GUID-E75DB1EC-A705-4784-9983-DE677D1BF7C1.html

Isn’t buying the plaid variant essentially that? I mean the model S is THE fastest production car. I’m inclined to agree the logic by the insurance company is flawed on the acceleration boost.

how did they even find out, did you notify them?

Same on my 22 M3 LR

Your car is also equipped with the heat pump. Meaning when the cabin heater is turned on, it will scavenge heat from the drivetrain/battery pack. This has the net effect of heating the cabin more efficiently at the expense of warming up the batteries with waste heat. Blending the friction...

If memory serves me correct, the dual motor 3/Y can pull up to 14kW when cabin heating and battery conditioning. This is greater than the supply at 48 amp, 11.5kW. So in this case, you will see the car lose SOC until the call for heat is satisfied and energy is diverted to the battery.

I use the Samsung SD endurance 128gb card. It’s designed for high write cycle counts. They sell larger capacities too.

All windows being down by 2 inches is also what the vent feature on the app does, could that have been triggered? It could be that your windows need calibration. My 2020 M3LR had the issue where one of the rear windows would roll down randomly.

Agreed! It’s the reason why Tesla is working on autopilot 4.0 hardware including 5mp cameras. https://driveteslacanada.ca/news/tesla-hardware-4-5-megapixel-camera-production-shipments-started/

That would get to my OCD, so I would get it repaired. As others noted, you are looking at getting the hole filled and your entire hood re-painted.

I once had a brain fart with my Tesla where I needed to slow down further when getting ready to park and pressed the accelerator to slow down. Realized it quick and had the time to switch pedals. Never happened in my previous vehicles. This was about 2 yrs ago now.

Yes there is a loss in range as a result of the larger wheels. I can’t attest to the exact % but larger wheels are heavier and require a bit more energy to turn.

Why do some people think owning a personal EV is the environmental holy grail? I get we are on a Tesla forum, but if you are so concerned with your carbon footprint, take public transport and don’t buy an EV. That’s greener than this rant.

I would def up the pressure. I run 45 psi cold on my 22 LR. I only have 6000 miles but lifetime avg is 225 wh/mile. I’m mostly on expressways w 55mph. Your 360 wh/mile is quite high. Were you fighting a headwind? Elevation change? Those 20s are like boat anchors. And your speed is an obvious...

What was your wh per km?

If Tesla is smart they will bump the M3LR down to 54490 and be eligible for the credit. They prefer building that over the SR anyway.

I had a 2020 M3LR and now a 2022 so same comparison as yours. I cannot discern a difference in performance of the AC. Depending on how hot the batteries were, the system will send some coolant to the battery. Perhaps that played a role in your perception lately.

I also keep the caps off. There is practically no range loss in city or occasionally freeway driving. Keep in mind these covers reduce air drag, which at low speeds is negligible.

The model 3 does not qualify for the proposed bill. Sedans are capped at 55k and there are requirements for where the battery components are sources. Aptly absent is China on that list, likely making the SR model 3 ineligible as well.