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We have done them on several cars. It helps improve the ride substantially. We haven't done a video for the Eibach's yet but here is a video we did on the Y with H&R Springs.

You absolutely need an alignment. They can dramatically affect Toe. I see more often than not that installing the bearings pull in the front wheels causing a decrease in Camber and an Increase in Toe out. Source: I am an alignment Tech and have installed dozens of these bearings.

@gearchruncher said it best. Until you are pushing to the limits of traction, track mode is not going to do much for you other than being able to turn up regen. After that, it's all personal preference anyway.

I'll be interested to see what that feels like for you. We tried the H&R lift springs and it was a noticeably harsher ride. Also, the damper length stays the same so you will probably top out the shocks when going over rough terrain. Not a great feeling.

Took the car out to King of the Hammers in Johnson Valley, CA. I was the only Tesla that attended in a sea of Rivians :(. OMG_Rivian was my travel partner. His Rivian is in a few of the photos. Here is the event we went to...

You can get them here. Tein Flex Z Model 3 / Y

Yeah, factory stud length is no problem, but anyone looking at extended studs may have to partially pull the bearing in order to have enough room to slide them in. Depends on the length.

Rear is the basically the same as the front. Slightly less room to work with the various arms in the way. It is easier to replace the bearing than replacing studs, IMO. I had to transfer my ARP studs to a new bearing, that sucked.

-Get an alignment done right after delivery, most of the cars that we've seen right out of the factory have had pretty terrible wheel alignments. You'll save on tires if you make sure to keep up with alignments and tire rotations -Premature Suspension Bushing failure. Start checking them around...

Falken Wildpeak A/T Trail 235/60r18

If you want good steering feel and responsiveness you are going to want a wider wheel. 10.5 is Ideal but the most common size you are going to find is 9.5. Do you have any sort of camber arms installed? a 275 is going to be severely under utilized without additional camber and you will have...

Can you clarify what you want? You listed a 22" wheel but say you are looking at 19" options. I assume you want a 19" wheel for a winter setup.

Model Y is only a little slower than the 3 on Track. You can fit a much wider tire on the Y compared to the 3. Like @fiehlsport said, definitely change out the fluid. Pads too if you can.

Here's a video that shows exactly how to do the Steering angle reset.

Check the shaft nut that fastens the damper to the upper mount. It is common that they come loose on these because they are not a nylok or jam nut.

That's not a Hunter Machine, and I'm not saying string isn't accurate enough. When they calibrate our machine it is calibrated to .005 degrees.

I am saying the specs from manufacturers have a tolerance of .15-.25 degrees typically, the machine is accurate to .005 degrees. And Yes it is a Camera based machine, not laser.

Looks good. I don't remember having to remove the side trim. I think you just need a ratcheting wrench to get under there. And for anyone viewing this thread wanting to get the Quickfit E90 Harness, id recommends the Non-Pro version if using with the OEM seat. The pro version brings the...

Neither, it goes to the bolt that is retaining the seat belt. Also, these buckles work great for retaining a full set of tires in the back with a strap.

I was present during the calibration process. They calibrate to .005 degrees, but most specs are in increments of .01 degrees with an accuracy of + or - .15 degrees.

Adjustable pliers are your friend. Makes it easy. https://a.co/d/0vb1pmx

This is half true. Yes, most big alignment shops only care about getting in the green, but laser alignment machines are incredibly precise. It's the user of the machine that doesn't care about getting precise alignment settings. String is fine, but a Laser alignment machine is going to give you...

The Rotor shield is the only thing I can think of that might hang it up a bit. Just have to be careful while removing it.

I mentioned this earlier, but the entire upright does not need to be removed to accomplish this. Remove Axle Nut x1 Remove Hub Retaining bolts x3 Remove Brake Line Remove Brake Caliper Bolts x2 With all that unbolted the entire Hub with brake rotor and caliper should all come off together...

AutoRnd / Zevcentric in Fremont is specialized in Tesla Suspension, brakes, and Alignments. I do all my work there. https://zevcentric.com/

Oh and the reason they are stuck is not because of the wrong bore size but the fact that the Performance has an additional lip at the base of the bore. Most wheels marketed towards tesla's will have these milled steps in the hub but apparently yours do not.

@martyb126 Here's something you could do if they will not come off. This would suck but it could be done. You should be able to remove the 3 bolts that hold the wheel bearing in the upright and keep your puller attached the way it is. You'll also have to pull the brake rotor and caliper along...

They also work with the LR.

Got into the 54's!! Took first in class and 2nd overall at the SCCA event at BRP last weekend. https://timetrials.scca.com/articles/2016745-weekend-wrap-up-22-ttnt-buttonwillow Current Build List: MPP Super Sport Coilovers MPP Front & Rear Swaybars MPP LCA & Compression Rod Bearings MPP...

We normally don't set them more than 12-14 clicks open on a street car.

I can confirm that the quick fit will fit both sides. If you are going as far as buying a racing seat you might as well build a harness bar also and do a proper 6 point. There some universal harness bars out there that might fit, I am planning on building my own.

There's got to be another reason imo, all of their other parts are very reasonably priced.

DM me and I may be able to help you find what you are looking for.

Making wheels in all the various hub sizes isn't cheap, there is nothing wrong with using a wheel with hub rings or without them. Just need to pay attention when installing the wheels.

After 5,000 miles at -3.5ish camber & 0 toe my 265 ps4s's had noticeable camber wear. My best guess is that I would have been in the cords with another 7500 miles. Hope that helps.

If you changed the height you are going to need to do another alignment. Toe and Camber will change.

You are running a much more narrow tire than most others that are tracking seriously so you're probably going to need significantly more camber than someone running 275+ tires. Are you trying to stay in a certain class with the 255? I am at -3.7F -3.2R on 275 Sur4g's If you are happy with you...

I'd suggest a 10.5 wide wheel, that way you have a path for a wider tire in the future if you choose. Aspira AF10's are a good choice, that's what I am running. Mpp ran them on their Spain can aswell. Aspira Auto Design MPP Car: MPP Eurotrip to Spain, Plaid Progress - Mountain Pass Performance...

As long as the jack is free to roll as the car shifts it should be okay. At the track we normally lift from the rear jackpoint because you can get both front and rear tires off the ground easier from there. So no need to jack up 4 times, just twice. And yeah no lifting pucks are used, my car...

I completely agree, just don't want to be responsible for someones death by recommending a 2x4 when/if that .01% happens. No one should be entrusting their life to a couple of dudes on the internet anyway lol. #useatyourownrisk #payaprofessionalifyouhavetoask

"This is the way" I would actually advise to use a 4x4 just for added strength, but you'll have to trim it a bit to make it fit

not sure, i've never used a jackstand on a tesla. If I plan on getting under the car I put a 2x4 in the jack to prevent it from falling.

Most all of us at the track use this jack, gotta love the strange looks when I am swaping to my track tires at the charger. Looks like a pit stop lol

Looks like you have a very good starting point. I'd say is maybe not install the sway bar yet. See how it feels first. As far as the cooler goes I wouldn't worry too much about that, but if you do want to maximize power on the track you need a way to monitor battery and motor temps. Easiest way...

That's because its an estimation that Tesla uses to guess the temps. Its pretty useless once you've changed to an aftermarket setup. If you want real data you're going to have to run an external logger with sensors.

If you still street drive your car I think you'll be much happier on the MPP Sports, but your concern originally was tire wear and being fast. The camber arms are the better place to spend your money if the choice is between arms or coilovers.

You'll know when you need to upgrade your brake system when your rotor temp exceeds the temperature range of your pads, which is when you feel "fading". Even the MPP rotors are not enough for certain tracks/conditions since they don't increase the thermal mass much. If you are like me and only...

I'm sure if you contact one of these spacer companies they can either make what you want or point you in the right direction.

Supply is still a very big issue, and Titan7 makes wheels for many brands. Hard to make wheels without Aluminum blanks.

Amazon, I'm using a simple 5mm spacer. Looks like not available anymore but as long as you have extended studs something like this will work fine. Try and find a solid one like this not those kind with holes all over them. You want as much surface area contact as possible. The other option is...