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Disappointing indeed. Do you know which part failed?

perfect @markwj, very nice of you to offer this.

I don't get it, are you trying to argue that the cable Tesla uses itself, isn't good enough? I don't mind at all that people want to spend more then necessary, but there is no objective reason to do so for this cable.

If so, I would most def get the Tesla official one, since longer is not needed and also is more likely to give connectivity issues (however not likely in this case.)

It's cheaper at Tesla, part nr 1007780-00-D about 22$ (exact same cable). You can also get the cheaper 1127304-00-B at 8$ which has fakra on both ends, chop it and crimp on an RJ45 yourself.

You can send it to me and I'll fix numerous undisclosed HW issues for you, I promise :D Jokes aside, I would hold off until more info arises on this alleged HW issue. I thought the bug bounty program excluded HW issues?

Yes.

Right before update will work, yes. Factory reset, no.

That is correct, it requires a redeploy to work, and a sw update will fix it.

Yes, it's a common practice at some independent shops. One could argue that the penetration risk of the bolts into the pack in case of a collision is slightly higher, but they only stick our a few mm from the nut.

@fixingstill, according to the manual, but can be cut and entered the opposite direction without dropping the pack.

If you have an android device, you can use the app "Scan my Tesla".

If I haven't made that clear, I'm sorry @sorka. In my opinion, and I would guess quite a few others as well, you really can't compare those two vehicles you are mentioning. (Tesla Model S vs. Prius.) If you have owned a mid or high range relatively modern European (and I would guess recent US)...

Beacuse we all know that Priuses and Model S's wight the same and have the same suspesion design.. o_O

They only come pre-balled to be easier to solder. Balls are actually a disadvantage when using a pinned test-socket. Although both will work fine most of the time.

I guess it depends on the car. Modern cars have much more "sophisticated" suspension with more arms, stabilizers etc. that do wear out on al cars. Just do a quick google search and you'll find the answer.

I believe you need a four wheel alignment after replacing those suspension parts, otherwise you might ruin/wear out your tires quickly. I guess most garages should be able to perform it.

Chademo does the rectifying, (DC fed to the car) so it all depends how it's built. Shouldn't be a problem if taken into account.

The EU version supports isolated terra, in Norway IT is the most common power grid, so maybe you could look at the firmware in the eu/Norway version, og swap the cable of one.

Do you have a link? I've been looking for it, since I also thought it would be much better to use something like that if one should go to the step of desoldering.

Maps are just written once (per version) and music isn't written to flash at all, so that shouldn't matter. The main partition is a read only fs (squashfs) so it is loaded on boot and lives in the RAM.

@jnuyens, yes, quite many cases with dead ICUs due to corrupted flash.

Imo. writing to tmpfs is a much better solution than disabling, logs are often useful. You can even write the logs to persistent memory if you wish on (controlled) reboot, and it would still be far better than canstantly writing to the flash.

I have the plug and pins. I'm in Norway, so will be around 25 USD shipped. This is cost price of parts plus s&h.

I have some old style cables, and parts for the new sumitomo type.

Yes

Here you can get the pins in 100 quantity: Find Electronic Components | Mouser Norway

Cool, do you have your findings somwhere I can take a look, github etc.?

If I had more time, I would try Comma.ai's Panda: panda OBD-II Dongle It's probably the most capable device at that price point. They have some nice software as well for messages debugging.

Once more cars get completely out of warranty, I'm sure it will happen. Given physical access to the HW it's not that hard to obtain root access to a linux system. I just know that I'm not pulling my dash apart before the warranty is out ;) One way to learn more about the system without any of...

Yes, they should stay on the plastic tabs.

Great writeup

Great, thanks for posting the info.

That's an entirely different debate, but personally I wouldn't mind a "good as new" (or even better, in this case with the battery, if it is in fact refurbished.)

Oppgradert performance - hva med biler på vei?

I usually don't believe people make up stuff when they post on the (Norwegian) forums (elbilforum.no), and there are several pictures of new 75 cars with 85 packs, reconditioned.

They are not putting in new 85 packs, but reconditioned ones. And only for a limited number of cars that were in transit when the new performance was released.

I have pre made cables for older and newer type plug in Norway, Europe. PM me for details.

I have cables for old and new type plug available in Europe. PM me for details.

Thanks, I saw that (and quoted) but the discussion following it was not that conclusive. So to gain access to the battery info, I have to connect to pins 18 and 19, correct?

Hi guys. Is there now a validated pin out of the new connector, and what pins to connect to for battery diagnostics?

I believe that the Toyota ones are the same, just move over the gasket. Don't know where to get the metal clips, but maybe Tesla sells them cheaply?

Actually I do: TESLA 1011813-00-A Plastic Clip. This turquoise nylon door trim panel retainer features a 14mm stem length, 13mm top head diameter, and is designed for an 8.5mm hole size. They are the same as these for Toyota, order them from any of the sellers here: Retainer Clips...

Spec: TESLA 1025401-00-A Plastic Clip. This white nylon door trim panel retainer features a 17mm stem length, 16mm top head diameter, and is designed for a 9mm hole size.

Anyone know where to get this type of clip?

How d I edit the FAQ? Or do I not have the privileges?

If you haven't already, I would suggest trying Shoe Goo ( Shoe Goo - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia ) Elastic glue should do much better than hard, non-elastic super glue.

Would be great if you could post your work! :)