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Yeah, most subs are going to probably want anywhere from .5 - 1cf of space. In the trunk well, the bottom it has a slope, so your box can't be too tall. From what I remember you can't really have anything taller than about 10", and in the middle, up to 16" from front to back and side to side is...

I fire mine up due to needing room for excursion. I will say my first box for it wa in the trunk firing back on 1000w and it was a bit louder. This allows me all the trunk space and I’m using an RF TX750 amp and it will still shake the hell out of the car if I want to.

Get yourself a stereo integrity SQL-12 sun and build a .8cf box and put it in the trunk well. Insanely powerful and super clean bass for $300 + box + amp. Note you’ll probably want to run it on more like 1000W but will still pound on 500 in a Y. I have mine in a 3.

Can you actually hear the compression though when driving? I'm guessing not.

I have a 2021 Model 3 SR+ and I’m running a DAmore E1000.1 1000W amp with SI SQL-12 and Helix V Eight DSP Amp no problems off the front battery for over a year. I didn’t really want to do the resistor relay mod, but I am considering putting a LifePo battery in the trunk and running everything...

Yeah if you have an SR+ You really want a DSP. That JBL s a nice budget option. I went a little more nuts with a Helix V8, but it really allows you to fix the incoming and outgoing peaks. Our cars naturally amplify the heck out of 50hz, so it’s not surprising you’d need to make cuts there.

It would be an interesting comparison. I have a DSP though so I can tune time alignment, phase shifts, and anything else so Im sure it’s possible to do better than stock. In fact all of the guys who build SQ comp teslas aren’t running their dash full range, they’re doing midrange and having the...

Man, at this point, I'd just buy a different brand sub to put in the box.. the box is really where all the $$/time is anyways.

Ah, I guess that makes more sense on a stock system. On my SR+, I replaced all of my dash mids with AudioFrog GB25, and used GB10 tweeters on the door sail panels. However, I'm also running them off a Helix V Eight DSP/Amp, so I have the dash speakers crossed over from 250-3000hz, and the...

Yes, the outer dash midranges in an SR+ (at least on my 2021) extend from about 250hz and up. You could put a 2 way in there, but honestly, it's better just to enable the door tweeters as it will widen the front stage a lot. It really helps out the sound.

What amp did you use for your subwoofer?

So a bit of an update.. I really wanted to try out some 8" midbass up front. I got a great deal on a used set of AD W800Neo's. These are a shallow mount 8" midbass. It took some serious work to actually get these in, as their shallow design actually made it more challenging. I ended up...

Nice Helix V12. I went with a V8 in my Model 3. Did you do any of the speakers as well?

I really am curious about the IB setup. How did you seal that MDF plate to the trunk well? Or is it just sitting on there?

I have another thread on here that has a log of details but this is what I'm running now: Audiofrog GB25 dash speakers Audiofrog GB10oe tweeters Stereo Integrity TM65 MKIII midbass woofers in front doors Stereo Integrity SQL-12 subwoofer Helix V-Eight DSP/Amp for front stage Helix M-One Amp for...

I think even the LR does sound better but it still leaves things to be desired. Like you said the drivers are all the same. I’m pretty sure they detuned the DSP on the SR quite a bit. Swapping out my factory drivers for audiofrog GB series and adding a DSP really woke it all up, but it’s not...

If it was me, I'd either use a Kicker KeyLOC line out converter and amp OR their Kicker Key 500.1 amp, since both with restore all the factory roll-of in an SR+. The SR+ rolls off the bass fast under 60Hz on the front speakers.. without something to flatten it back out, you're missing a lot of...

So I've actually done both methods of powering things, but I've pretty much refused to do the resistor/relay due to safety concerns. I don't like having a part that's sitting there always on emitting heat, and if fails causes a fire. Resistors have a tendency to go up in flames.. not a risk I...

Yeah the premium audio you have in your M3P is a lot better sounding that what comes stock in the SR+. The SR+ doesn't have the subwoofer, the tweeters, the imaging speakers, the rear deck speakers or the 2nd amp. It's also highly likely that it's tuned differently too. So far I'm very happy...

I decided to basically update and upgrade my whole system. Helix DSP/amps, AudioFrog midrange and tweeters and Stereo Integrity TM65 MKIII 6.5" front door speakers. It sounds amazing now.

I have the BT HEC card in mine but I need to get it all tuned because the audio sounds way different than from the head unit.

@Lashlee So far I absolutely love the conductor. Makes it easy to do everything I need to do with it vs. the director. I'm running an optical cable today as well so I can have a straight digital connection for the iPhone, and I'll assign a volume color to the conductor for that as well. Nice...

Some more updates! Decided to change things up quite a bit, and did the following: Got rid of the Helix director and mounted a Helix Conductor knob and Amazon Echo auto in an aftermarket center console tray using my own designed 3D printed mount. Conductor is great because you can control up...

@drivesallday Have you seen the new Conductor knob by Helix? I just got one to control my Helix DSP and 3D printed up a mount in an aftermarket cubby tray. It allows you to control your main volume, the optical input volume, sub volume, select different DSP tunes, etc. Pretty sweet!

Here's a picture of the SI SQL-12 installed. Built a quick 15 x 15 x 12.5" box, put some carpet on it. So far it sounds amazing, super clean. Haven't tried to get it super loud yet but I'm sure it will. I figured I'd try the box like this for now until I figure out if I want to stay with...

So some more quick updates: I still need to tune and dial everything in, but so far things sound really good even with just the crossovers only loaded into the Helix V Eight. I also decided I want to give a 12" sub a try, so I have a Stereo Integrity SQL-12 now on hand to play with. I'm going...

Buy a set of 4” infinity reference 4032 or some faital pros and use a 3D printed bracket from ampedgarage.com to install.

On either harness, you'll be tapping the front left/right door woofers as only they have the signal range that carries the low signal. The rears don't have the range, neither do the dash mids. A LOC or other type of processor is ideal to correct the 40hz rolloff that the factory stereo has...

I'm actually not doing remote turn on since my Helix DSP does line level source detection, it works perfectly. I probably would have done remote turn on if I had gone with the penthouse for power using the resistor/relay modifications. However, I didn't like a lot of things (mainly safety/fire...

Tonight’s adventure is soundproofing the passenger side door. I took about 4 sq feet of dynamat extreme and dampened the inside of the door down on all thinner outer door pieces. I also struck butyl rope between the crash bars and the door skin. I also applied dynamat to the back of the...

And here's getting the AudioFrog GS60 door woofers all ready to install:

Personally, if I was doing things on the inexpensive without the DSP and speaker upgrades.. I'd do what you did for start. I'd then add a subwoofer in the trunk using an AudioControl 300.1 amp since it has a line-out converter and bass restoration built in to fix the factory bass roll-off...

You can also follow my build here: https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/my-model-3-audio-sq-build-log-helix-audiofrog-hat.218999/ I'm getting close to having everything installed, and then will have it professionally tuned afterwards. Mines more on the expensive spectrum with close to $3000...

Here's some video talking about the midrange install too:

The speedwire is a great tip. I’m almost done with with full audio upgrade and I use 3 runs of 9 conductor speedwire and one 4 conductor wire with it. That’s for getting the 12 wires you need from the ICE to DSP and then the 16 you need back out for all the speakers. I also run a hacked up TO...

Another quick update. Got the Audiofrog GS25 midranges installed. Just did left and right since I’m not going to tuna. Center channel. You can see I’ve mounted them on 3D printed PETG mounts using the ones that Travis Llado designed. The connectors used are form Amped garage and were a perfect...

I sold my 2014 BRZ 6 speed manual for a Model 3 SR+. I absolutely love it. Yeah it’s not quite as go-kart-like but it handles extremely well and the torque/power is just so great. I plan on autocrossing my model 3 like I did the BRZ. At this point I really don’t miss the BRZ. Even though we have...

Finally got my Knuconceptz 4ga wire in today. I ran it from the battery all the way to the back into my quick disconnect. Powered the car up and everything works perfect! No error messages and the subwoofer amp and Helix DSP are both running well. So far so good! Now I need to tidy up the...

Tonight is tweeter night! I change my mind daily on what I want to do. Originally I was going to go with Audiofrog GS10 tweeters to match my GS components. Then I decided not to spend the bucks and give the Dayton AN25's a shot since you can get 3D Printed Mounts that snap right in for them...

I hacked up the Teslaoffer harness and fed the front mids, front doors, and rear doors into a Helix V Eight DSP. I'm powering the Front Mids, Doors, Front Tweeters, and Rear Doors with the DSP now, and using the line outputs to run a seperate sub amp (work in progress). The Helix DSP is...

well you don’t have to go to the battery if you have the right amps OR you do the relay and resistor mod. I really didn’t want the resistor mod as it’s a parasitic draw and a fire hazard.

So it’s not the turn on or delay that’s the issue. It’s the current inrush to the capacitors in the amp. When the penthouse sees that large spike it’s throwing those messages. a lot of the amps that I see are working off the penthouse are smaller more micro style amps or class GH. For example...

Thanks, that helps out a ton! I’ll have to see if I can fish the power through that same grommet. That’s awesome that MSC came out and did that. I plan to have mine final tuned by some folks up here in Portland. You can see my work in progress on this thread. My Model 3 Audio SQ Build Log...

Nice amp setup! I'm doing almost the EXACT same thing in my Model 3 SR+ right now, using a V Eight and an M One (non-X). Any issues running off the front battery? My M one causes all sorts of errors if I run off the penthouse. Given how similar the 3/Y are, can you show any pictures of where...

It should not pet the Moss Magnuson act. If it it didn’t they could only deny claims for specific repairs.

Some great progress tonight. The Helix V Eight DSP is all hooked up and it works! I had to get the laptop in the car to make some adjustments and setup, but the intial configuration is done. I immediately noticed the sound coming out of the stock speakers is improved and clearer.. and can get...

Yeah except the amp isn’t even running when the message happens. Also I have a Helix V Eight MK2 DSP/Amp in there right now and no issues. It’s total power output is more than the M One. pretty sure it’s capacitor inrush, the M One has a fair amount of stiffening caps inside. If you look in the...

yup. Several times. Car is fine without the amp. Just too big of caps in it probably. I’m looking for a more efficient amp now. I really don’t want to do the resistor relay mod because of the parasitic draw and fire hazard.

any luck? My guess is you’ll get the same error messages I’m getting in my car. I have a Helix M one amp and it’s causing “electrical system power reduced” problems and the car won’t even drive. The helix is also around a 500-600w at one ohm.

Didn't do a ton of work tonight, pretty tired. I got the amp rack pretty much all done and ready to go. Secured the RCA on the backside of the board, and then got everything aligned and the rack hung and tightened down. It seems nice and secure now! You can see I have the wire bundles all ready...