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In case anyone wants to know whats inside the rotor The motor production video is a Mitsubishi Electric air cooled Induction Motor (IM) common in industrial usage. See the fins at the end of the rotor and on the stator casing for cooling. Stator/rotor size is bigger than the LDU so probably...

For anyone thats interested in pursuing a advanced face seal solution. Additional info + updates Discussed with more face seal manufacturers on how to handle minute leak. Learned a bit more how water pump handles this.. It isn't just a matter of a weep hole. Dynamic (while shaft is turning)...

My measurements are 55.1mm @ 3 different 120 degree angles on my Ceimin seal As @asavage notes, this is stainless steel rather than aluminum. I also don't have any expertise in interference fit. But there are many online metal interference fit tables, I'm just not experienced enough to know...

There is likely a very robust EV motor coolant seal technology that already exist. However, it is unlikely the aftermarket or DIY community can access it. But I'll post it here. Those in EU might have better luck to engage with the much more mature right to repair culture and potentially more...

Need an Induction Motor Engineer to really gain some insight on thermal degradation behavior. Here are a few things to keep in mind Less cooling requirement is EXACTLY why nearly all EV/hybrid electric motors use permanent magnet rotor in last 3 decades. Those rotors can't even be pull out of...

Here are some info for people who want to find a proper seal solution to keep rotor cooling and avoid seal leaks. If changing manifold is part of the solution, it is entire possible to get a properly design seal to handle water sealing. Basically, I believe Tesla used the wrong seal solution...

Industrial Induction Motor are often AIr Cooled BUT with fan blades Most industrial induction motors are air cooled. They have multiple sets of fan blades attached to the rotor to create air flow on the rotor and stator. And stator's housing is of course finned to increase heat exchange surface...

Using Air to Cool? Regarding cooling the rotor, maybe there is another possible option : Forced Air. Just like CPU+GPU in computers can be cooled by 2-3 methods Fan + heat sink / fins to increase heat exchanger surface area AIr jets (not in consumer computers but I think have been used in the...

An EU member posted on @NV Ray FB group their still under warranty MS's reman rev T LDU leaked and got another reman rev T. This member was wondering if Tesla "reverted" Sport LDU from -U to -T in EU due to thermal problem. EU catalog shows Base LDU is reman Rev-Q and Sport LDU is reman Rev-T...

This may not matter but the coolant inlet in diagram is for MB 250e / Rav4EV. Model S sticks straight out https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=39993#p39993 https://sites.google.com/view/teslaldu/parts#h.hzn4zhwa5v2n Bottom of LDU where inlet is also not too far from the mid aero...

To add context for others @mr_hyde came over and helped me pull the reluctor wheel, speedi-sleeve, and the rotor. My < 1k miles test of an SKF FKM seal that failed (should fail by design due to low surface speed but a couple of people said been running dry for thousands of miles) Failure...

BTW, @blodg1 solution for drilling + sleeve a tube for coolant delete (post #108 also know others that have done 10+ same way) works because there is at least 5mm+ of clearance from shoulder below circlip to the rotor shaft per my measurements in post #198. Quite a bit of space although...

I had similar ideas. Post #139 shows analysis of eliminating coolant channel through the fly over tube. I guess main purpose of that channel is just so rotor coolant channel have a return line. Not sure if much benefit for air bleed. However, if willing to do simple dremel modification of...

Maybe but not a lot of room to work with down there. I can see LDU supported on jack stands while subframe comes down. Still need to pull the axles which disassemble the hub shock/links/arms/brake calipers The 5 bolts holding LDU in subframe (front, rear, 3 on driver side right in front of...

Did a bunch of measurements while considering speedi sleeve shaft surface reconditioning and needed to figure out where the seal lips will land. Also calculated how deep of a cup is necessary for those looking to remove coolant tube and cap the seal bore. Looks like need to go about 15mm deep...

This solution might be a little extreme If the portion of the rotor shaft for the seal is cut off (I'll call it the snout, probably no balance problems being in the center of the 70lb rotor, if examine the rotor closely, all the weight drilling marks to balance the rotor is towards the outer...

Looks like the 2 halves of my reman LDU gearbox is made 4 year apart. LDU Label says T13...R1 inverter 1/2 of the case has printed T17... So I'd guess stator 1/2 of case is 13 and inverter 1/2 17. Here is the history of battling a whine in this gearbox for 7 years Got a regen whine when...

That’s great to know you have 12+6mm depth to use. Post #106 shows fairly clean bore with tube pressed out. So 2 pressed on stainless caps with RTV in the right shape would work great. I’ll reach out to Ceimin triple lip seal maker to see if they can provide stainless steel caps. They are...

Might need 13-14mm deep ( post #57 pdf )Rotor also sits on a bevel washer spring so theoretically can push out a little (< 0.5mm?) on high speed right hand motion. But yes, would be nice just to have a stainless cap in this shape where seal use to go. Small custom PTFE seal makers will make...

Pulling the LDU and maybe 3rd time is a charm :) First rebuild rusted under triple lip PTFE seal. Reman LDU rotor shaft likely had inherited compromised rust proofing in Tesla reman. 2nd rebuild leaked in 500 miles. Chose a FKM (more advanced than traditional NBR rubber) seal with 2 others...

Forgot to link a bit more explanation on relationship between seal and shaft surface https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/posts/8053198/

Problem is not just the seal. Its the worn shaft seal surface. If don't properly refinish surface (quite challenging and appears Tesla doesn't do it). Seal has no chance to last.

Forgot to mention HV SAFETY. Definitely disconnect the HV first responder loop even if most of cutting / poking around is away from the inverter. The pair of B+ B- HV cable to the LDU probably runs about 1-2 feet away from where you got the hole. === On 2nd thought, leaving the PTFE seal in...

Interesting access method! Luckily LDU HV cables run along the other (passenger) side :) I know the motivation to not remove the LDU. But couple of thoughts Not too hard with 2 floor jacks, 8' 4x4 strong wooden beam and a cheap motorcycle jack See post #91 towards the bottom "Jacking Up the...

Have had similar thoughts. I wonder if JB Weld will seal completely from minute leaks against the coolant media?

If it is down on power, then maybe Tesla loaded firmware to reduce the LDU power. Another alternative is higher temperature picked up by thermal sensor limiting the power output but I don't see how that can be instant after powering up a cold car. I'm guessing detuning LDU is similar/same as not...

Probably locale specific so you should inquire SC near you in EU. New (and reman) rev U LDU will no longer have leak problem since rotor cooling is deleted. Older rev new LDU may not last as long as early ones. I suspect once Tesla went to single lip seal for reman LDU, they may have just used...

My understanding is EV Clinic use triple lip seal. Currently I only know 1 triple lip PTFE seal supply for this LDU from small Chinese company via Aliexpress. Many DIYer worry poor quality from aliexpress seal. But from every LDU rebuild I have seen, they ALL use this seal. I can easily confirm...

My first reseal with triple lip seal + polished shaft resulted in rust under the lip interior chambers ( link ) then try to do flame spray to repair the shaft like carrepairvideo on youtube but terrible result (porous finish link and ruined chamfer link ) Finally tried SKF speedi sleeve with...

Seen EV Clinic's videos on LDU repair. They do really good process to recondition the rotor shaft (looks like they chrome plate -> polish) Tesla reman doesn't seem to recondition the shaft surface based on inspecting my reman LDU. PTFE seal and shaft surface are both key factors in a good seal...

Parking brake plugs removal + install is a PITA. Wrong angle and hard to get leverage on the driver side red locking clip. During reinstall, no matter how hard I squeeze the plug could lock one of the clips so I just gave up haha. uninstall link1 reinstall link2

Have always thought that clip was at risk during unclip. I use 1 thin and 1 thicker flat head screwdrive to wiggle out sensor without unclipping. Need to work gently to avoid damaging the o-ring on the sensor that seals against the hole.

Probably. I was able to fix mine ~3 years ago for $0 and still going strong. https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/0-repair-for-failing-window-regulator.223110/

I've collected info on few LDUs, inconclusive on when seal is changed and there seems to multiple version of the seal. Adding the complexity of Toyota and Mercedes using the LDU (slightly different mechanically with a parking pawl inside the gearbox) and may have old stock inventory and/or...

I think no rotor cooling leak improvement reversing the flow. Any coolant in that area will leak if seal/shaft surface is not ideal. Reverse flow likely also cause poor rotor cooling because rotor coolant channel split on the normally output side is on top of the heat exchanger. Likely a less...

Personal trials and tribulations aside, @wk057 post #492 on Tesla moving towards nearly impossible to cost effectively service HV battery and nearly disposable cars is a double whammy on top of already challenging LiOn battery issues. Existing Lithium Ion has numerous concerns : Require...

For temp sensor, I think easiest is to put hole in end plate and point IR right at the end of the rotor. Can read after stopping or more advanced install for live reading. Ideally do it before any cooling mod for reference and after. If experienced with oil tipped slow drilling Al to avoid...

Intersting concern. I guess a more destructive cutting off most of manifold feed tube and cap the opening would be a solution. A random non practical thought is forced air cooling rather than coolant through the existing hallow rotor shaft (need manifold channel mod + air seal + pump design...

Hope your 6th is recent and got rev U that eliminated the problematic leaky rotor cooling. Of course will have to wait for longevity data on the hotter running rotor. But yeah. What an expensive mess. If assume 250k LDU replacements (probably more counting % LDU cars and # of swaps, I’m on #3...

Brain storming with @mr_hyde and consulted with @asavage with various coolant delete bypass modification to find something simple to make and minimal existing part destruction. Here is a proposal Current coolant channel is inlet -> Y split to stator and rotor. passage is much bigger towards...

BTW, when I had the car(HV) disabled for 2-3 months during LDU rebuild. HVIL failed after reassembly + driving the car a few times in a week + 1 hand car wash. Eventually found was just corrosion on HV plugs for DCDC1. One of the HV devices connector contacts must have gathered some corrosion...

Mine looked new too and connectors looked fine but connectors contacts were the failure point. It’s a high moisture area. Windshield water runoff has a drain dump just behind DCDC1 (then drips onto fuse cover) and wheel liner has big hole at upper control arm to spray water inwards and...

057 has your exact BMB shown. Sticker on back says Rev1.5. But 057 not around anymore. https://057tech.com/products/teslaoem/part_1050951-00-A Your C27 looks like it might have a crack in it. SMD (Surface Mount Devices) caps usually fail with such minute cracks and best seen under microscope.

Since you reported moisture in the pack ( post ) Check BMBs carefully with magnifying glass. @mr_hyde HV pack had 4 corroded BMBs towards front of pack (inspected all 16). Only 1 corroded BMB had 1 voltage sensor circuit completely fail and triggered F107 ( post ) But the other 3 corroded BMBs...

If the voltage sensor wire fell off, imbalance would be much higher than 35mV. Can you clarify? Maybe 96mV imbalance force trigger f107 but this is only a guess. There is also a BMS reset button in service mode on MCU. Don't know what that does. But I guess BMS must keep some history which...

Sounds like you bent/flatten the 1/2" OD tube slightly after install to provide more clearance?

Any idea how much gap between the rotor shaft and the sleeved in 1/2" OD Aluminum Everbilt tubing + JB Weld? Not very much space in that gap and the shaft can push outward slightly with the bevel washer spring on the outer rotor bearing. Another alternative idea is to cap the end of manifold...

Reasonable guess. There aren't much post mortem analysis on packs that have bricks down multiple 10s of mV. I'm battling similar issue but all 6 bricks of 2 frontal modules are down which strongly suggest BMB board issue ( link ). No amount of rebalancing effort helped. Did see a 4mV improvement...

Could be 3 possibilities - short cell in that brick - corrosion on BMB board in module 4 - detaching voltage sensor wire on that brick But can't know without opening up the battery pack which require handling deadly dangerous HV pack. Since in UK, might try to sneak a peek at the fuse cover...

Nice work. A few related notes @mr_hyde nicked his module 12 coolant hose when cutting open the lid so definitely pressure test coolant channel before reassembly. @mr_hyde and I wondered if the corroded BMB capacitor is too close to the plastic tray resulting in natural condensation. @mr_hyde...