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No issues but i run 5mm spacers all around when i have those konigs on. It was recommended to avoid any possible rubbing.

Happened to me twice, the second timeI complained that these tires suck azz and they waived the labor fee. Ended up charging me only 350.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but i believe you want a square setup on AWD vehicles. You may want to choose 1 spacer width for all 4 wheels.

@MountainPass you're the best thank you and your team! All I had to do was contact MPP and they took care of the rest. Good group of folks over there for sure.

@gearchruncher I just seen this on my mpp corkscrew fuca Is this what you ran into?

Clean run nice job, I was also impressed with the lack of interior rattles.

This is basically my setup, the teeth dig into the underside of the puck and everything is fine. (just center it and make sure it doesn't move on the first few pumps) I do my own rotations so I've had the whole side of the car jacked with this NP.

My saddle is much smaller than my puck, I just center it as best I can then lift. Haven't had any issues. The pucks are supposed to fit in the saddle?

Just buy everything on the MPP website, you'll be fast AF. The biggest difference you'll feel is the weight of the car.

If she pulls in instead of backing in, you'll both have the same space in the center of the garage.

ill give this a try

glad you're bringing up old *sugar* so i can repeat myself. It was the 'feeling' i got at the time.

@jackmott Yea, after almost a year of driving that warped feeling was due to uneven pad wear. I had a SC check it out and its basically a symptom of light brake usage, not light as in barely ever i mean light as in amount of force when actually used. Every couple months i have to bed the brakes...

Ok this only works for people who drive above speed limit. I try to carry my car's momentum up hills to reduce the amount of juice used to get up that hill. from 85 to 75 for example. Then i gently get back up to speed and do the same thing downhill but while keeping a bit of regen green bar...

LoL stop joking. If you accelerate up n down hills and constantly killing your momentum you're likely driving at 300wh/mi+

About the same, 275-285wh/mi on a 45-50m commute at 80mph. Take advantage of the downhills to regain some energy.

I'd say 13k total repair bill, they'll only total it if they are afraid of the hidden damage behind the wheel. The wheel damage + everything behind it could be trashed. lets hope nothing touched your motor cuz that's like 10k by itself.

Smash that pedal and watch his pistons fly through his hood in your rear camera.

35mm, this is the pic I used to place my order 18x9.5B

how about safety? wider tires = more grip = better braking i wish i had my 265's on the day i got into my wreck, few inches woulda saved me a lot of headache.

I used safelite and their price was about $780, they do not racal camera's on Tesla's. I looked up a youtube video and found you actually do it yourself, whatever $600 they're trying to charge you is wrong and might be lawsuit worthy.

Correct but it has its downsides. Uneven pad wear from light usage: I've been bedding my pads about once per month to get rid of that annoying uneven wear wobble.

I have 265/40/18 with 5mm spacer to avoid any rubbing. the speedo is about 5% off, shows 100mph but you're only doing 95ish

this man uses 100% of his brain!

Yea keep them all the same or you won't be able to do rotation. If for looks just get big spacers in the rear to give it the stance you're after.

Ikon is just for looks, no data to show any improvements. I can tell you for a fact Ikon lips increase drag so it will reduce your total range. UP has a lot of data to show what it improves. Personally I think Ikon looks better.

The Back end and corners of the lip are held up by screws/fasteners but the top-front sags a bit away from the bottom of the bumper. This is probably the gap you're speaking of, the tape will be needed to close that gap. I used the tape + some black silicone caulk to seal the gap even further...

Any other month I'd just get it replaced, Uncle Sam got me BROKE for April.

Sigh... I keep running into replacement scenario's with these tires but I just want them GONE. They're unnecessarily expensive and too narrow for the performance models. Thanks for the replies.

Not to steal the thread but since the tire guys are already here... Has anyone dealt with a bubble on the sidewall of the OEM 20" Pzero's? here's a pic... PSI has not been affected.

AND you got the good one that uses original mounting holes. They discontinued it right after I bought mine, no idea why cuz its nearly perfect.

KBB trade in 56k and private party 60k... Phew... Began to think my phat down-payment worked against me.

I just checked my car out on Carvana '21 M3P 24k miles Best: 40.9k I have ~34k left to pay. Does this mean I get a 40.9k check and they take over the lease or I have to pay my car off and I'm left with my d!ick in my hand?

Is the rotor wobble still there after the spacer+wheel is attached? I've done 10mm spacers with no issues (bolt removed) June 21 build.

I remember something about the inverter not being covered under the battery warranty. I just looked it up and found this thread

I've read a few posts here about inverter failure and Tesla not covering it. Maybe now those Tesla owners can recover some of their repair expenses.

pics!

I've ran into this. it does this on bumpy surfaces. A few times now, during regen braking, the regen gets reduced during a bumpy segment of the road. This forces me to apply the brakes, only noticed it at lower speeds (under 20mph). Not sure if a bug or not. Also, i've noticed that 'Chill'...

you need a slightly wider spacer. if its rubbing on turns then its because of the tire sidewall deflection. Edit: My konigs are 9.5's and i use a 10mm spacer for them, no need to move the speed sensor.

Sucks but at least you won't be driving around in a repaired Tesla. Getting another one?

fair enough oh sheit, i actually have one of those! Gunna see what i can do, thanks!

I need MPP decals :( Hey @SK360 did you absolutely have to remove the arms to install the compression rod inserts?

Do you mean heavy acceleration? like a 0-60 push? This happens with mine when the battery is below/above ideal temps for that type of performance. Its not crazy loud but its noticeable, I can't compare to other models though. If its happening with normal driving then that doesn't seem right.

Do the low pro's still fit after a 1.2" drop with puck installed?

Has anyone tried to just caulk the gaps? Seems like it could be a solid easy fix, prob annoying to the SC if you ever have to replace your glass panels tho.

yea thats the first i've seen. I think your best bet, besides calling SC, is to roll up to a SC and just ask what could be causing it. At a minimum they'll let you know if they've seen it before.

Road salts corroding the outer edge maybe? 6200 miles (10k km) in 4 years also tells me the car may be sitting untouched for long periods of time.

What mileage are you at now compared to the first photo in 2018?

Damn 315's, haven't come across that setup yet. At what point do the fenders need modding?

Its tough cuz the ideal end-game for M3P is going to be 305's on 19" wheels with BBK and motor cooling mods. Will take some time to get there so you're doing it right.