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You could try putting some painters tape over the gap(s) and see if that reduces the cabin noise on the highway.

Surprised nobody has mentioned altitude. Not sure where OP is, but TPMS will read higher at higher altitude. In Denver my TPMS read about 40 when my gauges read about 37. This is normal because the way they read the pressure is different. One takes into account the atmospheric pressure and one...

Might’ve been cooling the battery pack after charging. Especially if you charged to 100%. Full battery + heat = no bueno.

Unfortunately no.

Seems seems to be a lot less waking for me after 2024.8.7.

I think I jinxed it. Car woke up 3x in past two hours for no apparent reason. Each waking period is usually 10-12 min.

I recently looked at my alerts and figured out that I was getting UI_a112 USB Device Malfunction error pretty much every time my car was waking up on its own. I tried deleting dashcam clips and formatting USB drive but that didn’t make a difference. Two days ago I decided to just remove the...

My experience is that it knows when you’re turning into a turn only lane and doesn’t cancel the signal in those cases. I think it sees the turn arrows marked on the road (they’re displayed in the visualization). This has been my experience pretty consistently.

You can definitely just drive and it will warm up on its own. No advantage in preconditioning the battery if it’s not plugged in, besides making the cabin comfortable.

My car is still waking several times a day. It definitely seems to be related to how close my phone is to the car. Not all the time, but a lot of the time. I was out for 8 hours today (took my wife’s car) and the car slept the entire time. Right when I got home and walked past my car it woke up...

That’s the famous axle click. Service can take care of it. Mine was covered under warranty.

Totally normal. It’s the greenhouse effect. A car can easily reach 100F+ in the sun even if it’s 60F out. Yesterday my cabin was 128F after sitting in the sun for a few hours and it was 63F outside. I would leave Cabin Overheat off and get a windshield visor. The windshield isn’t tinted and lets...

A/C isn’t only for cooling. It’s for drying aka conditioning the air. If the cabin air is above a certain moisture point, it will run the A/C, even when heating.

Look up the thread “What is this high pitch cricket like noise?”

I have also noticed my 2021 MY wakes up way more often since a couple updates back. I use Tessie but it has never caused issues. The car sometimes wakes up multiple times in a day, usually for about 10-20 mins, and sometimes doesn’t wake up at all for a day. It seems to *maybe* be better after...

Does this mean Tessie actually does affect the car’s sleep/wake behavior?

Right. It doesn’t actually “prevent” drain, it just restores it when it crosses a certain threshold.

The battery is likely not actually draining. Often when parked the battery will recalibrate/recalculate its capacity after some time and it will be a little higher or lower, often depending on outside temp. Wouldn’t worry about it. I agree that the blurb on the energy screen about keeping the...

Oh, I misunderstood. I thought the car was actually charging. He meant just pulling from AC. Correct - have to unplug.

Click “stop charging” in the app or lower the charge limit a bit.

It says it in the app. Something like “warming the battery for optimum performance”. It used to just have the three bacon strips but now it says it explicitly.

I would use A Better Route Planner and it should give you a pretty accurate estimate.

Unless you have a really short commute, the energy will not be wasted. Warmer battery will give you more regen and you will make up that lost range with increased driving efficiency. If you like the cabin warm, just precondition and don’t worry about it.

I totally agree. I don’t know what the downside would be to them offering standard mode for cars with boost. Probably the reason I never seriously considered it either.

And they were still on this morning?

The manual climate controls are pretty self explanatory. I used to futz with manual a lot but I find Auto works perfectly and takes all the guesswork out. FYI, the AC is the most critical part of defogging since it’s what dehumidifies the air. If you’re too warm, lower the temp.

My replacements were remanufactured drive units. I would definitely take them up on the replacement.

Definitely not a day. Maybe 30 minutes until the battery was warmed enough to where could charge at fully speed.

For anyone wondering, my second replacement (March 2022) remains chirp free.

How were you able to open the door if the windows were stuck all the way up?

In the charging graphs (as well as the exported CSVs) only the charge rate drops out, but the power, current, and the voltage all remain consistent during those ‘dropouts’. I just updated to Next Gen Connectivity so I’ll see if that clears anything up.

Hi James. Love the app. In the last month or so, it appears via the Tessie app that my car goes to sleep shortly after a drive (normal), then it wakes back up for 10-20 mins or so, and then goes back to sleep. Sometimes after the drive it says the car goes to sleep within 2-3 minutes (doesn't...

If Tronguy’s explanation is not enough for you to abandon this setup, I’m not sure you’re truly looking for feedback here. Just because others have gotten it to work doesn’t mean it’s safe.

Message service and tell them you’d like mobile service, since many others have had this fixed via mobile. A lot of times mobile isn’t available in the app and service will change it once they read the ticket.

Off-Road assist also makes the accelerator pedal less sensitive, like Chill Mode. And I’m pretty sure it forces 50/50 front/back motor distribution which also applies to regen. This is the best way to drive in snowy and icy conditions, imo.

My late 2021 Model Y has had some abnormal sleep/wake behavior the last couple weeks. I usually take two or three 15-20 minute drives per day. Typically after a drive the car will go to sleep after about 10 minutes and sleep until I wake it up with the app or unlocking. Lately, I’d say a little...

My MY (2021) does have USS.

Update: I called Tesla and they said it looks like my update didn’t complete for whatever reason. They told me to open a service ticket and they should be able to push me a new update. Still waiting on that. Not concerned. Like others have mentioned, it’s possible they pulled a version of the...

Basically that. Watched in my app as the update got to 100% (downloading) and stayed there for about ten minutes. Then the progress bar disappeared and the app went back to how it always looks. Didn’t get the notification to install it. Did the scroll wheel reset and no luck. Says “software up...

Tap on the exterior temp and have it briefly display the interior temp for 2-3 seconds, then back to exterior. Sometimes I want the cabin warmer/colder, but I’m not sure what to set it at because I’m not sure what the interior temp is. It can feel a lot warmer than it actually is if you’re...

Put ~50/50 water/vinegar in a spray bottle and mist the area. Vinegar will help kill bacteria as well as deodorize.

It would come from the power source, not the battery. If it's charging and preconditioning at the same time and needs more power than the source can provide, the remainder needed for preconditioning would come from the battery. Not sure about the idle fees.

Yes, you have two options to control the seat heaters and steering wheel heater without turning the climate on. You can either access them from the app menu (three dots) and press the icons to your desired settings. If you prefer to have them more accessible you can hold and drag from that menu...

Why don’t you try it?

Or if the battery is cold.

Interesting. I recently had a 2018 Model 3 Dual Motor loaner and the regen was much weaker than my 2021 MY.

If I'm on the highway or bigger four-lane road going 55+ mph and the light turns yellow at just the right time, it often requires some brake pedal input. Regen just doesn't decelerate you as quickly when you're going fast vs going like 25 mph. Besides that, it's usually some type of misjudgment...

You'll be fine with the charging speed. Like the first response said, you will want to upgrade the receptacle to something like the Hubbell HBL9430A. A Leviton (what's most likely there now) is fine for a dryer since it's not a continuous load. It's a gamble for EV charging though.

Another poster in this thread did pretty significant testing on his own and found that when he turned left (or right, can’t remember), like on an on-ramp or off-ramp, the sound immediately disappeared. This might support the oil theory since it might slosh to one side during the turn.

Could the 10-30 be repurposed into a 14-30 by using the old neutral for the new ground? The car doesn't need a neutral for charging. Perhaps if the receptacle is labeled "no neutral"? Then it would effectively be the same as a 14-30, with the safety of a ground.