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I am kind of back and forth between the 275/35R19 and 285/35R19 RE71RS. For the latter, I am looking at the much more limited 11” wheel options that are all generally heavier or more expensive than something like the Konig 19x10.5s. If you were hypothetically stuck with a 10.5” wheel, would you...

Just to be clear, your understanding is still that 295s and 305s would be generally faster—even if [by a tenth]—on a 10.5” wheel than a 275? @MasterC17 Given your experiences over the last few years, and your own comments on the subject, I’m hopeful you can find the time—and desire—to chime...

I remember being annoyed that Boosted LRs were “almost” as fast as Ps above about 60-70mph. Then I realized the parlor trick is in the 0-80 range, and above that quickly approaches major consequences. I’m absolutely okay with some clever mods to mostly improve 0-60, with only moderate gains in...

Also, @dsgerbc , you mentioned camber and other adjustments. It’s certainly possible that a wider tire on the same wheel does require either a camber or pressure tweak to maintain the inherent performance gains of that wider tire! So, indeed, there are missing data in our quest for “the best...

That’s a fair point! I am currently looking at my own acknowledged bias against the “…well we’ve always done it this way…” philosophy. You might be on to something… maybe “less than ideal” is still “better than a 275” for us?

Sorry for the confusion. I was just acknowledging that if someone was seeing a lot of edge rollover because their wheels weren’t wide enough to properly support the tire at idea pressures, they might try to compensate with higher pressures which would unintentionally negate the benefits of the...

The article I referenced actually was the 2022 test, which indeed showed the 225s were fastest with the available rim width. As mentioned, they assessed the 245 would have been fastest if they could have mounted it on a 17x10 wheel on the test vehicles. That is what I highlighted with the...

Thanks for the notes! I certainly have no question that overall, wider is better for ultimate grip! Still, this Tire Rack test, even if less than perfect (but still better than 99% of internet anecdotes), is far from the only example asserting that best traction requires a sufficiently-wide...

I absolutely understand this reality, never contradicted it, and am not sure why this is the singular focus of all the responses… Anyone have actual inputs on my bolded question above?

(Tracking! I didn’t specifically say it, but yes my assumption is one runs proportionally-lower pressures with the wider tires. I alluded to it in the earlier comments that if one runs a wider tire, but has to bump up pressures to compensate for an under-supported sidewall (assuming appropriate...

Oops. I meant total TTSA per pound! The model 3 is about 40-45% heavier, inherently requiring more rubber in the ground to avoid overwhelming the tires. Separately, the greater power-to-weight of the Model 3 puts even more stress on the rubber, potentially justifying even more TTSA without...

We have all seen the Tire Rack width test (discussed in this thread). @MasterC17 ’s observations posted in his 200tw tire assessment (linked below) corroborated Tire Rack’s, where he assessed a 275 was best for a 10.5 and, as an example, a 255 would likely perform better in a 9.5 than a 275...

I, too, quickly found the extra 90-120 minutes a month tweaking alignments back and forth was not worth the modest (~20%…?) loss in tire life running 3+ degrees of front camber (and ~2.5 out back). In 100k miles I might have to buy 5 sets instead of 4, but in that same time I’d also spend dozens...

Btw, is this a 315/35R18 (26.7”) or 315/30R18 (25.4”)? And confirm you mean the 18x11+40 wheels, using 15mm front spacers?

This is what a Marketing Department is for. There is some perfect price where the die-hard top-of-the-line buyers will feel good paying (I.e. those who would pay $100k for an M3Comp over a 60k 335), but also low enough that the volume justifies the R&D. For the LR vs P, they basically...

Oh, I’m tracking the real-world numbers very wildly, but was just looking at it through the lens of advertised numbers as one means to determine if it actually has ~50 more Hp!

Isn’t the current M3P officially advertised at something like 450hp?

Honestly I feel like most of the optimism about its specs come from our shared desire to continue championing EVs. I find myself rooting for Elon’s underdog vision than EVs can be more than simply quirky around-town vehicles (but even drag kings and cone crushers). I was cross-shopping M3s...

The huge Tesla devaluations were a perfect storm of global supply chain issues followed by a massive ramp of of production capacity AND a deliberate sacrifice of per-vehicle profit to increase volume as other competitors came on line. Other new vehicles will experience part of that after...

There was a time Dodge sold an SRT-10 Ram pickup truck where the highlight was the “Viper’s V10!” It was barely faster than the Dodge Neon SRT-4, but they catered to very different markets! Even now, a BMW X5M, M7, and M3 are all “M” cars, but only have a modest overlap in shoppers. I think...

Two things: 1) The current US-spec battery, with new motors and inverters plus some aggressive launch programming, is absolutely capable of propelling an M3L to close to 2.5s 0-60mph. Arguing this point doesn’t me we necessarily believe Tesla will do it. 2) Is it possible that “not a Plaid”...

You’ve grossly misunderstood, or misrepresented, his post… He said high SOC and Temps will improve 40-60 by about 0.1. This doesn’t disagree with our assertion that the flat torque from 5-40 is artificially limited. Thus, Tesla could absolutely increase torque (power) output below 40mph...

It’s limiting peak power draw, not “performance” overall, as described in several different ways, including the below.

The inverters and motors are likely capable of shaving a couple tenths off through raw torque from 5-35. The battery is also likely capable of making up a tenth from 45-60 by maintaining peak HP a bit longer, if the new motors can hang. We’re saying they could probably make up an additional...

I am sure they were just trying to beat out the competition without snapping axles. However, there are no major hurdles keeping them from dropping a few extra tenths off the launch, especially with 275 summer tires out back.

There is space in the launch to cut a few tenths off the 0-60, and there is a little bit of space above ~45mph if the motors (efficiency / back-EMF) and inverters (efficiency/robustness) are up to it. There is a lot of space approaching and above 100mph.

Sounds like a used MSLR is in your future……..

Unfortunately, the current batteries don’t have a lot more to give without being at high SOC and warm, I don’t expect the M3L to be the next leap in mass-produced battery tech, so being able to preheat without S3XY buttons or navigation tricks would be the next best thing :P.

I wouldn’t mind a little more aggressive 0-5mph to drop the 60’ down to maybe 1.5-1.6s. When I am just having fun around my commute, I usually just roll on the throttle. If it takes a 2-second brake hold to get those last few tenths out of the launch, that would be fine with me. I do hope...

Yeah it seems with aftermarket rotors, about a +33-35 offset is required to avoid the barrel rubbing on the knuckle (notwithstanding the tire itself). Therefore, with an additional ~19mm of material I would require a +15 offset at minimum, with maybe a bit of knuckle grinding for barrel...

Yeah, I am not necessarily concerned about PAX standings. I almost certainly won’t be able to race consistently enough to actually build a season’s worth of points in one club, and not all clubs class the same (due to timing conflicts, I raced 1-2 events each across 4 different clubs last...

@MasterC17 @Mash @dsgerbc I probably wont be able to autoX this season (having a baby, moving across the country, and starting a new job this spring and through the summer), so I am getting my lists ready for winter upgrades… At what point are we going overboard on width? I was originally...

I experienced this, and ended up replacing my LCAs and Compression Rods after 25k miles. I still like the road feel with the spherical bearings, though, so it will just become an annual wear item. Hopefully I don’t booger up pressing them!

That’s a pretty bad angle for a black wheel, looking up at the shaded wheel with the bright sky and illuminated hood behind it. However, some simple picture corrections can get you a bit closer :) . That said, great looking vehicles!

Fortunately, our vehicles will accelerate as well on all-seasons as with summer tires.

Unfortunately, even 64mm part of the hub is still a good 15mm past the rotor hat. He would need thicker, studded spacers (or thicker spacers and longer hubs).

I’d expect a shop would probably charge you an easy $500 or more to do this properly, mostly because it would take a relatively large machine to bore the center out, not because it’s technically difficult. I can’t say I wouldn’t just break out the die grinder, but that also isn’t the right...

Unfortunately, this isn’t how vehicle acceleration works. See my post before yours.

That’s probably because I’m the only Mensan with a physics degree willing to argue with you.

Given a 0-35 ratio (let’s call this “1st gear”) is mathematically 4 times larger than a 0-140 ratio (let’s call this 4th gear), such a vehicle will accelerate 1/4 as fast in 4th gear as in 1st gear. Therefore, it’s also a FACT that any vehicle with a multi-speed transmission will see also...

Unfortunately, that’s incorrect. Horsepower is a great representation of total acceleration potential, but it does not represent instantaneous acceleration. At any given speed, the acceleration of the vehicle is exactly proportional to wheel torque minus various parasitic losses.

Both graphs literally show torque at the wheels. Wheel torque is exactly proportional to motive force on the vehicle. The graphs exactly support my claim. If shifting gears allowed an ICE vehicle to maintain constant motive force as speed increased, then it would accelerate several times...

(moderator note) Moved from the Model 3 Performance speculation thread ==================================== Just to be clear, ICE cars don’t at all maintain a constant motive force just because they can shift “back to peak HP.” You’ll see in both scenarios the vehicles’ available wheel...

Outside of a couple countries there don’t seem to be too many limits on aftermarket performance upgrades that don’t affect noise or emissions. Regardless of Motorsport interest, many of us gearheads are very comfortable sorting out our own wheels, tires, brakes, and suspension, but there are...

Sorry, not asking about tire wear, just curious how you are seeing close to 2 degrees of front camber on factory arms :) .

You are close to 2 degrees front camber with factory arms? Please post pics!

Especially with M3LR (or SR) brakes, +22 offset will stick out about a quarter inch outside the top of the fender if running anything larger than a stretched 245/45R18 without significantly increasing negative camber.

The LR rotors have thicker hats which change offset by -4mm. My current aftermarket rotors are 5mm thicker than stock. And funny enough, I suppose one man’s “cartoonishly aggressive” is another’s “oh, they are still there” because I barely notice mine :P .

Down around 1.4” I believe! I have had to play with the drop a bit to mitigate rubbing here and there. I’d I think I have seen that a 275 on a +35 would be fine on an M3P without camber mods, though might have more issues on aftermarket rotors or LR brakes. Some quick triangle math says an...

The Uberturbines are a +35 offset :) . Of note, camber also plays a big role; more camber from lowering or especially from aftermarket parts also changes relative “flush” fitment. Here is a “+17” on the front of my M3P with 275s and 3.2 degrees of camber ;) .